Next Step....

probably a bubble tip they aren't exactly what I'd call hardy but are probably the hardiest clown host that I know of. They however will not do well if there are lots of nitrates and other polutants in your tank. I would strongly encourage you to remove your crushed coral and make sure that you have enough light/skimming to keep them healthy. I don't think that your strip light would be strong enough I'd go with halides and vho acintic.You also really don't need to add a lot of live sand if your tank is cycled you can use the crushed coral to seed your sand with the needed bacteria. Also the little infaunal critters will come off of your live rock so you really don't need to buy live sand. You could also maybe trade one of your s.w. friends a cup or two of sand and that will increase your bio-diversity. I don't know what anyone elses opinion is but, I like to get my live rock from a bunch of different sources because it will really add to your bio-diversity.
hth
chris
 
Hey I appreciate everyone's help and feel much better that my tank will be a healthier environment when it comes time to stock.

As for the lighting, currently I have 2 - 18" bulbs, would the lights you recommend go in the same hood or would I need a whole new fixture?

I know this is basic stuff but hey, I'm new and there is a boatload of info out there it can be pretty confusing and overwhelming.

BC
 
Metal hallide and VHO (very high output) bulbs require a different ballast than the NO (normal output) setup you have now.

You've had good questions, and want to do the best thing for your critters. No one here will criticize that!
 
Understand we do not all agree on everything. There are different ways to accomplish a nice tank.

My opinions: you do not need MH lights for a fish tank with anemone. They are needed for some corals and clams. IF you would ever keep them than MH is the way to go. For the set up you have said you want - PC will work fine - check out here to see if it fits your buget www.marineandreef.com I like the dual strip aqualights.

As to the sand. DSB is in my opinion the way to go. However I still have a very good tank with all Crushed Coral(CC) and and UGF with LR. I also have one with CC and sand mixed - mostly sand.

For anemones - they need a tank that is fairly stable - that usually means one that is 6 - 12 months or older. The condy you want can be keep with clarkii clowns.

Ray
 
6-12 months may be better for me, that way while my tank stabilizes i can save up for the necessary lighting.

Last night I put in the first live rock....we're on our way....


The damsel, Scott Java Damsel, is the only fish in the tank right now, the cycle should be nearly complete, ph was a little low a couple of days ago and the nitrates a little high. Anyway, this fish doesn't move it just sets in the return surge from the HOB filter. I don't know if its "lonely & bored" or stressed....it does feed well....any ideas?

Gracias
 
Originally posted by BobbyC
6-12 months may be better for me, that way while my tank stabilizes i can save up for the necessary lighting.

Last night I put in the first live rock....we're on our way....


The damsel, Scott Java Damsel, is the only fish in the tank right now, the cycle should be nearly complete, ph was a little low a couple of days ago and the nitrates a little high. Anyway, this fish doesn't move it just sets in the return surge from the HOB filter. I don't know if its "lonely & bored" or stressed....it does feed well....any ideas?

Gracias

The Damsel is stresssed out, maybe from a number of things. Fish should not be in tanks untill cycle is complete. It is very hard on their health. It sounds like it is a bare tank until you put a piece of LR in last night. Fish need hiding/sleeping places that they feel secure in. Your tank does not provide that.

Ray
 
I don't doubt that the fish is stressed, the impression I got from my lfs was that the normal way to cycle a tank was with a few inexpensive fish. Had I done more research I likely would have done it all different. Live and learn... The tank actually has some decent places to hide in the artificial deco but this guy prefers to stay up about 1-2 inches below the surface and in the back.
Hopefully he'll make it through.

Anyway, I appreciate all the help.
 
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