nitrAte
- Thread starter LtHorn
- Start date
nitrate itself isn't harmful, people just use it as a guide to say when the other chemicals like pheromones that we cant test for are getting too high. the rule of thumb (or so I've heard) is to keep nitrates below 20ppm, but if you have a messy tank, such as a carnivore tank, then letting it go to 50 shouldn't be a problem.
nothing really fends it off (except waterchanges) id not worry about Nitrates themselves, just the fact that when they are high, its time to do a waterchange because of all the other stuff that is in the tank
nothing really fends it off (except waterchanges) id not worry about Nitrates themselves, just the fact that when they are high, its time to do a waterchange because of all the other stuff that is in the tank
Lobo is correct, nitrate itself is not toxic, but it should still be kept under 20 because it is a good indicator of DOS (Dissolved Organic Compounds) and they are toxic. He is also right in that DOC’s can not be tested for and the only way to get rid of them is through water changes. However, I disagree with the thinking that because it might be a carnivore tank, letting it go to 50 shouldn't be a problem …IMO that is a problem. Nor should a spike in the Nitrate be your indication to do water changes, you should be doing weekly 30% water changes regardless. IMO a carnivore tank should have the same readings as a non-carnivore tank. A spike in Nitrates means something is off and needs to be fixed. Maybe you are feeing too much and there is left over food rotting in the tank…but with weekly water changes, good gravel vacs and appropriate feedings you shouldn’t be having high nitrate spikes. I would reduce feedings and increase water changes for awhile till things get back down to normal and see if that doesn’t improve things.
ok, im currently getting rid of an ick infestation, so it sounds like a really good reason to do a water change. and a thurough vacing. hopefully my fish will enjoy the good water.
i have a quick question about chlor-out. when doing a water change i was told to just make sure the tank temp, and the fresh water temp are the same (duh) and add the recomended drops and pour it in the tank. do i have to wait for the chlor-out to work? or is it instant?
LT
i have a quick question about chlor-out. when doing a water change i was told to just make sure the tank temp, and the fresh water temp are the same (duh) and add the recomended drops and pour it in the tank. do i have to wait for the chlor-out to work? or is it instant?
LT
It should be instant, I tend to swish it about and then put it into the tank. I don't know much about chlor-out, but my recommendations for de-chlorinator are Amquil+ and Prime. They neutralize the negative effects of ammonia on the fish without preventing the good bacteria in your tank from utilizing it, as some other de-chlorinators are said to do.
you got me on everything, im showing my limited experience of only 2 years
but my point with the carnivor tank is that it is possible (not likely otherwise we would have heard by now) that the fish's eating habbits are nasty enough that 30% waterchanges every week would not be able to keep the nitrates below 20, as long as you can keep them STABLE this is ok, stablilty is the key as spikes in anything really is not good
but my point with the carnivor tank is that it is possible (not likely otherwise we would have heard by now) that the fish's eating habbits are nasty enough that 30% waterchanges every week would not be able to keep the nitrates below 20, as long as you can keep them STABLE this is ok, stablilty is the key as spikes in anything really is not good
Id like to clarify that nitrates ARE toxic at certain levels. Steady levels of 20, 40, 60 ppm are not that bad If we are talking nitrate as the only factor(DOC asside), however in a theoretical tank that has low DOC and otherwise perfect water, with say 200ppm nitrate, that would definatly harm your fish over time. Another factor in doing waterchanges is the minerals and such that become depleted over time. They need to be replaced to maintain fish health.