No problem. Either that or you could try dwarf hairgrass... but that stuff is so difficult and weird. It's amazing if you have proper lighting and feed it enough. It carpets beautifully. What substrate will you be using?
Nitrogen Cycle Help
- Thread starter jimmyzz
- Start date
Byron Amazonas
AC Members
The substrate foreground plant in the photo I posted here is the true pygmy chain sword, Helanthium tenellum [formerly Echinodorus tenellus, under which name it still may be seen], and mixed in but invisible in the photo is the micro sword Lilaeopsis brasiliensis. The former is easy to cultivate, you can see the full tank from just a half dozen plants over 5-6 months. The microsword is not always easy, mine grows but very slowly, as it requires higher light and thus more nutrients.
This is the problem with most of the "carpet" type plants. If the pygmy chain sword is suitable, that is your best bet. I also have some dwarf Sagittaria (S. subulata) in there, it grows much taller, close to the surface.
Byron.
I think I will wait on trying the Dwarf Hairgrass, as this is the first planted Ive ever had. And I dont want to get too ahead of myself. I was actually thinking about some Dwarf Sag as well. With regards to the substrate I have Eco Complete http://www.petco.com/product/111998/Eco-Complete-Planted-Black-Aquarium-Substrate.aspx
I am in the process of purchasing some Dwarf Sag from a member here. We will see how that goes. I may have to look into the Pygmy chain sword as well. Provided I can procure any. Like I said, right now I am only rocking a 24" Aqueon Floramax (17w) light. I have a Fennix Fugeray Planted + on the way. So that should help with future plant choices.
Byron Amazonas
AC Members
The Dwarf Sag is rather a mis-nomer as it often grows larger. Here is an excerpt [next 3 paragraphs] from a profile of this species I wrote a couple years back that may help.
In appearance, this plant bears a close resemblance to the narrow-leaf form of another plant in the same family, the pygmy chain sword (Helanthium tenellum), and in the aquarium the two can easily be confused. The growth habits of both can be influenced by conditions in the aquarium such as light, nutrients, and in the case of Sagittaria in particular the density of the planting. In the writer's (Byron) aquarium containing both species, they appear identical with the only difference being the greater height of S. subulata.
The common name "Dwarf" may be somewhat misleading. The plant will normally attain 10-15cm (4-6 inches) in height; planted very close together, the leaves will be much taller, up to 60cm (24 inches) according to Kasselmann (2003) and others, some of whom also mention age and light as factors affecting the plant's height. The writer (Byron) has this plant easily attaining 12-15 inches when thickly planted under moderate light.
Moderate light is sufficient, but the plant does require good nutrients, especially iron but this must be balanced with the other nutrients either in the substrate or added to the water. A small-grain substrate (sand or fine gravel) is best, and this plant once settled will rapidly spread via runners in the same manner as the dwarf chain swords and Vallisneria species. It may send an inflorescence to the surface and flower, but flowering is more likely to occur with emersed growth.
BTW, the substrate in the tank in my photo is Flourite. I tore that tank down last February and replaced the Flourite with play sand, and now the plants are even thicker.
On the light, the Aqueon I found to be insufficient light. Over my 29g, these same plant species slowly died under this light. This was a deliberate experiement over a period of a year with two different tubes kept for several months each. I prefer tubes with a Kelvin around 6500K as tests under controlled conditions (by botanists, not me) have shown aquarium plants respond best to the 6000K to 7000K wavelength.
Byron.
So I should be ok with my lighting once I get the Finnex LED? All that I have read states that it is considered to be moderate lighting.
Byron Amazonas
AC Members
I didn't comment on the new light previously because I am not familiar with it, and LED is so involved. I just took a look at their website and it seems the Kelvin is 7000K so that's fine. But I've no idea as to the intensity. From what I can see though, it should be quite an improvement over the Aqueon. B.
