No Co2 carpet plant

[Sean W.]

Whats up guys,

I am starting a new 29 gallon planted tank, I really dont wan to have the added variable of Co2 to worry about, but i still want a carpeting plant. I am using the very best substrate, I am going to be using Pure laterite and florite for the base and black fine Eco-Complete as a cap to give a good grip on plants, good bacteria that breaks down fish waste into plant food, lots of vitamins and minerals and to be visually appealing. Im also going to be running a ton of light on this tank, the typical watts per gallon rule doesnt apply because i am going to be using LEDs, but there is going to be 3,360 lumens running on this tank.

What is a good carpeting plant that doesnt require Co2? thanks!

 

[jpappy789]

Keep in mind that CO2 (carbon) isn't just a variable, it's a necessity...and more light = more CO2 demand. Many of us with low light can get away with not injecting CO2 and dealing with slower growth. I'm not sure what fixture your speaking of, or if it's DIY (lumens doesn't translate well for me), but pumping out lots of light wont get you a good looking carpet without CO2.

There are certain species you could try...dwarf sags, dwarf hairgrass, Marsilia, certain Hydrocotyle spp., etc. can act as "carpet" plants and aren't very picky. But like I said, a bunch of light without CO2 isn't a good formula to experiment with. It tends to turn out poorly for most people.

Also consider that while certain plant-oriented substrates are good at nutrient retention (CEC), they almost always lack available nutrients. With more light, you also have a greater demand for those nutrients and may need to supplement the water column.

If CO2 is not an option at all, and you don't want to worry about a consistent fert regime then I'd consider scaling back the lighting depending on what your specific plans are...my mind works better with PAR numbers, lumens just isn't accurate enough IMO to get a good idea of what the system will be like beforehand. But anyways, you could certainly try a lower maintenance tank then but your "carpet" options would be severely limited, and some of those plants need some extra help to stay close to substrate and/or may end up growing a bit taller than preferred.

I also think it's worth mentioning that a lot of people establish carpets through the dry start method (DSM). But I think this usually involves pumping in a bunch of CO2 then when the tank is full to keep growth going as quickly as possible (don't quote me on that though). Might be something to look into though...

 

[Bansart]

I remember trying for years to carpet my substrate without a CO2 tank, i never had much luck, I've tried all sorts of variety. They tend to shoot a single runner laterally and never branch out. Have you considered moss tied to flat rocks.

 

[axelrod12]

I agree with everything pappy said about high light and no co2 as well as the nutrients. Consider root tabs ad well as dosing.

You could also try moss attached to stainless steel mesh instead of rocks. It may look a little cleaner. Something besides java moss may also look nicer. I've wanted to try a flame moss or fissidens carpet. I've also heard certain elatines can do well in no co2. E. triandra I believe, maybe a couple others. I think dwarf sag is also a really good option, many people have success carpeting this in low tech. There is also crypt parva but be prepared for some slow growth with that one. E. tenellus, or a marsilea may also work.


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[plantbrain]

I've seen a few excellent examples of non CO2/no excel dosing etc and carpet plants, but....they had VERY few other species/biomass other than the carpet plant.
They also used the DSM to grow the HC(or whatever species) in 1st, then later flooded the tank.
This is not a simple easy thing and many newbies will likely have much more trouble with it, but it is certainly possible for the more advanced folks and those with patience.

CO2 speeds up nice growth and also prevents species from competing with each other for CO2.
So you can grow anything well together with CO2, whereas that is not the case with non CO2.

Hair grass did well for me in non CO2 tanks. But I've seen nice tennellus, Gloss and HC, even one person had UG, but only 1. That's a tough plant to grow for folks with CO2.
So there will be a very high failure rate on that plant(95%+).

 

[Sean W.]

.......... Fine.


It looks like to grow the kind of plants im going to want to grow im going to have to do Co2...


Now... how do i do that? I already have a pressurized thing of Co2 and a diffuser. here are my questions

1. When ( at what stage of setting up the tank ) do i turn on the Co2?
2. is there a cylionide that i can put on a timer to turn it off at night?
3. how many bubbles per second do i run?


i guess thats all for now...

 

[ROYWS3]

I would put as many plants in as I could afford from the start and begin CO2 right away. Yes a solenoid will allow you to put your canister on a timer. I'm not running pressurized at the moment but when I did, I had two timers - one for the lights and the other for the CO2. My lights would come on then the CO2 would come on an hour later. In the evening, the CO2 would go off then the lights, an hour later. Make sure you get a solenoid with a needle valve then you can adjust your bubbles anyway you want them. I'd start them on the low side maybe one bubble every 2-3 seconds. You can increase as needed.

No one mentioned Bylxa as a carpet. I think it's ideal. It doesn't spread uncontrollably, it doesn't grow very tall, it will grow in moderate light without CO2 and it looks cool, nice and "grassy"

 

[axelrod12]

.......... Fine.


It looks like to grow the kind of plants im going to want to grow im going to have to do Co2...


Now... how do i do that? I already have a pressurized thing of Co2 and a diffuser. here are my questions

1. When ( at what stage of setting up the tank ) do i turn on the Co2?
2. is there a cylionide that i can put on a timer to turn it off at night?
3. how many bubbles per second do i run?


i guess thats all for now...

I'm not sure what you mean by a pressurized thing of co2 but I'm assuming it's just a co2 cylinder? If you have that and a diffuser you are going to need a regulator and bubble counter. Some people don't use bubble counters since the bubbles per second will be different for everyone and for some people will be more than can be counted by eye. I would recommend one though, even if you can't count the bubbles it still gives a good idea of what you are injecting. Start injecting co2 right when you add plants. Bubbles per second is going to vary. I would highly recommend getting a drop checker. Personally I run about 4-5 bubbles per second to keep my co2 where it should be.

Like Roy said a solenoid will allow you to keep the reg on a timer and shut it off when the lights are off. Many people have their co2 kick on about an hour before the tank lights to allow co2 to build up before the plants begin utilizing it. Shutting it off an hour or so before the lights is fine, the co2 will take time to gas out of the water at that point.




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[Mattjm20]

Hello everyone - I'm a bit intimidated by the DIY CO2 kits. Having never used one, I don't really understand the parts and how they work together.

Is there a commercially available kit that people favor? I've seen and heard about the Red Sea and Milwaukee products and was considering one of those.

 

[jpappy789]

Are you looking at strictly DIY (yeast/sugar method) or for pressurized units?