Not so new tank establishment

T

Tinajo

AC Members
Sep 26, 2006
185
1
18
KY -Go Big Blue!
Hello,
I have a 35 gallon tank that, until recently, housed an Angel fish. After the Angel died, I have tried to keep various hardy fish, to no avail. I have read the sticky on cycling and would like to start over. My first step is to buy a chemicals testing kit, so the first question I have is, are all kits pretty much the same or are some more accurate than others?

The second question is about the filter. The filter I have been using is a Tetra hob. I figure since I am having so many problems, maybe I should throw it away and buy a new filter. What kind would you recommend? I did try the Penguin some years ago, but it would not fit with the hood (the filter was too wide to close the back side of the lid).

I'm sure I will have more questions, so I thank you in advance for your assistance.

T.
 
A good liquid test kit, like the one by API is a great start. What specific filter/model do you have?
 
That filter would not even begin to rank on my list of desired filters for a 35 gallon tank. I suggest you look for a small canister filter or 2 medium HOBs that give you at least 6-8 times tank volume turnover per hour.
 
Don't be put off by the disparity in GPH between canister and HOB filters. HOBs will *always* have a higher value there than a canister for a similarly sized tank, but the canister will likely do a better job filtering. Just get a canister that's rated for a tank larger than yours is, maybe 50-70 gallons. Personally, I'm a fan of canister + HOB, but YMMV.
 
Please provide documented proof "that HOBs *will* always have a higher value there than a canister for a similarly sized tank"...


GPH isn't a rating that differ for a tank size that it is on...it is a function of the pumping mechanism, that has no clue to what size tank it is on.
 
Rbishop said:
Please provide documented proof "that HOBs *will* always have a higher value there than a canister for a similarly sized tank"...


GPH isn't a rating that differ for a tank size that it is on...it is a function of the pumping mechanism, that has no clue to what size tank it is on.
Click to expand...

maybe what he means is a hob for 50 gallon say ac50 is 200gph while say a canster eheim 2217 thats for 66 gallon tank is 116gph. since filtering also has to take into account the amount of media for bacteria growth. since canisters typically have more media slow pumps while hobs have smaller area for media but faster pumps.
 
I agree with Bishop. GPH is GPH- regardless of the size of the tank, and to take it one step further-
An HOB sits at the waterline and should actually move as much water as it states- a canister does not account for flow lost to "head"- which is the effect of gravity of the water. A canister sits below the waterline, usually underneath the tank. To pump the water back against gravity, you're forcing water up against the weight of all that water in the tank over the entire distance of your tubing- the filter WILL loose water speed- sometimes considerably. A canister is more efficient at passing almost 100% of the water it does move (which could be considerably less than rated) through the media, as opposed to an HOB that directs flow across the media.. its 6 of one half dozen of the other IME- difference is HOB are much easier to clean and canisters are much more expensive. The only time I use canisters are for CO2 injected tanks where I want to minimize surface disruption, otherwise I don't like them.
 
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