Odyssea CFS 500 Can-filter review and circumference modification

[CWO4GUNNER]

Its been a while since I have had the impeller out, but I do remember the white plastic impeller shaft that stays inside the motor housing. I may be thinking of another model filter impeller shaft but if I'm right the white impeller shaft can be pulled out of the base and stuck back inside. Perhaps it simply popped out or broke off at the base and can be drilled out and re-stuck with the remainder of the shaft albeit short. I know its almost impossible to glue in a new shaft unless it is staked into the hole at the bottom, even if it means opening up the hole from the outside bottom with a drill (I have done on HOB's) then resealed from the outside to prevent leaking. If you must use a wooden or paper dowel, you should dip or treat it with an epoxy so that it will not get waterlogged and swell up stopping the impeller.

 

[reflexhunter]

Yes I am a little worried about the swelling of the stick, if it makes it for a couple of weeks I'll be re-doing it with the plastic lollipop sticks I found at hobby lobby.

 

[Gold8165]

i received my Odyssea CFS 500 today and much to my surprise version 2 still has wrong o-rings.Good thing ace had the correct size o-rings because lowes didn't have any

 

[reflexhunter]

That's weird, mine were fine.

 

[A Sneaky Fatman]

I just got one of these filters yesterday and had to replace the o-rings with some that were 1/16 smaller than the ones reccomended but had the same wall thickness. They seem to be doing fine with no leaks so far.

I cut my top foam block to look like a curling stone, (best way I know to describe it.) Then, wrapped it in the quilt batting I had. Also cut the top part to allow the water to flow around the sides

Is this going to reduce the efectiveness since I didn't glue it to the bottome foam block? It seemed to me that the black foam sat below the intake strainer anyway.

 

[jerryclunsford]

I guess it depends on how long the filter you get has been in stock, whether it has the right O-rings or not. I got mine last week from Topdog and it has the wrong ones. It also (unfortunately) has the wire run though the lid. Makes it a little harder to work with on the maintenance. It would be easier if the lid were not hanging from the cord.
Thanks for the Mod Gunner. I will be using it on a 39 Gallon Salt Water Aquarium. It will need to turn over the volume of the tank 6 to 10 times per hour, so with this mod it should be able to handle it and I won't have to spend a fortune on a High priced filter. If you want I can let you know how it does.
I know this is a fresh water forum, But I get my information where I can. Don't know if y'all are pure fresh water or you have a little salt in your veins too.
Thanks once again everyone for all of the information.
jerryclunsford

 

[caall99]

Thanks for this great mod!!! I am receiving my filter this week (probably Wednesday) and was hoping to get some modding done right out of the box. It appears the benefits to your modding are multi-fold:

1. Increased flow rate due to larger media surface area
2. Increased filtration media longevity while maintaining high flow rate
3. Greater biological filtration capacity

I would like to keep the mod simple, and easy to clean so i am thinking of skipping the polyfill batting covering. I think i may just reduce the diameter of the white sponge to allow for 360 deg. filtration. Is there another method of cutting the foam without making a mess of it? I was hoping to achieve a more "factory" finish.

I will have a 36W turbo twist UV on the outlet of this filter.

Is there any disadvantage to this mod that may result in me wanting to revert to the stock configuration? (necessitating the purchase of $20+ dollars of foam media replacements)

 

[caall99]

Self bump, and some other questions.

What is the canister filter GPH before mod? I assume its 240GPH after the mod? Is 240GPH a realistic number lets say after a months run-time?

I am trying to decided wether i should attached my 36W Odyssea UV sterilizer in-line with my Fluval G6, Fluval 404, or the modded CFS500. I know given the aforementioned filters, the CFS500 is probably the strongest work horse of the three, and most likely the heart of my tanks filtration system. Likewise it probably has the highest flow numbers as well.

Where should my UV be going?

 

[jerryclunsford]

Caall99
If you want a more factory finish you could use something like a band saw to cut the sponge with. A simple jig to hold it in position while you rotate it.
As for the placement of the UV unit I could only guess, as I have not ever used one, so I will not. It would not hurt to flow test all of your units under the same conditions and get the numbers for all of them. Having this data should help you to make your decision.
jerryclunsford

 

[CWO4GUNNER]

The GPH after the Mod will not necessarily increase since both the stock and modified configuration are starting out with clean filter media. However since the Mod version has about 5-8 times the filter surface area over stock and therefore 5-8 times the flow capacity, the Modded version will be able to sustain the pumps max capacity GPH for a far greater period of time, while capture far more debris, and with a far greater quality of polish filtration. Really no comparison over the stock config if modded correctly. Mine has been in service since the last cleaning 10/2011, I always write the last cleaning date on the filter body with a piece of duct tape.