Old Tank Syndrome?? Fish Dying

Thanks everybody for the info on cycling. I didn't think I was removing too much bacteria with the cleaning b-cuz I didn't clean the filter & bio wheel. Also, I was using well water with no additives like chlorine.
 
Not cleaning the filter and the biowheel should have left enough bacteria, that is why I have to wonder if there is something in the water that is killing it off. Maybe you could try to use a dechlor. for the heck of it? Most of them say they neutralize heavy metals and stuff too, maybe there is something we are not accounting for. Since you have such a small tank, some of the dechlor. should last you a long time, alot of them are only a tiny amount per 5-10 gallons. Just an idea
 
Rtr

I have both a Ph and a NitrAte test and some tap water which I keep onhand for water changes (to allow for temp adjustment). How long does the water have to age and does it need to be exposed to air? (I have caps on the bottles.) How do I do the OTS test?

I also have TetraAqua AquaSafe onhand, but I've never used it. I also have EasyBalance which I've never used.

P.S. Just took a water sample to the LFS for testing. Their numbers are exactly the same as mine so I figure my tests are right.
 
Last edited:
OTS tanks will show PH considerably lower than tap, nitrates considerably higher. Let the tap water sit out in a shallow bowl overnight and then test it to get true numbers on Ph. tap water in our pipes is often force fed differnet gasses that alter the numbers. placing it outside to equalize with atmosphere will give you an accurate reading.


Dave
 
Dave

Aged Water Readings: Ph = ~7.8 NitrAtes = 0

Tank Water Readings: Ph = ~8.0 Nitrates = 0

I guess OTS is not an issue here. I'm not going to rack my brains :read: trying to figure out what happened and just move forward from here. :hang:
 
Re your original post: In the last 3 days I've lost 1 oto (new in tank - lived 3 days)

Maybe you can skip racking your brains about the oto, anyway. They are notorious for a low survival rate of new introductions. There’s some good reading about this under the heading ”Why newly-arrived Otos can die like flies” at www.skepticalaquarist.com , under “Fishes”, then “Catfishes”, about 3/4 ways down.
 
Aging is variable - if you aerate in a shallow bowl, 1/2 hour may be enough. I you age in a higball glass, more than 24 hours would be more likely. Aging in a capped bottle does not work - air exchange is critical, as is exposed surface area versus total volume.

I've never had an established tank with a true zero nitrate reading (<1ppm) unless it was heavy planted and barely stocked. My tanks read <10ppm regularly as they are heavily planted.

No tank with low nitrate is likely to be in OTS. The combo of insufficient water partials to clear nitrate and at the same time restore the KH/pH to near-source water levels pretty much defines OTS. The TDS is usually way up also (from top-off to replace evaporated water without sufficient changes to dilute the increased density out). The high-nitrate, low pH, high TDS water is endurable by the old fish as it happens slowly and they adapt. That same water is too alien to new fish, they go into osmotic shock and die. Most folks do not have TDS test equipment, but nitrate much higher than source water, pH & KH much lower than source water is enough to diagnose OTS as a cause for new fish deaths.

You do not apear to have detectable nitrate, so OTS would not be likely.
 
Last edited:
AquariaCentral.com