opinions on eco-complete

plantbrain said:
It will lower pH, but this is not an issue if you do weekly water changes. It makes using the pH/KH table a little tougher, but there's a simple way around that.
What is the simple way around that? I may use it in the future on client's tanks, and will not be there often to test and adjust. I set a pH controller and leave. So how do I work around the pH/KH adjustment?
 
I purchased a 20lb bag of the eco from Drs Foster & Smith site, and it was 19.99 for the bag, and 9.99 for shipping, but I bought a bunch of other stuff too, so I'm not sure what the shipping would be just for the eco. My LFS was going to special order it for me, but they wanted 30 bucks. I know just the 20lb bag won't be enough for the 10, so I will use a layer of something less expensive on the bottom, since I am going for the dark color for my neons, I can hardly wait to start planting!!
 
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Bmeasure said:
What is the simple way around that? I may use it in the future on client's tanks, and will not be there often to test and adjust. I set a pH controller and leave. So how do I work around the pH/KH adjustment?

You allow a sample of the tank water to adjust to ambient levels.
Then whatever that pH is, you lower it with the CO2 1.0-1.1 pH units.

That is equivilant to 30-35ppm.

You cannot use a pH controller since all it measures is merely pH, not the other acids such as tannins.

The rate of CO2 added to reduce the pH 1.0 pH unit is the asame with a semi automated method.

No pH controller is needed.

Amano does not use pH controllers, he does not like them, I came to the same conclusions years ago quite independently of him also.

You can add much more CO2 safely during the day when it's needed.
Fish do not like high CO2 at night, so why add it then? Plants do not use it at night.

The O2 levels will be highest when the CO2 is added, this is the best for the fish health.

I've done plenty of tanks for clients, and on going ones also. I never use a pH controller no matter what type of substrate I use.

The rate of CO2 as adjusted via a needle valve is the same unless you move it.

So the KH can move all over, the CO2 ppm is still the same.
The pH can drop due to peat, tannins, stray voltage, etc
The CO2 ppm is still the same if things change.

So once you set the CO2 rate, the rest matters little.
I use that and the plants as the main test.


Regards,
Tom Barr
 
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