osmosis unit making noise when off
- Thread starter Statman
- Start date
im sure you figured it out but i meant you can see the valve in pic 1, not 2 ;]
also i figured out a way to make the noise stop. if i turn the waste open or closed, and it starts to grin, opening the blue line (clean water) for 3 or so seconds and then shutting it off makes the noise go away.
also, by leaving the waste line open all the time a steady stream of water continually is coming out. is this natural? how is this going to affect my water bill having a continual stream running non stop?
also i figured out a way to make the noise stop. if i turn the waste open or closed, and it starts to grin, opening the blue line (clean water) for 3 or so seconds and then shutting it off makes the noise go away.
also, by leaving the waste line open all the time a steady stream of water continually is coming out. is this natural? how is this going to affect my water bill having a continual stream running non stop?
Ok, the valve on the waste line is "membrane washing" add-on, just doesn't look like the membrane flushing kits I'm use to seeing. Here's what the listing says about it:
You do not want water coming out the waste line 24/7 (which should only happen if that membrane washer is left open). It'll burn up your pre-filter cartridges much faster and shoot your water bill totals through the roof.
As a side note, the last stage carbon (after the DI chamber) is intended for drinking water, not so much for tank water.
From those two statements, you want it to be closed nearly all of the time (as in 99% of the time -- only open it to flush / wash off the membrane). With it closed, water should only come out the waste line while the auto-shutoff valve is open, which should only be when water is coming out of the product water line / out of the DI cartridge. If the unit is not operating in that manner, it would seem the problem would lie in the auto-shutoff valve not being able to close properly.
You do not want water coming out the waste line 24/7 (which should only happen if that membrane washer is left open). It'll burn up your pre-filter cartridges much faster and shoot your water bill totals through the roof.
As a side note, the last stage carbon (after the DI chamber) is intended for drinking water, not so much for tank water.
You're welcome!
I don't know if it's necessarily bad for the tank, but depending on the quality of the carbon, it could be adding phosphates back into the water (which would be bad). Even if you decide to keep using it, I would just choose to not ever replace it once the time comes. I'd just remove it at that point and bypass it all together.
I don't know if it's necessarily bad for the tank, but depending on the quality of the carbon, it could be adding phosphates back into the water (which would be bad). Even if you decide to keep using it, I would just choose to not ever replace it once the time comes. I'd just remove it at that point and bypass it all together.
That ebay system is a retrofitted drinking water system.
The most common problem with auto shut off valves (ASOV) is that water is leaking from the system somewhere. Typically is is from the end of the DI tube (through whatever sort of valve you have there) or through the check valve. In your system, the check valve is located in the elbow fitting in the purified water ("permeate" port in the RO membrane housing). That said, we used the brand of ASOV's you have for a short while years ago, and changed because too many of them were faulty.
Some other comments on your rbay system:
The water is as pure as your system can make it after it goes through the DI stage. Remove the horizontal GAC stage that comes after the DI.
Placing a DI stage in a horizontal position is a fundamental configuration error common to these retrofitted drinking water systems sold on ebay. Remove the DI stage from its clips and orient it vertically with bottom-up flow. Check to see if the resin in that little DI housing is packed tightly in the housing. If it isn't, call the vendot and tell him to send you more resin. You want the DI resin cation and anion beads mixed and packed tightly so they stay that way.
You should think hard about getting a pressure gauge add-on kit and a tds meter. Without those two your are flying blind in terms of knowing how the system is operating.
The valve on your waste line is a flush valve/flow restrictor combo.
Russ @ Buckeye Field Supply
The most common problem with auto shut off valves (ASOV) is that water is leaking from the system somewhere. Typically is is from the end of the DI tube (through whatever sort of valve you have there) or through the check valve. In your system, the check valve is located in the elbow fitting in the purified water ("permeate" port in the RO membrane housing). That said, we used the brand of ASOV's you have for a short while years ago, and changed because too many of them were faulty.
Some other comments on your rbay system:
The water is as pure as your system can make it after it goes through the DI stage. Remove the horizontal GAC stage that comes after the DI.
Placing a DI stage in a horizontal position is a fundamental configuration error common to these retrofitted drinking water systems sold on ebay. Remove the DI stage from its clips and orient it vertically with bottom-up flow. Check to see if the resin in that little DI housing is packed tightly in the housing. If it isn't, call the vendot and tell him to send you more resin. You want the DI resin cation and anion beads mixed and packed tightly so they stay that way.
You should think hard about getting a pressure gauge add-on kit and a tds meter. Without those two your are flying blind in terms of knowing how the system is operating.
The valve on your waste line is a flush valve/flow restrictor combo.
Russ @ Buckeye Field Supply
