Parameters - are they OK?

Ripples

Ripples

Mad fish lady
Feb 14, 2005
126
0
0
52
London UK
Ok I've started my CO2 - and given I distrusted the 'permanent CO2' test that came with the kit because it was saying that my KH was over 16 and my CO2 non existent (supposed to give one reading for KH and PH and therefore CO2 content), I did some testing myself. The results surprised me a bit - so I tested my other (non CO2) tank and my tap water as well..
Basically it looked like my tanks all had different KHs to themselves and to tap. Does this make sense? I didn't think KH was particularly affected by being in a tank..

So here it is:
New CO2 75g planted: PH 7.0 KH 10 - therefore can assume CO2 to be 30. Which given I could see no pearling or anything I wondered about (but turned down the CO2 a bit anyway). As an aside the GH seems to be a whopping 22 - any idea how this could be reduced a bit without upsetting all the other parameters? (Substrate is Aquarium sand)

So - I tested tap water: PH 8.0, KH 9 - therefore can assume CO2 to be 2.7 (no great surprise)

So lastly I tested my second tank (substrate gravel): PH 7.5, KH 6 - CO2 negligable again.

The question would be (I guess) how come one tank has such a low KH?
Oh - and how do I reduce GH since it seems to be sky high and may cause problems with some of my plants..

If you need any other information then just let me know

Thanking you
R
 
First thing, not sure what kind of chart you're using to determine the CO2 contents. But a majority of the charts out there are acurate only in tanks injected with CO2. So your test on the second tank and tap water means nothing. Although I am pretty sure there's no CO2 in it.
Not all plants pearl readily, and for those that do pearl easily, they require alot of light. How many watts of light are you pumping into the tank?
And the answer about your tanks kH, not sure what other people have, but I have 5 tanks all with different kH. 2 of them are 5G with same substrate, same filter, same amount of light but different fish and plants and they have different kH.
I also do weekly water change. It's a puzzle to me but since no fish die and the plants are healthy ...
 
KH/alkalinity is used up in normal nitrification, can increase with replacement of evaporation with tap water or by substrate, rocks, etc. which have soluble carbonates/bicarbonates. KH is replenished by water changes. Operating tanks do tend to show variation in KH.

Tap water commonly has CO2 dissolved in it. The level you tested direct from the tap is lower than many folks have. The charts should reflect CO2 in any tank, not just injected ones, but will not work correctly if other non-carbonate buffers (phosphate based especially) are used. Tanks with high organic loads or with tannins/organic acids added will also not read correctly, as the acids read as if they were CO2. The use of the charts assumes no added buffer or acids.
 
Ok - so basically - until my plants start struggling I shouldn't panic!! Thanks for that.
In terms of the lighting - rather stupidly I'm not sure. I know that's dreadful - but I took out the ones that came with the set up (it's a Juwel - comes with all the equipment) and told the guy I was going planted. I ended up with one that seems pink, one 'white' (so assume full spectrum) I also assume that they're quite powerful since I told him it would have plants. I'll have a look on the actual tubes tonight to see what they are - but don't have much storage, so didn't keep the packaging (duh).

Thanks for the help
R
 
It looks like 2 x 36watts - one is 'daylight' one is 'pink plant grow'.
Does that sound sensible (sorry had to read the writing on the bulbs reflected in the water otherwise I'd have had to unplug the whole unit!
R <--- who's clearly lazy!
 
With a total of 74 Watts over a 75 gallon tank, the CO2 is trivial, atmospheric CO2 will provide as much as the plants can use. This is a very low lighting level for a moderately deep tank.
 
Not too sure what kind of test kit you are using to test your CO2. But here is a good link with info on CO2 testing.
http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_plant_co2chart.htm
It even have a calculator for you to caluclate the CO2. This may give you a good cross reference to use on. Pay attention to this part:
NOTE: If you aren't adding CO2 to your water, and the CO2 level based on the pH and KH indicates more than 5ppm, then it is very likely that some other buffer (such as phosphate) is present in your water. In an inhabited aquarium, the amount of CO2 produced by the fish will not have an effect on CO2 levels in the water. Any excess CO2 created by fish will dissipate into the air, leaving a fairly constant CO2 level of about 3-4ppm. If you test your pH and KH, and without adding any CO2, the chart says you've got 20ppm CO2, don't believe it.

In some case, water coming right from the tap can contain very high or very low levels of CO2. This can result in tap water with a high KH, and low pH. But, in just a few hours, that excess CO2 will dissipate from the water, leaving the normal 3-4ppm, and the pH will rise. Sometimes, the water might come from the tap with extremely little CO2, which can result in tap water with a low KH, and a very high pH. Again, after a few hours, the CO2 level will equalize, and the water will end up with 3-4ppm CO2.
Click to expand...
As for the lighting in your tank. You might as well disconnect your CO2, because your plants aren't using the CO2. There isn't enough light to process in order to make use of the added CO2. I would guest that at least %50 maybe even %75 percent of the CO2 are not being used by your plant and released back into the air. You need to increase your lighting to at least 2 watts per galon in order to make use of the CO2 you're feeding into it.
 
Thank you so much for your help.
This being the case - what lighting would you guys recommend (not necessarily just in wattage - but in terms of brands etc).
Only the guy there recommended this one for my specific tank with plants - and seemed to know what he was talking about. Does it make a difference if the tubes are T6's? I know the wattage is the same, but the product blurb online seems to be suggesting it's more efficient..

EDIT: they are also 42" - no idea if this comes into play?

Thanks again, and please don't think I'm ignoring you - just trying to work out what I DO need to get!
R
 
Well, that depends on how much you plan to spend.
I personally like Compact Flourescent light such as these: http://www.floridadriftwood.com/product.asp?0=258&1=270&3=698
But I think at 260 Watt it's an overkill for your tank.
Here's the one I think is what you're talking about:
http://www.aquariumlight.com/product_info.asp?dbid=454
Here's the hight end ones, a metal halide (you can grow pot with this thing):
http://www.aquariumlight.com/product_info.asp?dbid=135

Having say all that crap. I personally went out to walmart and bought two dual 4' normal t12 flourescent light and hang then on top of the tank. Then I went out and grab four 4' daylight tube (cost twice as much as the normal soft light tube) from Home depot. All costing less that $50.
 
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