pH Controller and CO2

[ChiaJesus]

Yesterday my new Milwaukee pH controller arrived in the mail. I calibrated it this morning but I won't be hooking it up until tomorrow.

The instructions that came with it leave a lot to be desired. I was hoping that someone with some experience with these units can help.

1. The solenoid from the regulator plugs in to the back of the power supply, correct?

2. Do I have to adjust the amount of CO2 being released in the tank? (ie: should I throttle up/down the needle valve?) Or just keep it the way it is?

 

[JAY973]

With pressurized Co2 you are better to adjust on the side of caution and monitor a Controller is nice but a drop indicator is a good quick reference. I don't mean to state the obvious but just in case DON'T make changes if you can't spare the time to monitor example plug it and go to bed or work.

1.) Yes the regulator gets plugged into the back of the control's plug. The controller works my cutting power to the regulator once the desired PH is met.

2.) Here is an oldie http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_plant_co2chart.htm shoud help explain what you should target for your water parameters. (assuming you have test kits to get water parameters.)

Good luck!

 

[JAY973]

BTW the means of getting Co2 into the tank is important too so will you be using a Reactor or diffusor?

 

[Turbosaurus]

forget Jay- he's making it more complicated than it needs to be-

c'mon johnny! pH controller AND drop checker? you've been hanging out with those other gear nuts too much you guys. Any excuse to buy more equipment!

Yup. Set your pH on the dial, make sure you're getting a good reading from your probe, plug the solenoid into the slots on the back of the big black plug and go....

When the alarms light is blinking (when the tank ph is higher than you have it set on the dial) the controller powers (opens) the solenoid valve. When the proper ph is reached, it powers off the solenoid, shutting the valve, stopping Co2.

You can increase your bubble count a bit becasue your controller will turn it off when the pH gets too low. You can def. turn it up (that's the point of the monitor- maximizing CO2 without hurting the fish) Just make sure if you are using an inline reactor that you are not getting gas bubbles inside it- becasue then, even if you turn off the CO2 the excess trapped gas inside that tube will continue to disolve and the pH will continue to drop until its all been dissolved. If you have a diffuser in tank its irrelavant.

Watch the tank carefully for a couple days for signs of stressed fish to make sure you don't have it set too low.

 

[JAY973]

forget Jay- he's making it more complicated than it needs to be-

c'mon johnny! pH controller AND drop checker? you've been hanging out with those other gear nuts too much you guys. Any excuse to buy more equipment!

Yeah I know...LOL but in my defense I was speaking to the level of experience for ChiaJesus with Co2 (no offense) and I think for someone new to pressurized Co2 it's easier to look at a drop check and have a quick reference for Co2 levels Yellow (bad) Green (Good) Blue (Not Enough). I don't mean to be a sales guy but I think the RedSea's are $15-$20 for piece of mind. They are not that attractive so you can take it out later once you have a better understanding of Co2. (if you don't already know.)

Having a Controller by itself is no indicator of how much Co2 you have in the tank unless you understand the charts of your PH/KH and how adding Co2 affects it, hopefully the link would do that, in any case if you prefer the math the drop checker is overkill. (I like the pretty colors :laugh

(Some may think the Controller is overkill it's a matter of opinion I know many who don't use them in the hobby.)

Just make sure if you are using an inline reactor that you are not getting gas bubbles inside it- becasue then, even if you turn off the CO2 the excess trapped gas inside that tube will continue to disolve and the pH will continue to drop until its all been dissolved. If you have a diffuser in tank its irrelavant.

Yup! That's why I asked. from experience it happend to me with my reactor.

ChiaJesus - you definitely have enough information to get your Co2 going good luck :clap:

 

[Turbosaurus]

I just like making fun of you Jay....

its like walking around with a thermometer to see if your coffee is too hot.

Here's how I can tell...
if the plants are not pearling, its not enough CO2.
If the fish are gasping, too much.
If the plants are pearling and the fish are happy, its just right.

the key to CO2 is to make any changes in your CO2 levels very gradual, and to make sure you are home to watch the tank very carefully for a few hours after any change. Its really easy to go over the top and wipe out a tank full of fish.

 

[ChiaJesus]

You guys are great, thanks for replies.

I actually do have a Red Sea drop checker that is showing green. As it turns out, my target pH is 6.7 and when I put the electrode in the tank this morning to check things out, I was amazed to find out that it already was 6.7. My pH test kit doesn't register 6.7 so I was pretty happy to find that I'm on the right track.

My reason for getting the pH controller was to try and optimize the amount of CO2 getting put into the tank. I have the CO2 running 24 hours/day right now, but I know that's not quite necessary. Although I am pretty new to the whole CO2 thing, I do understand the concepts.

Your messages have been very helpful. Thank you very much!

 

[JAY973]

I just like making fun of you Jay.....

Wouldn't have it any other way...

its like walking around with a thermometer to see if your coffee is too hot.

:lol:

You guys are great, thanks for replies.

I actually do have a Red Sea drop checker that is showing green. As it turns out, my target pH is 6.7 and when I put the electrode in the tank this morning to check things out, I was amazed to find out that it already was 6.7. My pH test kit doesn't register 6.7 so I was pretty happy to find that I'm on the right track.

My reason for getting the pH controller was to try and optimize the amount of CO2 getting put into the tank. I have the CO2 running 24 hours/day right now, but I know that's not quite necessary. Although I am pretty new to the whole CO2 thing, I do understand the concepts.

Your messages have been very helpful. Thank you very much!

Cool you are certainly on the right track! :thm: Ignore my overkilling ways:laugh:

 

[timwag2001]

i plug my ph controller into a timer. that way it comes on an hour before the lights are on so that when the lights come on the co2 is already where it should be.

 

[bigwater]

I just like making fun of you Jay....

its like walking around with a thermometer to see if your coffee is too hot.

Here's how I can tell...
if the plants are not pearling, its not enough CO2.
If the fish are gasping, too much.
If the plants are pearling and the fish are happy, its just right.

the key to CO2 is to make any changes in your CO2 levels very gradual, and to make sure you are home to watch the tank very carefully for a few hours after any change. Its really easy to go over the top and wipe out a tank full of fish.

Well said!!

I had a ph controller, it worked well until the probe died. I never replaced the probe a now have the controller is sitting in the closet. The controller will keep you ph stable, but keep an eye on your hardness. In order for me to the the CO2 levels I wanted I would have needed to have the ph too low. What I did was put some crushed coral in the tank to get the hardness up, and all was good.