pH help Needed!!

BettaFishMommy said:
i agree, a stable yet high ph is better than you mucking with the levels and potentially spelling disaster for your tank. use a longer acclimation process (drip acclimation) so that the new fish are not shocked going into the higher/different ph level in the tank.
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Whilst really huge swings are to be avoided (I'm talking 8.5 to 7 and back up again in a few hours) pH stability is really not that important. Fish don't care. Fish are not shocked by pH changes but rather by changes in TDS. If the local water has a very high pH it's likely that new fish will come from similar water anyway.

I don't know how that "stable pH" and "pH shock" myths carry on in the face of the fact that planted tanks may vary by a whole pH point over 12 hours as CO2 levels change.

I always think that acclimation issues need to be considered in the light of the way that fisheries introduce new fish to a stretch of water. They bring them along in a big barrel and pour them in.
 
BettaFishMommy said:
i agree, a stable yet high ph is better than you mucking with the levels and potentially spelling disaster for your tank. use a longer acclimation process (drip acclimation) so that the new fish are not shocked going into the higher/different ph level in the tank.

if you are not showing nitrates in a new tank, it is most likely not cycled. the only way an established tank would show zero nitrates is if it was planted heavily enough for the plants to 'use up' all the nitrates. i would not add any more fish to the tank yet, continue monitoring all three parameters (ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate) until your tank is cycled, then you can add more fish.
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The tank is not yet cycled, but has been seeded with media from my filters, is planted, and is being closely monitored. No worries :)

Kristina
 
kyryah said:
The tank is not yet cycled, but has been seeded with media from my filters, is planted, and is being closely monitored. No worries :)

Kristina
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As worrisome as I am, I would have to admit probably "over" monitored. You know me....:huh: What can I say..
 
Ah ha, yes, well, that is what happens when an ex-reef tank owner enters the world of freshwater, panic attacks galore, lol. It will cycle faster because of the seeded media, everything will be fine.

Kristina
 
better to be extra cautious, extra careful, and extra watchful. the alternative results in a possible bad situation.
 
KarlTh said:
GH anything from 0 to 600ppm. Ditto KH. What is "good" depends on the fish.
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Well, all my inhabitants are looking hale and hardy, they are:
Celestial Pearl Danios, Scarlett Badis, Cardinal Tetra's, Rummy Nose Tetra's, a Threadfin Rainbow, Clown Loach (who always is a hoot no matter what the water parameters are) 2 cats.
 
Just wanted to add a little bit to all the good advice that's been given already.

With a higher PH, one should be extra careful with Ammonia, as it will be highly toxic in the higher PH range. I've been able to get away with Ammonia readings of 2ppm and up with a low PH, but at your PH, even .5 would probably be deadly. Just keep that in mind.

When it comes to GH, the higher the better for most snails, as this will reinforce calcium for their shells. GH is also considered when there is interest in breeding the stock that you have. KH for the most part is used as a buffer to keep a stable PH.

Hope this helps a bit.

Shawn
 
Yes Shawn, that helps tremendeously. I only use RO so I am perplexed that I cannot get PH below 7.6 my ammonia is always at 0 though. No fish stress noted in months so perhaps they have adjusted to the PH. I do frequent wc's also.
 
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