PH/KH question from newbie
- Thread starter benji1174
- Start date
Also...
If you're gonna be injecting CO2...
DO NOT ADD PH STABILIZERS as they will really foul up the CO2 calculations & ratios as they're not Carbonate based.
Here's a good resource for CO2 & how it relates to pH, kH, & CO2:
http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_plant_co2chart.htm
If you're gonna be injecting CO2...
DO NOT ADD PH STABILIZERS as they will really foul up the CO2 calculations & ratios as they're not Carbonate based.
Here's a good resource for CO2 & how it relates to pH, kH, & CO2:
http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_plant_co2chart.htm
Crushed Coral in the filter makes a nice carbonate buffer. Your tap is nice as is but if you're injecting CO2 you won't want to let it slip below 3 degrees. 5 tablespoons in a filter bag should do the trick, adjust as needed and check when cleaning filter. Needs to be replenished once or twice a year.
Comparing the pH of the tank with CO2 against the same water after it has offgassed will let you work out the CO2 no matter what sort of buffering has gone on. You want to drop the pH one full step (for instance from 7.5 to 6.5). That'll give you about 30 ppm CO2 (assuming ambient is around 3 ppm).
Comparing the pH of the tank with CO2 against the same water after it has offgassed will let you work out the CO2 no matter what sort of buffering has gone on. You want to drop the pH one full step (for instance from 7.5 to 6.5). That'll give you about 30 ppm CO2 (assuming ambient is around 3 ppm).
Now that you've been talked out of RO, my city's water supply is off the charts high in phosphates. We discovered it the hard way - and are still dealing with algae months later...
Cathy
Cathy
Phsphates do not cause Algea (yeah I know everyone wants to argue that point) As Tom Barr would say set up a tank with high Phoshates, and one with high nitrogen levels and see which one grows algea.
I tested the theory, and keep my phosphates above 4 ppm all the time without issue.
Phosphates will mess with the Kh pH relationship when calculating co2. So beware of that.
Many of the Seachem buffers do contain Phosphates. The pH Up does not. I suspect it is sodium bicarbonate (Yes Baking soda just like Arm and hammer) and that should tell you how much it is worth. Baking soda does the same thing and costs much less.
Dave
I tested the theory, and keep my phosphates above 4 ppm all the time without issue.
Phosphates will mess with the Kh pH relationship when calculating co2. So beware of that.
Many of the Seachem buffers do contain Phosphates. The pH Up does not. I suspect it is sodium bicarbonate (Yes Baking soda just like Arm and hammer) and that should tell you how much it is worth. Baking soda does the same thing and costs much less.
Dave
Just as a side note. . . I contact Seachem about their pH buffers and this is what they had to say:
"Phosphate based buffers can be read on your KH test kit but they are not true KH. Alkaline and Acid buffer are carbonate based buffers not phosphate. They will not cause a inaccurate reading. Acid Buffer causes some of your KH to be converted to CO2. This will usually gas off in about 24 hours. So your CO2 levels will be a little elevated the day after you add acid buffer but it is still a true reading."
As of now, I have decided to go with tap water. I will adjust my KH/pH with the use of the Seachem buffers (I understand that they are similar to baking soda from the store but I ordered them online for $4 so I'm not upset about the price), my GH with Seachem Equilibrium, and will use Prime to take care of the chlorine. I will also set up a DIY CO2 system and see how it works for me. I understand that I will eventually need to go to a pressurized system down the road but I guess this whole thing is a learning experience.
One thing that I didn't mention before, that I know is going to hurt my CO2 count, is that I am using a wet/dry sump filter. I am hoping that I can maintain my CO2 levels by dosing directly into the sump and therefor directly into the tank. I have modified my tank flow so I have next to no surface aggitation. Because of this, I may have to switch to a pressurized system more quickly.
In any case. . . Thank you very much for helping me make my first planted tank experience better!!!!
Ben
"Phosphate based buffers can be read on your KH test kit but they are not true KH. Alkaline and Acid buffer are carbonate based buffers not phosphate. They will not cause a inaccurate reading. Acid Buffer causes some of your KH to be converted to CO2. This will usually gas off in about 24 hours. So your CO2 levels will be a little elevated the day after you add acid buffer but it is still a true reading."
As of now, I have decided to go with tap water. I will adjust my KH/pH with the use of the Seachem buffers (I understand that they are similar to baking soda from the store but I ordered them online for $4 so I'm not upset about the price), my GH with Seachem Equilibrium, and will use Prime to take care of the chlorine. I will also set up a DIY CO2 system and see how it works for me. I understand that I will eventually need to go to a pressurized system down the road but I guess this whole thing is a learning experience.
One thing that I didn't mention before, that I know is going to hurt my CO2 count, is that I am using a wet/dry sump filter. I am hoping that I can maintain my CO2 levels by dosing directly into the sump and therefor directly into the tank. I have modified my tank flow so I have next to no surface aggitation. Because of this, I may have to switch to a pressurized system more quickly.
In any case. . . Thank you very much for helping me make my first planted tank experience better!!!!
Ben
daveedka - my tank is low nitrates - I have rams. My phosphates shot to over 5 when I added city water. I thought I understood that there needs to be a 10:1 ratio (nitrates
hosphates). How is this balance to be maintained without harming the fish? Is that 10:1 ratio a dumb one?
Cathy
hosphates). How is this balance to be maintained without harming the fish? Is that 10:1 ratio a dumb one?Cathy
