PH too High in New Tank (cross-posted)

Hypatia

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May 1, 2006
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PH too High in New Tank

Hi,
I am not exactly a newbie, but I don't know if this would be considered a newbie question or not. I am posting it both places, so that people can respond on the forum that is appropriate. If one gets no response or a moderator tells me it belongs in one or the other forum, I promise to delete the other.

This is just Background Info on the tank.....

I have a new 37G Tall tank. I used a mixture of play sand, fluorite (the premixed stuff), aquarium grade peat, and your basic gray colored gravel as my sub layer plus a top layer (but more about that in a bit). I also mixed in gravel from my 500G Koi Pond and filter media from my 5.5 and the Koi filter, plus heavily planted the tank to get the cycle jump started. I put in five Black Skirt tetras, as they are pretty hardy and I like them (I was big into the hobby about ten years ago, I had never heard of fishless cycling till after I started this tank. I seeded the 5.5 with gravel from a little Betta tank my daughter had been given.) I had no ammonia after the first week. I talked to my family-owned LFS guy, and he thought it was likely that much seeding had made the tank a cycling tank form the get go, so I tried three smallish Congos (which were on sale). I had tiny ammonia spike on the second or third day they were in the tank, so I did a 25% water change and added a few small black lava rocks in the filter and tank floor. I have had 0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrites ever since, and been slowly adding fish.


Here is the problem... My PH is at 8 and I want to add Ottos.

The PH thing started just a few days after I set up the tank. I was surprised since I thought it might drop a bit during cycle or because of the peat and fluorite (I was counting on that in fact), but not go up. I discovered the culprit.. I think.
My top layer of substrate is now a black commercially available sand that says it is safe for fresh and saltwater aquariums. However, the FIRST time I set up the tank I used Calcite gravel sold for saltwater aquariums (I though was beautiful and would still look good when it settled into the gray bigger gravel, AND I wasn't paying attention). This of course drove my 7.6 water to 8.0 in no time. So I took down the tank, and tried to remove as much of the Calcite as I could without taking off my expensive fluorite mix layer, I think I got all but about one or two cups of it, which is dispersed through out the tank.
SO... I bring the tank back up (ie 100% water change) and within a few days the PH is back up to 8.0.

Do I have a choice other than tanking the whole thing down throwing out the expensive fluorite mixed gravel to get rid of the Calcite and starting over?

How long would it take for the little bit of Calcite that is left to diminish in it's ability to drive up PH... How quickly does it dissolve and go away? If it is not touching the water directly but is buried under an inch of sand dose that make a difference?

Is there something else that could be going on. Some cycle related thing? Or could the black sand be bad too? Could it be the play sand (I used it per instructions I found on several pretty in depth internet planted aquarium sites, so I am inclined to think not). Any other ideas?

I really don't want to take the aquarium down again, but most of the fish in there will not be healthy in 8.0 for long.
 
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most of the fish in there will not be healthy in 8.0 for long.
actually, they'll be fine. the vast majority of fish in the hobby today are not wild caught but rather, are bred in ponds, breeding vats and large tanks using local water. these fish have not seen the chemistry of their native waters for generations and are acclimated to whatever the local water happens to be. thus, they'll acclimate to whatever your tank ph is as long as it's stable.
 
I would agree that most fish will be fine in that ph. You might have a problem with the otos, but you would probably have a problem with them no matter what your water chemistry. There isn't much of a consensus within the hobby on what makes these guys so difficult for some people to keep. I would think the remaining calcite would eventually become covered with biofilm and lose it's effectiveness, but I have no idea how long that would take. My "cichlid sand" continues to buffer my water up into the low 8's a year after I started the tank, but I have alot more of it than you do.
 
My water gets into the 8s pH in my uninjected tanks and I have otos in them. I've had them in there for almost a year. Don't worry about pH so much.

IMO and IME they are either sick and beyond hope when you buy them or they starve to death very quickly. I went through a LOT of otos with my first tank last year.

I set my 45g up and it promptly developed a HUGE wack of diatoms all over. I moved a few otos in there, drove to MD and picked up 7 more. Those 7 otos were in VERY bad shape. Extremely thin and sickly looking.

When I got home I took one look at the QT tank and one look at the brown 45g with two older otos and put them in the 45g.

ONE, that was very pale when I put him in, died overnight. The rest took a day to get their bearings and then they began to eat. They have been in there for about a month and a half now and are fat as all get out.

People buy otos and put them in tanks with little or no algae and they either die right away or very soon. These guys have to have algae to eat at first -- lots of it. They aren't going to live long enough to learn to eat regular veggies and wafers.

Oh, and my 45 is almost spotless now and I'm starting to introduce veggies for them to learn to eat.

Just my 2 cents.

Roan
 
WOW, thanks everyone! That is a good point about how these days fish are more likely to be acclimated to the breeder tanks they grew up in. I read something to this effect about Discus the other day... how the days of impossibly sensitive wild caught discus are gone, but we pretend that that is still how things are. I don't and wont have any discus, just enjoying the read and looking for PH /KH/ GH info.

I am resisting the CO2 cult as long as I can, but I had some peat left over from the substrate and dropped it in the filter in a stocking. The PH has come down to about 7.6 from 8.0 over about 24 hours. I thought that was A LOT for one day, so I moved it to just floating in the tank... but all in all I took it as a good sign that the Calcite will not plague my life for ever! Of course now my water is all brownish, so I had to add some activated carbon (which I don't usually use much of.. I tend to rely much more heavily on the bio and mechanical part of the filter, plus water changes).

I know what you mean about Ottos. I went through four before getting two to live in my 5.5 even with plenty of algae to eat. Now of course they are very resilent and active, but I have kept the PH a bit low for the guppies because I thought they would suffer over 7.5 (given that 7.0 is thier stated limit). Given what you all have said, I think I will add a bit of my unsoftened well water in the next few water changes until I get it a bit closer to the hard water the guppies like (I usually use the inside softened water with a PH of about 7.4, Mod GH, and High KH). They were shipped to me from a breeder in Florida, and they are GEORGOUS but too pricey to do again if they take ill and don't make it. Got to at least get to the females having babies part to continue the line. Of course if everyone lives, I will have to sell the babies to my LFS, where they have said that they would LOVE to have show quailty moscow green-blues and 1/2 black blues to sell.

I can tell that the 5.5 Ottos enjoy the fresh veggies I add from time to time, but it is obvious to me that algae is thier main diet. Although they also nibble on the cory's waffers a bit.

I have been waiting for the algae to get going and to be sure that all the parameters have stabalized in the 37 before adding Ottos for all the reasons you all mentioned. But I think on the algae front it is about time. I inherited an anubis that had shot runners and grown like crazy in it's old owner's tank, but also came with an unhealthy covering of algae on it's leaves. I can't wait to have a nice psuedo-school of these cuties in the bigger tank. Even in a pair in the 5.5 they mostly stay together, especially when they are resting.

I am still open to other ideas, BTW
 
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This was posted by FishingAgain in the Newbie Forum...
I just did a search on the net and here is an excerpt from an article I found at http://www.cs.duke.edu/~narten/faq/chemistry.html
General hardness (GH) refers to the dissolved concentration of magnesium and calcium ions. When fish are said to prefer "soft" or "hard" water, it is GH (not KH) that is being referred to.
Note: GH, KH and pH form the Bermuda's Triangle of water chemistry. Although the three properties are distinct, they all interact with each other to varying degrees, making it difficult to adjust one without impacting the other. That is one reason why beginning aquarists are advised NOT to tamper with these parameters unless absolutely necessary. As an example, "hard" water frequently often comes from limestone aquifers. Limestone contains calcium carbonate, which when dissolved in water increases both the GH (from calcium) and KH (from carbonate) components. Increasing the KH component also usually increases pH as well. Conceptually, the KH acts as a "sponge" absorbing the acid present in the water, raising the water's pH.

Thank you to FishingAgain for really doing his homework! I had read all this before when I was dealing with my unsoftened water with high GH (our well water, while the Water Softener was broken for a while...blahh), but I guess I never really fully got the holistic relationship. I thought that GH and KH were both measures of hardness. I never understood the statement that KH is a measure of general alkalinity before...

I also did a quick search and reread some of the sites I had read before with my new agenda of understanding KH and found....

°KH - Buffering capacity, temporary or carbonate hardness. The 'K' in KH comes from the German word 'karbonate'. KH is a measure of bicarbonate and carbonate ions that act as buffers to prevent the pH dropping. The ions that make up KH can be removed by boiling. KH makes up a component of GH, so boiling will also reduce GH slightly. quoted from http://www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk/pfk/pages/show_article.php?article_id=22

I get it now. GH is the "hardness" that certain fish need to be high or low. KH is how much buffer (or buffering minerals, I guess would be more exact) is in the water. PH is how much acid is in the water. If the KH is very high the buffers will removing all the acid and the PH will also stay high... ie Alkaline.

So that is the solution to my PH problem I think. We have a water softener so the GH is fine, but my KH is off the scale of my test kits! I didn't realize that high KH was an issue, and I was so focused on the idea that my stupid mistake with the Calcite was the problem. But if the residual Calcite was the problem, the GH/hardness should have been rising too,right? ... and it wasn't. I feel stupid now that I get it. (Of course I am open to the possibility that I still don't get it, and I am missing something.. if so please chime in). I know some buffers only absorb acid above a certain range and therefor hold PH fairly steady, but it seems that the mineral or amount of it that is measuring as a high KH in my water just keeps absorbing acid and driving the PH up to 8.5 or higher... is that possible?

I think to keep my PH from continuing to rise (which it started doing again even with the peat), I need some RO water to get the KH closer to reasonable levels.... I know, I know slowly so as not to shock the fish. [/b}

To the others who said don't worry about the PH, I agree that agonizing over every .1 is silly, but just acclimating fish from my family owned LSF's 6.8 soft (for ottos, tetras, and cories) to my 8.0 (now reaching 8.4) has proved harrowing.. I would guess that most breeders are not raising these fish in above 8.0 water.

Thanks to everyone for your help
 
I'm of the opinion that Ph doesn't matter at all as long as it's stable and not extreme. I think it can matter if you're trying to breed, but beyond that it's not a factor to be worried about as long as it's stable. As for otos, I've never had much luck w/then or found anyone who has. I don't know exactly why that is, but it seems to be the way of the world.
 
high ph = more algae growth.
 
guppies preferr alkaline water.. thats why you dont see too many guppies in planted tanks
lowest i had my tnak was 5.8 with peat moss
 
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