Phosphates gone Mad!

[wesleydnunder]

So the contention is, bba comes solely from too much light. I disagree. Keeping the co2 steady at 30ppm along WITH lowering light levels will fix it, provided that ferts are in balance. While wpg may not be the best gauge for T5HO, I believe cutting the light by 1/3 for most of the photoperiod will, in conjunction with keeping co2 at a steady 30 ppm, solve his bba problem, once he eliminates it from the tank.

However, I'm just suggesting what has worked for me and others over the 40-odd years I've been doing this.

You seem to take it as a personal affront if someone disagrees with you, coach. How's that workin' out for ya?



Mark

 

[coach_z]

I agree that fluctuating co2 levels will cause bba (i said that in my very first post in this thread), but also very high light situations where you cant get the co2 to the proper level will cause it too. IMHO, this is mainly a too much light issue and can be solves very simply by lowering the amount of light (remove bulb), or raising the light fixture.

A personal affront when someone disagrees with me? no. When someone IMHO is incorrect I'll let them know. The poster has too much light, simple as that and it is causing much issues.

I have already proven it to myself that sustained levels of po4 @ 10ppm does not yield any negative results. With no other changes to my tank, it eradicated my GSA in a matter of days. I have kept it there for several years now. Many here will agree, we have discussed it thoroughly. Removing or limiting ferts is never a good way to fix a problem. Regarding the light, it is a matter of fact that WPG is wrong, and that T5HO and WPG are not even a good way to make a baseline for determining the amount of light on a tank. The poster has too much light. Also, many of your other 'suggestions' are simply band-aids that dont fix the problem. the poster will end up eradicating algae for the rest of his/her life instead of enjoying his/her tank with only 2 t5ho bulbs over it.

 

[dundadundun]

hmmm.... good points by both. both seem to agree on adjusting light and having steady co2. i agree there too...

excel, glut, etc. have their advantages... might help bridge the gap in co2 fluctuations as well as kill off small bits of algae long enough for the OP to figure out his tank... or for the plants to fill in enough to handle the load themselves... but lack of these things aren't the problem.

h2o2 is pretty much harmless if used correctly since it quickly turns into o2.

bleach goes nowhere near any of my plants aquatic or terrestrial... especially roots. that's my personal choice, i guess.

regardless of all this information i know for a fact i can have a successful planted tank with absolutely no carbon supplementation at all AND 10ppm phosphates with 2 t5ho bulbs mounted 20" above the substrate... and no visible/noticeable algae to speak of... i have examples running as we speak.

i think we need to take a look at this tank. i suspect not only is the lighting too intense for the OPs experience level but also the tank isn't filled out enough to adsorb all that light. i suspect co2 was compromised at some point and with high lighting and sparse planting ::maybe other things slightly off also:: have given the algae the upper hand now that it's got a foothold.

 

[andyjh]

Just to clarify, "battling bba" meant that I've got it on some of the usual spots, slow growing plant leaves such as java fern, and stationary objects like driftwood and some rock. It hasn't completely taken over the tank, and the purpose of the post was to find some measures to keep it at bay and NOT have it take over the tank. I've successfully used hydrogen peroxide directly as spot treatment, but could certainly try using only two of my three bulbs in the fixture to not overlight it. I know I read somewhere that I could probably crank up the CO2 a little more, being careful not to overdo it and harm the fish. This tank has been running well over a year now so definitely falls under the category of "established". Thanks.

 

[coach_z]

You might be able to turn up the co2 a bit but just be careful. Are you using 4dKH water in your drop checker? I know that a lot of instructions for DCs say to use tank water, but in all honesty that yields a rather questionable co2 reading. 4dKH is the way to go.