platy problems

Flavius said:
It's hard to decide who to follow. OrionGirl suggested on her first posts that water is too hard, and it was indeed 220. Now you say it's OK. By the book it should be 60. Why all this science then if we don't follow it?
Well, with it this high, water changes should lower it. Try using RO, Reverse Osmosis, water, that should lower it. You can purchase this at either your local fish store or Grocery store. This is very neutral water, so your ph and hardness should be fine.


Flavius said:
Guy at the store adviced salt is good once a month. Besides that, there were no chemicals added except the tap water conditioner, which I believe everyone uses and the pH reducer once a month maybe. Yesterday I indeed used the softener pillow, but that's far after my problems started. Is there any way to avoid any chemical? As far as I know boiling won't eliminate chlorine and chloramine.
Freshwater fish do not need salt in their water, it causes problems in the long run. Freshwater fish lives in Freshwater and never ever sees any salt. Over time, this causes problems to the fish and its organs.

Who said I didn't change the water? 25-30% boiled/treated water every 2 weeks.

There is no need to boil your water, just treat it normally, I recommend Amquel. Its a very good and tested water treater.

In my understanding stress does not cause a bacterial infection. Correct me if I'm wrong.

Stress, will cause even humans to come down and get very sick with the simpliest of infections. It does very bad things to humans and animals alike. But you are correct, stress doesnt cause an infection, it just gives the animal a low immune system where it can die.

Now if all the bacteria in the tank are dead, how comes the fish didn't cure? Is there any medication that is known to be working?
Not all bacteria dies easily, i was being a little extreme there, but the odds are all the bad bacteria is still alive and the good is dead. That is why you never want to treat a reef tank with antibiotics, bad mojo..
 
Thanks, that clarifies a bit.
 
I have one last concern: doing frequent water changes won't eliminate the bad bacteria, they'll always have time to catch up between water changes. Now total water change is not adviceable and it won't help anyway, as bacteria might survive on plants, gravel and filters. I'm just thinking to start over again with a new tank then move the fish only, and nothing else, from the old tank to the new one. How about that?
 
Flavius said:
I have one last concern: doing frequent water changes won't eliminate the bad bacteria, they'll always have time to catch up between water changes. Now total water change is not adviceable and it won't help anyway, as bacteria might survive on plants, gravel and filters. I'm just thinking to start over again with a new tank then move the fish only, and nothing else, from the old tank to the new one. How about that?
well, I think you would be fine with the old tank. See the bad stuff is always in your tank. Its always thriving and living. Sometimes you do introduce new stuff into the tank but alot of times, its already there. Its just that your fishs' immune system is low and that is when they get sick.
 
Flavius said:
OrionGirl suggested on her first posts that water is too hard, and it was indeed 220. Now you say it's OK. By the book it should be 60. Why all this science then if we don't follow it?

Re-read what I wrote. I never indicated that the water was too hard, nor that you should change it. I simply stated that you should KNOW those readings, as it helps determine if the water will sustain a stable pH.

2nd--'bacterial' problems only become such when the fish are stressed to the point where they can't resist the infection. There is no such thing as 'bad' bacteria--there are constantly present bacteria that can become pathogenic when other issues allow them to do so. The stress from the temp, and the crowding certainly qualify. Addressing those issues and alleviating the stress will allow the fish to be healthier and deal with the infection.
 
I wasn't trying to blame and eventually it doesn't matter what one sais. The fact is that the hardness was 3 times higher than recommended, so I used the softener for a few hours to bring it down a bit and posted here prior to that. I didn't notice any sign of stress, moreover I didn't see the fish scratching against objects anymore. So it might have helped actually.

But, I've got the point. No chemicals except for the conditioner, RO water if possible, q-tank. Thanks everyone for the advices.

Anyway, is there anything that can be done in the stage when an infection becomes acute? My last sick fish, a goldie, still fights in the q-tank. A few days ago it was floating upside down, but since yesterday it swims and eats normally. But still has fungus, fin rot and septicemia.
 
Flavius said:
Anyway, is there anything that can be done in the stage when an infection becomes acute? My last sick fish, a goldie, still fights in the q-tank. A few days ago it was floating upside down, but since yesterday it swims and eats normally. But still has fungus, fin rot and septicemia.
keep in the Q tank with normal treatment, I would also feed him food laced with Garlic.
 
Flavius said:
Who said I didn't change the water? 25-30% boiled/treated water every 2 weeks.


Perhaps it would help if you upped this to once or twice a week? Certainly wouldn't hurt.
 
tricksterpup said:
keep in the Q tank with normal treatment, I would also feed him food laced with Garlic.

How is this lacing done exactly?
 
Problemes never seem to end. Adult platy with the bent spine just vanished, ick on all 3 platy babies. I was reading the ich article, mentions that salt is OK with the carbon filter. What about the ammonia filter? Can I keep it in as well?
 
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