PLEASE HELP!!! 2 Aquarium problems

Charise

Charise

AC Members
Apr 9, 2008
91
0
0
Boondocks, Pennsylvania
Hi Everyone,
So I have a problem with both my fish tanks. Here's the background info:

We have a 10 Gallon in my girls' room, and a 15 gallon in our room.

About 2 months ago, I set them both up with water and let the filters run for about 2 weeks. Then I *thought* (I know, I know..bad me) the tanks were okay for fish, so I went and bought 3 goldfish for my girls' tank. Within a week, one died. So I "returned" him and bought another one, plus 2 plants. Then another one of the original fish's died. I then discovered ich on the newest fish, so I transitioned him to the 15 gallon and treated both tanks. The "ich fish" died within a few days. Then I discovered that the last fish had ich, so I continued treating the tank, and alas, he died too.

I left the tanks running and just let them cycle. About 3 weeks after the last fish died, I discovered a snail who must've been a tag-along on the plants. I researched it, found it was an apple snail, and put him in our 15 gallon where there was more algae.

Then 2 weeks later we got a 4" Pleco in the 15 gall, and a 3" Pleco in the 10 gall. I tested the water this past Sunday, and both tanks were PERFECT.

So we went out to our LFS and bought 4 Mollies for the 10 gall, 1- 5" Elephant-nose, and 4- 1" Tiger Barbs for the 15 gall. On Monday night one of the Mollies had 10-15 fry (they move too darn fast to get a good count!). I've read that both the Elephant nose and the Molly fry "demand" good water quality, so I've been checking the levels. Here's the stats:

Tuesday:
10 Gallon:
pH: 7.2
Ammonia: .25 ppm
Nitrite:.5.0 ppm
Nitrate: 10 ppm

I then did a 10% water change and added AquaSafe to the water

Yesterday (Wednsday), I noticed the Elephant-nose was out of his log and in the dense plant area (which he usually would never go to with the light on, as per my 3 day observations!!!). I knocked on the glass and he didn't move. Then i banged on it. Nothing. I thought he was dead until I stuck my net in there and he moved. So I tested the water on both tanks:

Wednsday:
10 Gall:
Ammonia: 0 ppm
Nitrite:.50 ppm
Nitrate: 5.0 ppm

15 Gall:
pH: 6.8
Ammonia: .50 ppm
Nitrite: 1.0 ppm
Nitrate: 20 ppm

As soon as I saw the 15 gall stats I did a 15% water change (With AquaSafe), and sure enough, as soon as I added the new water, the elephant-nose was out and about eating the leftover brine shrimp that had popped up during the change. Then last night he was really active :grinyes:

So, here's my major dilemma:

Today I tested both tanks, and the stats again are:

10 Gall:
Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: .50
Nitrate: 5.0

15 Gall:
pH: 7.2 <----?????
Ammonia: 1.0
Nitrite: .50
Nitrate: 20

I was planning on doing a 10% change on both tanks...but my question is, ****will this hurt the cycle by doing it so often???***** I have Stress Zyme, and, obviously AquaSafe, also Ammonia Detox (which I don't think I need for now). I'm kind of freaking because my Elephant nose doesn't look very happy again. I already lost 2 fry, and I want to see at least 5 grow up (there's about 12 in there now)!!! (Yes, I know I need another, or a bigger, aquarium for them)...but anyway, what should I do???

Another 10% water change, or Stress Zyme, or let nature run it's course????
 
For starters...what kind of test kit...dip strips or liquid? Dip strips are highly unrelieable.

Second, what are the pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate readings on your tap water? The pH test should be done on a sample that has set out overnight in a shallow dish.

If doing a fishless cycle, the water changes could slow things down by limiting food.

With a fishy cycle such as yours, it is more important to prevent toxic conditions that can permannently harm the fish. Do water changes, 10-25%, whenever you see indication of amonia or nitrites, or nitrates over 20 ppm.
 
If you are using a liquid test kit and are sure of the numbers you are getting, its time for some very large water changes. 50% would not be at all out of line for a tank with nitrites at 1 ppm. If we look after the water, the fish will take care of themselves but we must take care of the water.
 
elephan noses are EXTREMELY sensative to water parameters. they need perfect water conditions. 0 ammoina and 0 nitrite (which is what it should be in a cycled tank), and very low nitrates. you need to do a series of 50% water changes to get the ammoina and nitrite down.

you will probably be better off taking back the elephant nose anyway, because it will greatly outgrow your tank.
 
Yes, the test kit is the liquid drops, not the test strips.

Does anyone know how fast the Elephant Nose's grow? We **have** to move out of here no later than 2 years from now (this isn't a "might" situation, my daughter's not going to school where we are at right now). I plan on setting up a 100+ gallon aquarium when we move. I don't want to do it yet because a) we don't have room, and b) how the heck would I move it anyway???

I'll check the tap water's conditions tomorrow, but right now I have 3 gallons of water that are distilled and have been sitting in hot water to make it warm enough (78 degrees) for my tank. So I guess I'll do a 20% change as soon as I'm done typing this.

Thanks everyone!!!
 
I actually didn't know that you could use plain 'ol tap water. That'll save me a lot of time though!!!!
 
Well, now that I'm thinking about it, this fish was in a 10 gallon tank with 2 other elephant nose's and 2 black ghost knife's at the pet shop. Now that's cramped!

But anyway, we'll see what happens.

I added AquaSafe and changed 6 gallons. Could I/Should I add Stress Zyme too since it was such a large change??? I've only ever done 10-15% changes.
 
The size of tank at the lfs should not be a guide to the size of tank you want to keep your fish. The fish will not be at the lfs for long where as it will grow in your tank.

I would do a 50% water change every 2-3 days. I won't use any chemical other than the water conditioner. I don't remember who it was but somebody here once said: IF IN DOUBT, WATER CHANGE!. Has worked for me so far.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
AquariaCentral.com
Top Bottom