PROJECT 210

  • Get the NEW AquariaCentral iOS app --> http://itunes.apple.com/app/id1227181058 // Android version will be out soon!

mcox3

Veritas Aequitas
Original poster
Dec 26, 2006
929
0
0
33
Phoenix, AZ
Okay, as some of you know, I recently purchased a 210g measuring 84x24x24, predrilled with 2 overflow boxes. It is going to house columbian sharks and monos.

In this thread you guys can follow along as I get this bad boy set up. From leak test to the final product.

Hopefully with your guys' input, I can achieve this without flaw. And seeing how i'm still learning everyday, all the input i can get will be greatly appreciated.

Check back for updates!

-wish me luck
 

mcox3

Veritas Aequitas
Original poster
Dec 26, 2006
929
0
0
33
Phoenix, AZ
okay, i have a question.

I want to run some plumbing to my aquarium, an IN and an OUT pipe for water changes. I think the best way to do this is through the wet dry filter.

I was thinking if i drain my W/D that would equal to about a 10% water change. Its a 30g. I could do this a few times a week or more if necessary.

First question: Would completely draining my w/d have any ill effect on bacteria in the filter?

Also, i could run a water pipe to the W/D to fill it back up. Add dechlorinator and circulate it back into the display tank.

Second question: Would adding tap water to my filter have any ill effect on bacteria?

I pretty much want to see if i can get around the old syphon and bucket method for water changes. Of course the gravel will have to be vac'd every so often.

I think i'm on the right track, but want to make sure i'm not missing something important.

Is there a more logical way of doing this? Does it sound to you like it would work this way?
 
Last edited:

12 Volt Man

AC Members
Feb 11, 2007
2,651
1
36
Ontario Canada
Question 1: no as long as they stay wet and are not left drained down to dry for a long time.

Question 2: depends. when we typically rinse filter media under the tap, the bacteria in our filter are only exposed to free chlorine and chlomamines for a short period of time (chlorine takes a long time to disinfect properly), so it generally has no ill effect.

its hard to say. It would depend on how long it takes to fill the tank back up if you are adding the new water directly to the filter and up into the tank.

If it is a few minutes, add some dechlor to the empy filter chamber first and you are probably fine.

if it is say, 10 minutes or longer, it could be an issue.

but it is hard to give a number.

For reference, chlorine applied to drinking water here in ontario is in contact with the water for a minimum of 20 minutes before leaving the plant, it takes time to work.

now, it is true that nitrifiying bacteria are more sensitive than say, fecal E.Coli, which is what the water plant is concerned about.

How long do you think it would take to fill the tank?
 

mcox3

Veritas Aequitas
Original poster
Dec 26, 2006
929
0
0
33
Phoenix, AZ
i'd say it be rather quick... i need about 2100 gph, so my pump in the wet dry was going to be around that size in power and i'll also need a diverter valve to pump the water into my backyard...

so 30 gallons would be pumped in about a min. or so and then just the time it takes to pour in my 30ml of dechlorinator and then pump 30 gallons back in.

I'd say closer to 5 min.
 

Star_Rider

AC Moderators
Staff member
Dec 21, 2005
11,731
1
38
62
Spanaway, Wa.
Real Name
Ed
see, saltwater people add new water to their sumps all the time, which usually contain their filters.

however, most synthetic salts dechlorine the water, so the water they are adding has no chlorine in it.
actually, many of us SW people use RO/DI water so there is NO chlorine in the water and very little of anything else. we use synthetic salt to add back what is removed and hopefully in the right amounts(hint use high quality synthetic mix)

I persinally add the new water mix to the sump which pumps it into the maintank. my tank is 110 gal with a 30 gal refugium..do the mix is dilluted by the time it get to the main tank where it dilutes even more. but we try and get the mix so it measures exact specific gravity of the main tank..but if it is a bit off it doesn't make a lot of diff as long as it is close. ie sg 1.025 normal mix may be slightly lower or higher.


I run a diverter in the sump to keep the sump running so i don't have to prime the pump.

you could easily run the diverter out thru a barbed fitting and run vinyl hose to the yard..the probem you will only be able to drain the main tank up to the overflow. personally I prefer not to run the sump dry( I have one on my 75 discus tank) as the main pump is a PIA to prime and running them dry is not good.

the water lubes the bushings in them.

my preference is to run a siphon out to the yard but if you have to go uphill that won't work.



as far as the bacteria..they will be fineas the water changes don't take a bunchof time.
 

mcox3

Veritas Aequitas
Original poster
Dec 26, 2006
929
0
0
33
Phoenix, AZ
***UPDATE***

I'd been testing the tank for leaks for a few days now and she holds like a champ. I'm almost done laying down the floor in my family room, so the next step is to finish cleaning her out and building the stand.

 

Rbishop

...and over the edge.
Staff member
Dec 30, 2005
40,298
289
143
65
Real Name
Mr. Normal
Keep the media wet and minimize the time it is drained. I add straight to the tank all the time with prime and have not experienced any issues.

What are your stand plans?
 
zoomed.com
hikariusa.com
aqaimports.com
Store