Pvc
- Thread starter got_nailed
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There is some type of 90 that isn't so abrupt, it's longer and a smoother radius. I can't think of the name off hand, but it is equivalent to ~3or4 feet of pipe instead of a 90 which = 20'. I'm not sure if they make it for 1/2" pipe since we only use 2 1/2" pipe when we do the plumbing in pools.
actually, using two 45 degree fittings with a few inches of separation in between does significantly reduce back pressure versus a 90 degree elbow. Two 45 degree fittings with little or no straight pipe between them, however, isn't much different than a 90 degree elbow in terms of back pressure. And 'sanitary bend' elbows are not available in anything smaller than 1 1/2" I think, because nobody ever uses anything smaller for residential drain pipe.
The long sweep 90 degree elbows that you are referring to ARE in fact available in all sizes of PVC pipe down to 1/2" 'trade size' in both Schedule 40 and Schedule 80 wall thickness. However, they're hard to find at plumbing supply houses since they are actually classified as a 'PVC electrical conduit sweep elbow', which you're much more likely to find at a local electrical supply house. One online source is http://doityourself.com/store/6552616.htm (you can search around for the other pipe sizes).
Long sweep 90 degree PVC conduit elbows create far less back pressure than either a standard 90 degree elbow or two 45 degree fittings with or without straight pipe in between. They're not very expensive either, and if you are planning on having several elbows in your system plumbing, using the long sweep PVC conduit elbows will result in a significant improvement in your overall flow rate.
As for PVC glue I like to use CLEAR primer plus CLEAR glue, which are available at all big home supply places if you look carefully at the labels. Any glue products which are safe for drinking water piping are safe for aquarium use. However, some primers and glues have pigment added which can leave a technicolor mess after gluing, which is no big deal in a basement but potentially looks awful around an aquarium.
It's also supposedly possible to 'dye' the outside of PVC pipe any really dark color, by mixing ink with clear PVC 'cleaner' solvent or clear PVC primer and pouring/soaking/wiping down the whole pipe assembly with the ink mixture after initial pipe joint gluing and drying has been completed. The pipe assembly needs to be set aside to dry again after dyeing though, then rinse super thoroughly. Disclaimer : I haven't personally tried this. However, dyeing sounds like a lot better alternative than trying to paint the outside of PVC pipe with epoxy paint because of the risk of paint flaking/chipping.
If you're looking to wind up with a real 'showpiece' result, and if you don't mind spending a few extra dollars to achieve it, dark black fiberglass reinforced FDA grade polypropylene pipe, pipe and hose fittings, bulkhead fittings, and valves are also available in all pipe sizes. One online source is http://www.beevalve.com/Bee_Valve_NavCat.pdf (go to page 34 for starters)
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The long sweep 90 degree elbows that you are referring to ARE in fact available in all sizes of PVC pipe down to 1/2" 'trade size' in both Schedule 40 and Schedule 80 wall thickness. However, they're hard to find at plumbing supply houses since they are actually classified as a 'PVC electrical conduit sweep elbow', which you're much more likely to find at a local electrical supply house. One online source is http://doityourself.com/store/6552616.htm (you can search around for the other pipe sizes).
Long sweep 90 degree PVC conduit elbows create far less back pressure than either a standard 90 degree elbow or two 45 degree fittings with or without straight pipe in between. They're not very expensive either, and if you are planning on having several elbows in your system plumbing, using the long sweep PVC conduit elbows will result in a significant improvement in your overall flow rate.
As for PVC glue I like to use CLEAR primer plus CLEAR glue, which are available at all big home supply places if you look carefully at the labels. Any glue products which are safe for drinking water piping are safe for aquarium use. However, some primers and glues have pigment added which can leave a technicolor mess after gluing, which is no big deal in a basement but potentially looks awful around an aquarium.
It's also supposedly possible to 'dye' the outside of PVC pipe any really dark color, by mixing ink with clear PVC 'cleaner' solvent or clear PVC primer and pouring/soaking/wiping down the whole pipe assembly with the ink mixture after initial pipe joint gluing and drying has been completed. The pipe assembly needs to be set aside to dry again after dyeing though, then rinse super thoroughly. Disclaimer : I haven't personally tried this. However, dyeing sounds like a lot better alternative than trying to paint the outside of PVC pipe with epoxy paint because of the risk of paint flaking/chipping.
If you're looking to wind up with a real 'showpiece' result, and if you don't mind spending a few extra dollars to achieve it, dark black fiberglass reinforced FDA grade polypropylene pipe, pipe and hose fittings, bulkhead fittings, and valves are also available in all pipe sizes. One online source is http://www.beevalve.com/Bee_Valve_NavCat.pdf (go to page 34 for starters)
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I was planning on using ½ SEC 40 PVC but you’ll are right I do need to go with ¾ PVC. It will be for 2 smaller canister filters so there is not going to be too much GPM that I’m dealing with.
I was planning on 2 input and 2 output tubes on either side of the tank. The one side will have 3 90* elbows and the other one will have 4 elbows. I’m planning on putting T fittings to link the inlet and outlet pipes with a shut off valve so they can be isolated when needed.
I do want do use black pipe or painting the PVC. The dying of the PVC will work.
I will need to do some calling around to find the stuff I need.
I was planning on 2 input and 2 output tubes on either side of the tank. The one side will have 3 90* elbows and the other one will have 4 elbows. I’m planning on putting T fittings to link the inlet and outlet pipes with a shut off valve so they can be isolated when needed.
I do want do use black pipe or painting the PVC. The dying of the PVC will work.
I will need to do some calling around to find the stuff I need.
3/4" 'trade size' PVC should work great. I'm also very curious to hear how your attempts at dying the outside surface of the PVC pipe comes out, if you choose to do so. Using black polypro pipe and fittings solves the surface color problem and it is definitely top quality stuff, but at a fairly significant price premium.
For what I want to do I’m looking at needing…
20’ pipe
8 90*
6 T
2 cutoffs
Reducing fittings for the filters
But i don’t want to spend over $40
20’ pipe
8 90*
6 T
2 cutoffs
Reducing fittings for the filters
But i don’t want to spend over $40
I still think 1/2" is plenty, especially for a small canister filter. I have 1/2" piping to both my eheim 2217 and my fluval 304 and both have really good flow rates.
Can PVC be gently heated (either with boiling water, steam or a torch) and bent into the desired shape?
You can torch PVC but you will need to use thick walled PVC for this. But you can not bend it more than about 22* with out having problems down the road.
Yes you can heat and bend PVC pipe. However, the risk is that the side walls tend to collapse during the bending process unless a forming tool is used. The pre-bent electrical conduit elbows sold by Carlon are formed using a metal spring or something similar inserted down the ID of the pipe during the bending process to make sure that the inside of the bent pipe is still round not flattened.
