Question regarding canister filters?

SubluxT7

SubluxT7

Biology Major
Jul 29, 2006
351
0
0
45
Virginia Beach, VA
Real Name
Sandra
Hi,

I'm planning to do a 55gallon FW planted tank. I want to get a canister filter for it (price is really not a problem). Problem is, the best turnover rate I can find is about 6x. Do you need as much of a turnover rate with canisters as with HOB..or is it different? I'm looking right now at the Rena XP3, which is suppose to put out 350 gph. I cant find a model which turns out more than that, even the eheims I have seen dont have this turnover rate. Anyone with aquatic plant experience no what I should do here? I dont plant have have an overly large bioload (just what my tank can realistically handle), but from what I understand the plants take care of some of the problem, so maybe there is no need to have such a high water turnover rate?

Sandy
 
I hate to do this but BUMP. Ide really like an answer you guys (it seems now adays I cant get an answer on this forum for the life of me).
 
An Eheim 2028 will be fine.

I only use Eheim myself but lots of people like the Rena's so I'd imagine either will be great.

I'd take the manufacturers stated output with a pinch of salt there are far to many variables.
 
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The biggest difference with a cannister filter is the amount of media through which the water must travel. So you really don't need to compare flow rates, outside of them creating a current in your tank.

so if a HOB filter were to pump 350 gph, you'd be taking the water through a couple of inches of media, with a cannister it would probably be closer to a foot of media. There's more chance for mechanical filtration to work, you have more options for media, etc. etc. etc.

I personally don't look at flow rate of filters (I know... shame on me) but will normally pay more attention to the size of tank the filter's recommended for and then halve that number.

for the record I have an XP3 on a 90g, one on a 72g tank and an XP1 on a 37. I haven't been disappointed. I wouldn't think you'd need an XP3, an XP2 should suffice. But it is nice to have 50% more space for filter media, if the water flow should be too much, you can always use the flow controller or use the spraybar with a couple of the spraybar extensions to slow the water down.


:)
 
It depends what you mean by planted tank. You mean a fish tank with some plants? Or a planted tank with some fish?

For a planted tank you actually don't want alot of circulation because you're focused on maintaining high CO2 levels. High circulation fights your goal.

Otherwise, there's the Fluval FX5 @ 16.8 turn over rate.
 
Wibber said:
For a planted tank you actually don't want alot of circulation because you're focused on maintaining high CO2 levels. High circulation fights your goal.
Click to expand...
Could you expand on this ?

I was always under the impression that the problem was surface agitation causing as exchange between the tank water and the atmosphere, lowering the CO2 level in the tank, or causing the need for more CO2 to be injected to keep the tank level as high as required.
 
SubluxT7 said:
I hate to do this but BUMP. Ide really like an answer you guys (it seems now adays I cant get an answer on this forum for the life of me).
Click to expand...

The never ending filter question. :cool:

Let me confuse you some more. With the opposite view of dougall, I never look at the tank size the filter can handle, just the flow rate. I cut it in half from what they say the filter can do. Those rates are at ideal positioning of the filter and no media in them. Then I shoot for 6-10 times the tank volume, in gallons per hour.

I am a devout Mag 350 canister user for 30 years. My 55s' have one, the 75 and90s' have two and the 125 has three. Some of them have bio-wheels, all the tanks have RUGF with two or more power heads.

Too much flow or surface agitation? Use spray bars to redirect. Too much current for some fish? Redirect/slow down with proper positioning of decorations.

I prefer the canister for more volume of media as compared to HOB.

I am also of the opinion as dougall you minimze the surface agitation to limit CO2 gas off on a planted tank, but can see how some plants may not take high flow/currents well or even be damaging and possible unattractive.
 
Surface agitation is only a problem if the tank is CO2 injected. You can still have high current with little surface agitation, but you will find a surface scum forming that you will need to take care of.

In a non CO2 injected tank have as much surface agitation as you want since you are only increasing the amount of gas exchange, thus bringing in not only new O2 gas but also plenty of new CO2 gas.
 
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