Questions about mini-cycle

cbatusf

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Dec 17, 2006
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Tampa, FL
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Hi all!

I'm new to the fish hobby. I upgraded my five gallon aquarium with two cory catfish to a ten gallon 5 days ago and have been doing all of the research I can with the help of a local aquarium store and the internet about water chemestry and keeping my fish as happy and healthy as possible.

When I got the ten gallon, I transferred the gravel and decor from the five gallon into the ten without rinsing it in order to keep the bacteria. I didn't keep the filter media because I didn't learn of keeping it until after I already put it into the garbage. My mistake! Regardless, after I set up the ten gallon, I tested my water and surprisingly found the water levels where they should be, except the pH was 6.4. I read that that level was ok for my corys, so I wasn't too concerned. I added "Proper pH 7.0" buffer and "Cycle" into the water.

Two days later, I went to the aquarium store and asked if they thought my tank was ready for new fish. They said that as long as the levels were ok to go for it! I wanted just a couple fish so that my tank wouldn't go into a mini-cycle. When looking for fish I wanted, the guy at the store suggested a Pleco bottomfeeder to keep algae in check. I agreed then decided to go for two Congo Tetras. The guy put three in the bag. I said, "Hold on, I asked for only two." He said, "I'm giving you one for free." I asked, "But won't that throw off my water levels?" He shook his head and said, "Naaah." So, I left with a total of four fish.

I checked the water levels when I put the fish in, and everything was slightly off. The ammonia was at .25, the Nitrate was at 5.0, the pH was at 6.6, and the nitrite was at 0 ppm.

I just checked the levels right now (two days later after I put them in), and everything is getting worse.
Ammonia: .25
Nitrite: .25
pH: 6.6
Nitrate: 10

It's normal for the levels to get out of wack after adding new fish, right? Obviously, I added too many fish at once, so the cycle started again, correct? Is 6 fish too many for my ten gallon? Is there anything I could do to help or quicken the cycle or should I let it stablize on it's own?

Thank you so much for your help! I really appreciate it!
~Courtney
 
Also, I have a water heater and the temperature is at 79 degrees. I have a "Whisper Power Filter" that came with aquarium. If you need any other info from me, feel free to ask!
 
you shocked your tank

ushually when you move materials from one tank to another, like in your case 5gal -> 10 gal the 10 gal only has what the 5 gal has in terms of capabilities.. you need to "add another 5 gal capability" into your tank.. that means more bacteria to handle the fish load.

-when you moved the tank.. did you add tap water and then conditioned it?... because you might have killed your colonies with the clorine.
(bacteria can survive out of water for a while so its ok to move them around)

- add bio-spira or superbac asap that will bring down the ammonia and nitrite.. the nitrate wil have to be done with a water change
 
Oh, I see. I remember seeing Bio-Spira at the aquarium store, so I'll definitely pick some up tomorrow and do a water change. Change 20% of the water?

I buy water directly from the aquarium store because the men there say that the tap water in this area has so much chlorine that it could kill a small horse, and that adding a dechlorinator wouldn't take all the chlorine out of it. I'm not sure how true that is, but I'm not taking any chances. Plus, it's only .60 cents a gallon; Not too bad, right? Anyway, they say that I don't have to add anything to it.

Thanks for your help!
 
a water change would be helpful

the water there is most likely RO and hes trying o get money from you :/.. Ro or reverse osmosis its just straight water.. no minerals or things that the fish need.. i suggest you go to a normal "people" drinking water place and buy it there.


(try to get Superbac.. it seems to still be new so you might have trouble finding it... bio-spira is good but you have to get the small satchet that treats 20 gallons.... just dump the whole thing in there..no overdose to worry about)
 
Change just 20%? Do I test the water immediately after changing it to see if the nitrates are where they should be, and if not, replace more?
 
cbat...

What are the ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH and GH/KH of your tap water?

There shouldn't be any reason for buying water from the LFS and don't use bottled water.

You don't need bio spira or super bac....you just need to let your bacteria level catch up to your fish load.

Do water changes to maintain ammonia and nitrites at zero and nitates below 20.

Get a bottle of prime to treat your tap water. If you have been buying water from the LFS, I doubt it had chlorine in it and that it killed your bacteria.

Moving the substrate over can cause spikes because you stir up and break apart some of the waste that was in it, and it is now out in the water column, re settles and is finishing decomposing.
 
I tested the tap water:
pH: 7.4
Ammonia: 1.0
Nitrite: 0ppm
Nitrate: 0ppm
My master test kit doesn't test GH/KH. What it is it and is it essential that I test it?

Seachem Prime can be purchased from Petsmart, correct? I do add it with every water change?

Thanks so much!
 
What is Water Hardness and Why is it important?

KH - Specifications

Carbonate Hardness (KH)

Carbonate hardness (also known as alkalinity) is the measure of carbonate (CO3--) and bicarbonate (HC03-) ion concentrations dissolved in water. These minerals are present in municipal, well, and bottled spring water. The level of carbonate hardness in tap and bottled water depends on the source of the water and the treatment processes it has undergone. Carbonate hardness helps stabilize pH in the aquarium. An aquarium with a low KH level (50 PPM or less) will tend to be acidic. Aquariums with very low KH are subject to rapid pH shifts, if not monitored carefully. Water with a high KH level(>= 200 PPM) usually has a high pH.

GH - Specifications

General Hardness (GH)

General hardness is the measure of calcium (CA++) and magnesium (MG++) ion concentrations dissolved in water. These minerals are present in municipal, well, and bottled spring water. The level of general hardness in the tap and bottled water depends on the source of the water and the treatment process it has undergone. Hard water (>= 200 PPM) is high in calcium and magnesium, while soft water (50 to 100 PPM) is low in these minerals.
What levels are acceptable?

(17.9 to 71.6 PPM) Very soft water
(89.5 to 143.2 PPM) Soft Water
(161.1 to 214.8 PPM) Medium Hard
(232.7 to 322.2 PPM) Fairly Hard
(340.1 to 537 PPM) Hard
537 PPM +) Very hard

info borrowed from http://members.aol.com/tjccooper/FishExample/WaterHardnessinformation.htm
 
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