Couldn't you use the Fluval 405 to filter if there's no live rock? That would just need sponges, which he may not have thought important enough to mention.
Red Slime Algae Help!!
- Thread starter cicrush13
- Start date
This is why I asked. I didn't see anything like that in the contents.
It sounds like the canister should be cleaned more often.
I didn't see an answer to flow in the tank besides the canister?
Using RO/DI should help.
Now I know why you wanted to bleach the rock. If you want to uses the rock again, simply consider recycling the rock in a rubbermaid tub with a pump/powerhead and a heater. Using phosphate media on the tub may be in order if you think the dry rock is loaded with decayed matter. Bleach may work but muratic acid (please research before you use) would probably work best.
It sounds like the canister should be cleaned more often.
I didn't see an answer to flow in the tank besides the canister?
Using RO/DI should help.
Now I know why you wanted to bleach the rock. If you want to uses the rock again, simply consider recycling the rock in a rubbermaid tub with a pump/powerhead and a heater. Using phosphate media on the tub may be in order if you think the dry rock is loaded with decayed matter. Bleach may work but muratic acid (please research before you use) would probably work best.
I had live rock and the substrate is sand.
I have no idea what kind of rock.
I can work on cleaning the sponges more often out of the filters.
It also looks like this will become my dad's problem as he's wanting to buy this tank off of me when I move next month.
I have no idea what kind of rock.
I can work on cleaning the sponges more often out of the filters.
It also looks like this will become my dad's problem as he's wanting to buy this tank off of me when I move next month.
Agreed more flow and if the canister hasn't been cleaned regularly that may help a ton. I did the muratic acid wash on my pukani several times even after curing the rock and it still has an issue with leaching (reason I asked why the kind of rock)
I have had the same problem. And I think I solved it.
Frozen food I thawed in water I throw out after 3 days, raised SG to 1.026, and treated with Chemiclean.
CHEMICLEAN removed all the red slime even from my sponges without hurting them. This was thick too and disappeared completely in 48hrs.
The LFS uses it in there tanks from time to time and it worked for me. It is to reset bacteria balances to use up the nutrients while treating.
Chemipure.com is what is on the box.
Good luck
Frozen food I thawed in water I throw out after 3 days, raised SG to 1.026, and treated with Chemiclean.
CHEMICLEAN removed all the red slime even from my sponges without hurting them. This was thick too and disappeared completely in 48hrs.
The LFS uses it in there tanks from time to time and it worked for me. It is to reset bacteria balances to use up the nutrients while treating.
Chemipure.com is what is on the box.
Good luck
Chemiclean is a nuclear bomb approach and it will not solve the issue, it will only give temporary relief, and also kill off most of the good bacteria in the tank which usually means cyano will come back even stronger within a week or two because now the tank will lack a major part of its filtration, which is good bacteria. I have lost count over the last couple decades on how many people I know that have wiped out their entire tank (corals and fish) from using Chemiclean because it strips the water of oxygen. Fix the source of the problem, don't just mask it temporarily. Heavy feeding, bad source water, and lack of flow and proper filtration are the main causes of cyano outbreaks. Any type of sponge filter should be rinse cleaned daily or else the food just rots and fouls the water. This is a major reason why canister filters are not recommended in saltwater, most people don't keep them properly maintained as most are a pain to clean on a daily basis.
As far as nitrate/phosphate readings, those are pointless when talking about cyano as cyano can grow very well in 0/0 conditions on a test kit because the phosphates it does feed on are organic phosphates, and we usually only test for inorganic phosphates. You will kill corals before you kill cyano if you strip the water of phosphates and nitrates. Cyano feeds on DOCs (dissolved organic carbon) and silicates more than it does nitrates and phosphates. My tanks have phosphates in the .50 range and nitrates in the 10-20 range, yet, I have never had any hint of cyano and that is because I have the correct flow and filtration methods to make sure the tank is cyano free.
As far as nitrate/phosphate readings, those are pointless when talking about cyano as cyano can grow very well in 0/0 conditions on a test kit because the phosphates it does feed on are organic phosphates, and we usually only test for inorganic phosphates. You will kill corals before you kill cyano if you strip the water of phosphates and nitrates. Cyano feeds on DOCs (dissolved organic carbon) and silicates more than it does nitrates and phosphates. My tanks have phosphates in the .50 range and nitrates in the 10-20 range, yet, I have never had any hint of cyano and that is because I have the correct flow and filtration methods to make sure the tank is cyano free.
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I would say clean the canister once a week and maybe look into a hob skimmer and a phosban reactor which much more efficiently will remove any phosphates. Also I would add some good powerheads and just get rid of the canister if possible.
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Sorry for the delay guys been working on moving. Still have it and working on an erythro. Dosing schedule. Seems to be working slowly.
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Alright guys, I think I know what my issue here is. Not enough circulation in the tank.
I have a fluval 405, skilter 250 and a coralia 2 on there.
Here's what it looks like:
The red is the powerhead, the yellow is the fluval output, the blue is the skilter.
The slime is taking over the tank again and since the tank is located at my parent's house it is difficult for me to contain.
I have a marineland double bright led on there.
I will reduce the lighting to 8 hours a day.
I use RO water for all water changes.
The fish are fed lightly.
The only thing that I can think of is there is a lack of movement in the water.
How would you suggest I fix this?
I have a fluval 405, skilter 250 and a coralia 2 on there.
Here's what it looks like:
The red is the powerhead, the yellow is the fluval output, the blue is the skilter.
The slime is taking over the tank again and since the tank is located at my parent's house it is difficult for me to contain.
I have a marineland double bright led on there.
I will reduce the lighting to 8 hours a day.
I use RO water for all water changes.
The fish are fed lightly.
The only thing that I can think of is there is a lack of movement in the water.
How would you suggest I fix this?
