Refugium light cause algae in main tank?

[Indyfishking]

So from what the link said it didn't say macro algae has any benefit whatsoever? This is why I hate lfs and online because I've read that's a great additive to have in a fuge to help "eat" other algaes and keep the conditions more even. So what you are suggesting miracle mud, live rock and chaeto correct in the fuge? I prefer to keep fuge light off if possible because my water temps are hot!

What's gfo?

No I have not tested mg, will hop around this weekend because I've been using test strips for mg and ph but I was told those aren't accurate.

I can't keep my tank below 80 and I don't know why. I've changed MH to 6 hours daily, ac on in house at 73 do the only thing in tank I can figure out that's keeping temps warm are either the octopus refugium pump (in tank above the fan on my pictures), power head or the skimmer. What do you think it is?

We are planning on getting a bigger tank. No RO water in home yet so we're buying water at uncle bills. Looks like salinity is a little low so I will add more salt. I was told blue hippo should be good because he's literally tiny (no more than 1") but they suggested putting him in a bigger tank within a year or two depending on how big he's getting.

 

[greech]

Beneficial and Beautiful Macroalgae

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Beyond the nuisance and volunteer algae, some useful and decorative genera are available in the trade today. Both Sargassum and Halimeda, which often are volunteers, can be beautiful additions to an aquarium. Halimeda is a calcareous macroalgae, and takes up more calcium, magnesium and alkalinity than other macroalgae, so attention should be given to these levels when maintaining lots of coral and large stands of Halimeda.
For the refugium, Ulva (sea lettuce), Chaetomorpha (spaghetti algae) and Gracilaria ("tang heaven") all make excellent fast-growing nutrient exporters, and double as food for herbivores and copepods. All three can exist in a refugium without being tumbled in high circular flow, but they do best when they spin and all areas of their biomass are constantly exposed to light and nutrients. All three of these algae can tolerate both very low and very high light levels, and can live through hypo- and hypersalinity treatments in quarantine and hospital tanks. In the case of Chaetomorpha, its only drawback, is the ability to fragment into short segments in place of a typical sexual event. Fragments of Chaetomorpha often break off the main colony and find their way into overflows and pumps, where they can clog the intakes and cause floods. To prevent this from occurring, trim Chaetomorpha frequently, routinely shake it free of any collected detritus, and expand or turn the mass of strands to allow all the cells access to light.

 

[greech]

If you're going to upgrade then great but if you don't, you really should consider rehousing the hippo.

I don't see those pumps creating that much heat and despite only 6 hours "on", the MHs are likely the culprit (gonna take a while to cool off a 60 gallon glass box). Can't recall but do you have a solid top over the tank (glass acrylic). If so, removing that will make a significant difference. Fish can jusmp so you may want to make a mesh top (see www.bulkreefsupply.com) and buy yourself a window screen fram kit at the hardware store. very simple to make.

GFO is grannular ferric oxide and is a phosphate media. Rowaphos and Phosban are two common brands you can find at your LFS. Again, don;t overdose these. In your case, I would use the recommended amount (or slightly less) and be prepared to chnge it often in the beginning until you get it to zero. One there you will likely get a month or more out of a "treatment" before you need to replace it. I run mine intermittently but I am carfeul about how I feed my tank. FWIW, I prefer Rowaphos but its a little pricey. You can also get bulk GFO at places like bulkreefsuply.com and other online vendors (GFO is GFO). GFO reportedly works best in reactors but I use a media bag with good results. Water changes with good water, feeding th right foods and not overfeeding, media and macro will get those to zero. May want to test your supply water to ensure that is not the source of your PO4.