RO/DI system.. is this good?

WELL I got motivated when I got home so I moved them to a different orientation. What do ya think? Both of the DI chambers flow from top to bottom now.

Arkangel77

Actually, it's better to have the water flow from bottom to top. If you look at how the water flows through the prefilters, it's from bottom to top.
 
I guess I would be really interested to know what the "fancy" tests show as the end result.. ever consider buying some? =) If you could post results and we could compare it to the more "expensive" systems out there we'd know what's up.. but I do have to admit, so far.. it sounds like you've certainly improved your system by doing something that small gj! :thm:

Unfortunately, a direct comparison between RO/DI units would really need to be done over time. Any single reading from the units would likely provide similar results, but over time, a measurable difference is more likely. In the same regard, if the two units are not being supplied by the same source water, the comparison isn't quite as useful.

When it's said that the more expensive units are better, it's been my understanding that it's something that is seen over time... RO membrane longevity, frequency of DI resin replacement... What tends to be better (other than individual part / fitting quality) is the reduced long term operating costs of the more expensive RO/DI units.
 
Unfortunately, a direct comparison between RO/DI units would really need to be done over time. Any single reading from the units would likely provide similar results, but over time, a measurable difference is more likely. In the same regard, if the two units are not being supplied by the same source water, the comparison isn't quite as useful.

When it's said that the more expensive units are better, it's been my understanding that it's something that is seen over time... RO membrane longevity, frequency of DI resin replacement... What tends to be better (other than individual part / fitting quality) is the reduced long term operating costs of the more expensive RO/DI units.

Exactly. This is why I've been able to use the same membranes and resins for years on end. I haven't replaced either for almost 4 years and still 0 TDS and zero phosphate and nitrate (using low range tests).
 
I see, well this makes sense too =) I should get a test to see how bad my water is to start with.. maybe that would give me a better idea of what I should do.. I know that my hardness is off the charts so I assume that's not too good =)
 
I plan to change my membranes, resins, & pre filters as a mater of maintenence on a regular bassis. It may be better to flow from bottom to top but its gota be better to go top to bottem verses sideways. When I replace the resins - I think I will get a new housing/cartrage for the di section. Seems like a cheep upgrade.

Arkangel77
 
I plan to change my membranes, resins, & pre filters as a mater of maintenence on a regular bassis. It may be better to flow from bottom to top but its gota be better to go top to bottem verses sideways. When I replace the resins - I think I will get a new housing/cartrage for the di section. Seems like a cheep upgrade.

Arkangel77

The only things that should be replaced as regular maintenance are the sediment and carbon cartidges. The rest are replaced as needed. The less you need to replace them, the better off you are ;). Upgrading to a vertical canister isn't expensive at all. Check them out.
 
I looked at the vertical canister and you are right. Its not expensive at all. other than the expence what would be the problem with changing filters before they are depleated?
 
I looked at the vertical canister and you are right. Its not expensive at all. other than the expence what would be the problem with changing filters before they are depleated?

Expense and waste :). Replacing DI resin and membranes every 6 months along with sediment and carbon cartridges would become just plain prohibitive, at least for me. I simply use a TDS meter to verify that each stage is working properly. That is, I test the membrane output, DI resin #1 output and DI resin #2 output. I also use semiconductor grade resins, one cartridge of which also contains a phosphate/silicate scavenging resin. Basically really pure water. They've been going strong, too. Granted, I do have pretty good quality tapwater, though @ around 40-50 ppm TDS.
 
Ok- well my water is crap - tan looking so who knows. Whats a good brand metter to look into getting?
 
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