Hard plumbing your RO/DI unit is a rather simple process...
If you get your unit from airwaterice...you will get two saddle valves...one for supply and one for the waste line. The saddle vavles are easy to install. A wrench, maybe a screw driver (depending on whcich type fasteners) is all that is needed for the supply line, it is self tapping. And the drain/waste line can be dealt with in a variety of ways...preferrably attached to a drain line (mine, kitchen sink drain). Others have it attached to a large water storage container and use it for watering needs around the house. With the drain/waste, one will have to drill a hole, then attach the saddle valve. Again, simple.
I do not know the problems you are having with your tank(s) as I am new to this forum...a solid RO/DI, particularly the deionization portion, will solve a ton of problems with any micro algae you may have.
Something else to consider...a dual home/reef RO/DI system. The water quality for your family is simply amazing over regular tap water.
As mentioned above, a higher gpd is better. Many factors determine the output of the RO membrane. Temperature and pressure are two of the main factors. The rated gpd is established under highly regulated environment...i.e..everything is "perfect". A dual home/reef setup from airwater and ice will run you about 189.00 for a 50 gpd membrane. You can upgrade to 100gpd for 10.00.
This is the system I purchased earlier this year and am very happy with it. We use the RO water for basically all cooking and especially for coffee. As for the reef portion, it runs from the RO to the DI cartridge, then to whever you need it to go. I have mine in a dual 32 gallon storage setup linked together.
Good luck with your tank.