RO quit!

Membranes are standard size. Just be sure to get the one that matches your output rate. I am still a bit worried that chlorine may get past that carbon and get to your membrane. Packing a media bag vs. flowing through the cartridge are different--water can flow around the media bag much more freely. Did your LFS not have replacement carbon cartridges?

I agree this is risky--though the carbon is well-stuffed into the chamber. Alas, NYC hasn't been kind of LFS's. We were actually dependent on Petco to stock our tank initially--and I'd sworn I'd never buy anything organic from Petco. Luckily the one by Union Square is pretty good, with staff in the aquarium section who've been there several years.

Several major lfs's in both Brooklyn & Manhattan have gone out of business recently. Essentially you're left with the Chinese-owned stores in Lower Manhattan and Sunset Park. Mostly they stock the more ornamental tangs, and angel fish. And they're surprisingly weak on hardware.

A reef store *did* just open here on 8th Ave (Sunset Park), and they have lots of stuff we would hitherto be forced to rely on mofs for (e.g. phosphate absorbent media). And they *do* plan to stock R/O filters & accessories, but not for a couple of weeks:headshake2:

Andy
 
I see. Well, just be cautious and watch out for high post-membrane TDS. Thankfully, we have good alternatives where I am, so I do have recourse from the internet if I need something ASAP.
 
I just checked on-line and I see that TDS meters aren't as expensive as I'd led myself to believe .... so I will definitely invest in one and monitor the filter's output.

Thanks

Andy
 
Get one of the dual inline meters. That way you can check post membrane and post DI TDS. I use a dual inline and a handheld one. My handheld meter can be calibrated, so I used it to check the precision of the inline one.
 
I hadn't, I admit, even thought of inline meters, Amphiprion. I'll look into one. But are they really necessary given that one can simply dip the handheld into the filtered water container?

Incidentally, I don't have a de-ionizer, so would a dual in-line really be necessary?

Andy
 
Yeah you have the issue of needing to see the TDS coming from the carbon block filter to make sure it isn't starting to pass chlorine.
 
This is from our FAQ's and addresses RODI's but hopefully will help with your RO as well:

A good rule of thumb is to replace your sediment filter and carbon block after six months. A more precise way to maximize the useable life of these two filters is to use a pressure gauge to identify when pressure reaching the membrane starts to decline. This is your indication one or both of the filters is beginning to clog.

Also be cognizant of the chlorine capacity of the carbon block. The Matrikx+1 (“Chlorine Guzzler”) for example will remove 99% of chlorine from 20,000 gallons of tap water presented at 1 gpm. Original equipment suppliers commonly provide carbon cartridges rated at 2,000 to 6,000 gallons.

Regarding your RO membrane and DI resin, use your TDS meter to measure, record, and track the TDS (expressed in parts per million) in three places:
1. Tap water
2. After the RO but before the DI
3. After the DI.

The TDS in your tap water will likely range from about 50 ppm to upwards of 1000 parts per million (ppm). Common readings are 100 to 400 ppm. So for sake of discussion, let's say your tap water reads 400 ppm. That means that for every million parts of water, you have 400 parts of dissolved solids. How do we go about getting that TDS reading down to somewhere near zero?

If you do some experimenting with your TDS meter, you'll note that your sediment filter and carbon block filter (collectively called prefilters) do very little to remove dissolved solids. So with your tap water at 400 ppm, you can measure the water at the “in” port on your RO housing and you'll see its still approximately 400 ppm.

The RO membrane is really the workhorse of the system. It removes most of the TDS, some membranes to a greater extent than others. For instance, 100 gpd Filmtec membranes have a rejection rate of 90% (i.e., they reject 90% of the dissolved solids in feed water). So the purified water coming from your 100 gpd membrane would be about 40 ppm (a 90% reduction). Filmtec 75 gpd (and below) membranes produce less purified water (aka “permeate”), but have a higher rejection rate (96 to 98%). The life span of a RO membrane is dependant upon how much water you run through it, and how dirty the water is. Membranes can function well for a year, two years, or more. To test the membrane, measure the total dissolved solids (TDS) in the water coming in to the membrane, and in the purified water (permeate) produced by the membrane. Compare that to the membrane’s advertised rejection rate, and to the same reading you recorded when the membrane was new. Membranes also commonly produce less water as their function declines.

After the RO membrane, water will flow to your DI housing. DI resin in good condition will reduce the 40 ppm water down to 0 or 1 ppm. When the DI output starts creeping up from 0 or 1 ppm to 3 ppm, 5 ppm, and higher, you know that your resin needs to be replaced. Sometimes people complain that their DI resin didn't last very long. Often the culprit is a malfunctioning RO membrane sending the DI resin “dirty” water. This will exhaust the resin quicker then would otherwise have been the case. Sometimes the problem is poor quality resin – remember that all resins are not created equal!

Russ
 
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