Round 2 **long post warning**

Clown Loaches will still not be happy in a 40. They need at least a 75 to start out in, then a 150 once they get larger. Why not try a zebra loach? They stay smaller and are just as entertaining.
About the cycling thing, it only said in your post that you set it up empty for four weeks. Were you adding ammonia in this time period to allow the bacteria to grow?
 
Hi,
The tank was set up as per the fish shops instructions and seconded by our new fish shop.

We put in the gravel, slate, tunnels and bogwood and set the filter running.

After 4 weeks we then added the Mountain minnows and some plants as we were told this is the best way to start them off.

Only doing what we were told to do. :confused:

Cheers
Claire
 
Originally posted by Slappy*McFish


I'm curious...what is your source of information for this fact?..as I have never heard this before. Most sources I have ever read claimed around a 12-14" max size(+/-) for clowns in the wild and in large aquaria. I saw one claim of 18".
Click to expand...

We'll start here

http://aquatic-hobbyist.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=16

I've got a few more somewhere.
Will post them in a few.

Edit-
*Update- I asked the writer of that profile/article about where the 24" clown loach was from. I think it was at the Vancouver Aquarium, but I'm not sure. I'll get confirmation soon.
 
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Then your tank was never properly cycled. This happens with many people new to the hobby. A tank must be cycled(i.e. beneficial bacteria must be working) in order to sustain fish. THe bacteria process the ammonia and nitrites the fish give off. Essentially, you could have just put your fish in immediately--youw aited four weeks for nothing. It happens often. I would reccomend you do a fishless cycle this time, that will get your tank off on the right foot. Here is an easy explanation. You can also go to www.skepticalaquarist.com and research the nitrogen cycle.

http://aquatic-hobbyist.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=15

This explains the fishless cycle in layman's terms. I followed this guide when starting out and never looked back. You also MUST MUST MUST have your own testing kit. Don't depend on the pet store for all your testing. Do it yourself and then if you get a reading you don't expect, double check with the LFS.
I see that you are in the UK. Pure ammonia may be hard to come by. Some people have used rotting fish food with much success. Quaggar from Aquatic-Hobbyist.com is one of those people. Post or Private Message him if you have questions.
The important thing is to have an ammonia source for your bacteria to live on, whether it be pure ammonia, rotting fish food, etc.
 
Hi,

It was apparentlly to get rid on any excess gravel dust and that water had enough bacteria in it already.

We do have our own kit and get it tested at our new shop as well.

With the new tank we only left it for a week before putting in 6 5 banded barbs with plants. We used tapsafe as well.

They seems to be going ok...touch a lot of wood.

Claire
 
It was apparentlly to get rid on any excess gravel dust and that water had enough bacteria in it already.
Click to expand...

Huh? Are you talking about being cycled? The bacteria load has nothing at all to do with ridding the tank of gravel dust. And if your tank had nothing LIVING in it, then there's a slim(very slim) possibility enough bacteria was present to sustain a full bioload of fish.

Please look at the sites I've mentioned and test your water EVERY DAY for Ammonia/Nitrites. If ANY Ammonia or Nitrites are present, do a water change to avoid killing your fish.
 
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