Rusty Ballast

[apastuszak]

I took my twin tube 48" strip light apart to install a new switch and replace of the end caps. The repair went well and everything is working fine.

The strip light is not new to me. I got it from a friend, so all I knew was that it had mineral deposits on it that I managed to remove with some vinegar.

When I took it apart, I managed to see the "guts" of the strip light and the two ballasts under the reflector are rusted on the outside. Not completed. But I would say 30-40% out of the outside of the ballast has surface rust on it.

Is this something I should be concerned about or can I leave it as-is and just use the light?

I am assuming the rust occurred from the previous owner and I've been using rusty ballasts for 2+ years now.

 

[pbeemer]

a dusting of thin surface rust per se is not a big deal, other than maybe dropping iron into your tank if they aren't enclosed.

clean all the rust off and inspect the metal. (incidentally, make sure all the vinegar has been rinsed off and the unit dried out.) if it was just surface rust, wipe it down with 3-in-1 oil or the equivalent, put everything back together, and you're good for another decade

however, if you actually have a measurable amount of the metal rusted -- severe pitting going down 1/16 th of an inch, say -- your energy efficiency will go down slightly and the ballasts will run a little hotter. you can still clean off the rust, oil as above, and check it out every year or so, unless it has gotten so bad that you are looking at mechanical damage to and between the laminations.

if the there is ANY corrosion between the laminations, or if any part of the wiring on the ballast is compromised, it is time to upgrade to LEDs NOW.

 

[apastuszak]

No corrosion in the wires anywhere. The rust all appears to be on the surface. The switch was a disaster. It was stuck in the on position. When I removed the switch from the hood, it fell apart in my hands. I replaced that with a new push button switch and it's working great. I replaced one broken end cap and put the thing together and it seems to be good as new.

The only thing I don't like is that it takes T12 bulbs. I would rather use T8 bulbs. But to do that, I need to switch ballasts out (at least that's what the fine folks on YouTube claim). To get a starterless twin-tube ballast is between $40 and $50. Then, if you factor in the cost of two new fluorescent bulbs, you're halfway to an LED light.

I'm going to need to change bulbs soon. I'm thinking one full spectrum bulb and one plant bulb would be the ideal combination.

 

[FreshyFresh]

If the fixture is working and like said, the area around the ballast(s) isn't getting hot. I wouldn't touch a thing. This must be an old fixture if there isn't several protective barriers between the water and the electronics. I know on any of the fluorescent hoods I've had or have seen in many years, the light is separated from the hood by glass, and then the ballast is above the plastic housing of the light fixture.

 

[apastuszak]

The fixture is from the late 80s/early 90s. The ballasts sit above the plastic housing. I found some cheap T8 ballasts on Amazon. It might actually be worth it to convert the thing to a T8.

I did read though that the new T8 electronic ballasts, on average, last about 3-5 years. The T12 magnetic ballasts will outlive you.

 

[FreshyFresh]

I did read though that the new T8 electronic ballasts, on average, last about 3-5 years. The T12 magnetic ballasts will outlive you.

The rusty ballast fixture is T12?

You are 100% correct in today's electronic T8 ballasts. What I've found with various T8 lighting is, if they don't poop out in a week or two, they're good for 3-5yrs. Magnetic ballasts? Those suckers will last a lifetime. To save ~10watts per lamp, I wouldn't switch from T12 to T8.

 

[apastuszak]

The rusty ballast fixture is T12?

You are 100% correct in today's electronic T8 ballasts. What I've found with various T8 lighting is, if they don't poop out in a week or two, they're good for 3-5yrs. Magnetic ballasts? Those suckers will last a lifetime. To save ~10watts per lamp, I wouldn't switch from T12 to T8.

At some point I'm sure they'll stop making T12 bulbs. But I guess I should enjoy it while I have it and then get LEDs when they stop making T12s.

 

[FreshyFresh]

Hard to say, but I think we're a long way from running out of T12 lamp options. All the home/hardware stores around me a still loaded with them. Some plant or ~6500K T12s even.