Safe number of water changes

I have a 55 gallon aquarium and I do a 20% water change monthly. Is that enough of a water change? I once went to another forum to get advice and wasn't able to get much advice, but you all have been very helpful and I really thank you for all of the good advice, even though I do feel a little dumb now.
 
Don't feel dumb. This is a hobby that lots of people have for years without really learning anything about their tank. You're taking steps to become an informed aquariast, and that's good.

Water changes are usually done as RTR advises--when the nitrAte levels rise. I do 20% changes on my planted 40 once a week. Other tanks are changed more frequently, or less, depending on the stocking level and such.

I'd measure the nitrates, and see where they are now. Start doing more often, and see if this helps stabilize the pH and KH levels. You may need to do more to begin with, just to get your tank back in balance. Testing should guide your actions.

http://www.skepticalaquarist.com/ --I apologize for typos!
 
Originally posted by pkdiaz
Maybe no one around here knows anything about aquariums.

:( That hurts...that really hurts.

It's o.k. though. We all have been frazzled at one time or another. Just hang in there and keep asking questions.

Definitely don't add medications if there is no problem, especially at regular intervals. Fish process toxins (i.e. some medications like quick cure, formalin/formaldehyde) slowly so that any regular addition can accumulate in the fish and make them sick, sluggish, and die.

BTW- aquariums hold fish, that's something I know!

;)
 
The myth of set percentage changes...

pkdiaz - there are things some folk already know, or are learning, that are new to others. That is why we have these boards, to share info and experience. All of us are "feeling dumb" in some areas - none of us knows it all or this would not be an art - we have some of the science, but not anywhere near all, or even enough.

One of the great aquarium myths is that if you change xx% of your water at y-interval, then you and your fish will be fine. Beeep!! False. Every tank is different, houses different dish, is fed different foods, uses different water, different filters, etc. There is no magic number. All you have to do is find the number that works for your tank under your care, and use it for youir partials. Then you do need to check it at times (I suggest at least monthly) because fish and your habits change over time, so you may need to change the number for that particular tank.

We use nitrates (because they are easily measured) but they serve as a hint of general pollution levels - if nitrates are up, so are phenols and all manner of DOC (dissolved organic compounds or dissolved organic carbon). We can'r test for all DOC, so we use nitrates.

In planted tanks, as OG mentioned, we have to wing it - plants use nitrate, so tests don't help us there. We select a partial percentage that seems in line with our other non-planted tanks and do that size change. That we do on faith, not data.

Bit by bit, we learn - all of us, not just novices.
 
Thanks everyone for your assistance. I did daily water changes until I got the PH where I wanted it and my fish all have good color now, although they seem to be lazy to me. I quit putting all of the additives in. Now I only add water. Hopefully everything will be alright now.
 
High Nitrates = Low Ph. In other words, if the nitrate level is high, it will decrease your PH. Whethor it is the Nitrates or the other chemicals that build up that is not measurable is causing the lowering of your ph. There is a big Hoop-rah as to the impacts of high nitrates. Personally, I dont think the nitrates itself have such a big impact on the fishes health (some poeple say otherwise). I do believe that high nitrates is an indicator as to the levels of the other compounds which can be hazerdous to your fish.
There are test kits that give you one safe level and some poeple that give another. I seen them (from different sources) fluctuate from 20-60ppm as a goal to set for your nitrates in you tank. 0ppm being the Ideal. I always believe 0ppm is the goal you should have. HOWEVER, I also believe that you should anilyze the TYPE of fish. Some fish cannot tolerate nitrates at all (discuss). While many others can tolerate levels to 100+ppm safely. Unfortunatly, I lost the website that calculates this for certain species. I dont think one person or source can give you a maximum nitrate level that is safe for your tank. Your going to have to take into account all the fish. The fish species that has the lowest maximum Nitrate level of all the fish in your tank is the level you should set at as a guideline.
 
RTR said:
Agree with both the above, but will add a bit of my own feelings on the matter.

First ditch the salt additions. Salt (unless marine mix) will do nothing for you buffering, and in any case, the issues is elsewhere. Salt did not drop your pH, Old Tank Syndrome dropped your pH.

You have a year old tank with twelve total water changes of unspecified volumes. You have fish, which produce ammonia. Ammonia is oxidized to nitrite by bacteria. Nitrite is oxidized to nitrate by other bacteria. That nitrate stays unless you change your water sufficiently to remove it.

Step 1: Measure your nitrate in the tank. It should be below 40ppm nitrate at least. At best it should be at 10-20ppm. Do serial (daily) water partials until it is where it should be. Vacuum the gravel with every partial.

The nitrification process described of the bacteria oxidizing fish nitrogenous waste uses, burns up, the carbonate/bicarbonate buffering in the water. Each milliequavalent of nitrogen oxidized to nitrate from ammonia uses two milliequavalents of buffering - the units and measures are trivial to you, do not worry about them - just remember that when your tank's filters are working, the bacteria are using up your natural buffers while they are detoxifying the nitrogenous wastes.

Step 2: Measure the KH of your tap water and of your tank. They should be the same. If they are not, if the tank is lower, you have lost buffer and need to replace it. Regular, routine, preferably weekly, water changes will replenish the natural buffers in the tank with those in the tap water. Your GH in the tank is likely to be higher in the tank reflecting replaced evaporation over the last year.

Established tanks do not need a lot of testing when operating smoothly. They do need to be tested for nitrate at least monthly. If the nitrate is creeping upward, you need to increase the frequency and or volume of your water changes. If nitrate is stable and from 10-20ppm, you are doing just fine. If your tap water is low KH (KH 3 or KH <3), checking the KH at the same time is good also.
Very good explanation! Thanks.
 
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