I have 4 adult SnP corys that spawned and I have 3 young from them. Can somebody tell me what I could do to so that more will survive? In other words "How do you spawn S n P Corys"?:idea:
Salt n Pepper Cory Help
- Thread starter thesixis
- Start date
tanker
Josh Holloway--Be mine!!!
Usually the corys do not eat their offfspring.
SO----Remove the other fish from tank (or remove the breeders to their own tank), get a sponge filter so they do not get sucked into it.
SO----Remove the other fish from tank (or remove the breeders to their own tank), get a sponge filter so they do not get sucked into it.
Hi. Early fry loss may be because of what you feed them. Try some brine shrimp the first 2 weeks. Also, a lot of marbles or pebbles on the bottom will give good shelter for the babies. If you can remove the adults, so much the better. Good luck.
As Chris said, fry survival depends on not getting eaten by other fish and lots of fry food. Easiest fry food is Hikari first bites and lots of it. Fry will do better if you can remove the eggs from the tank and give them their own tank with lots of feeding which means frequent water changes. Hard to do that in a community tank and expect them to survive.
Survival of S & P corys
I have had the best luck keeping the paleatus (S & P) fry alive by starting the group (mine are the hi-fin variety) off in a mature tank with a black painted bottom, back and sides. Feed them well and watch the females for signs of plumpness and do a 50% water change with cool water, they should spawn the following morning if they are conditioned properly.
Once the eggs are laid, remove the adults immediately to another tank. You should use methelyne blue to keep the eggs from fungusing. I use enough so the water is VERY blue. I also use 5 alder cones (a small pinecone of the alder bush) in a 20 long to inhibit fungus.
The eggs will disappear from the glass and it will look like there are no fry at all, but they are hiding on the bottom close to the edges and corners of the tank. They will live on their egg sacs for a few days and then you need to start feeding them first bites at least 3-4 times a day. I soak a portion of it in a cup of their tank water it so it will sink and feed it with a turkey baster. Use enough so you can squirt it all around the bottom corners of the tank where they are hiding.
My last spawn was approximately 200 eggs and about 140 fry survived. They have sold well at the various club auctions here in NE Ohio.
Here is a picture of the dad:
I have had the best luck keeping the paleatus (S & P) fry alive by starting the group (mine are the hi-fin variety) off in a mature tank with a black painted bottom, back and sides. Feed them well and watch the females for signs of plumpness and do a 50% water change with cool water, they should spawn the following morning if they are conditioned properly.
Once the eggs are laid, remove the adults immediately to another tank. You should use methelyne blue to keep the eggs from fungusing. I use enough so the water is VERY blue. I also use 5 alder cones (a small pinecone of the alder bush) in a 20 long to inhibit fungus.
The eggs will disappear from the glass and it will look like there are no fry at all, but they are hiding on the bottom close to the edges and corners of the tank. They will live on their egg sacs for a few days and then you need to start feeding them first bites at least 3-4 times a day. I soak a portion of it in a cup of their tank water it so it will sink and feed it with a turkey baster. Use enough so you can squirt it all around the bottom corners of the tank where they are hiding.
My last spawn was approximately 200 eggs and about 140 fry survived. They have sold well at the various club auctions here in NE Ohio.
Here is a picture of the dad:
I have spawned over 30 types of cories and there cousins.
My first food is cyclops or eggyolk. If you have a sand bottom in the tank do not feed more than twice a day. Many microscopic goodies are in the sand for them.
OVERFEEDING WITHOUT PROPER WATER CHANGES WILL CAUSE MORE DEATH THAN UNDER FEEDING. ALSO IF THE TANK PARS GET SLIGHTLY OUT OF HAND IT WILL CAUSE FIN LOSS BARBEL LOSS ETC. SO DO NOT OVERFED.
After the first week I use decapped brine eggs baby brine golden pearls and crushed flake at 1 month I feed everything except live black worms they will get them when I feel they are large enough.
Cories WILL EAT THERE EGGS if not really feed to the max so eitheer remove the eggs or the fish for best results.
My peppers yield about 80% of there hatches this way. 90-150 young. It is a group of 8 6m 2f.
I do not use methly blue or any chemicals in my tanks. Instead after a lay I add ALDER CONES this must be done after the spawn. They have a natural enzime or something that will coat the eggs so even if one is bad it will not fungus. Leave them in for 48 hours then remove and discard. Hope this helps you can always PM me with questions I have 47 types of cories now and 144 tanks 140 of them cories.
My first food is cyclops or eggyolk. If you have a sand bottom in the tank do not feed more than twice a day. Many microscopic goodies are in the sand for them.
OVERFEEDING WITHOUT PROPER WATER CHANGES WILL CAUSE MORE DEATH THAN UNDER FEEDING. ALSO IF THE TANK PARS GET SLIGHTLY OUT OF HAND IT WILL CAUSE FIN LOSS BARBEL LOSS ETC. SO DO NOT OVERFED.
After the first week I use decapped brine eggs baby brine golden pearls and crushed flake at 1 month I feed everything except live black worms they will get them when I feel they are large enough.
Cories WILL EAT THERE EGGS if not really feed to the max so eitheer remove the eggs or the fish for best results.
My peppers yield about 80% of there hatches this way. 90-150 young. It is a group of 8 6m 2f.
I do not use methly blue or any chemicals in my tanks. Instead after a lay I add ALDER CONES this must be done after the spawn. They have a natural enzime or something that will coat the eggs so even if one is bad it will not fungus. Leave them in for 48 hours then remove and discard. Hope this helps you can always PM me with questions I have 47 types of cories now and 144 tanks 140 of them cories.
what about moving the eggs to small 1.5g tank? is is to small to house them for the 1st few weeks?
ive heard of people removing the eggs and putting them in a tupperware and floating it in there tank with a bubbler in it, is this bad?
ive heard of people removing the eggs and putting them in a tupperware and floating it in there tank with a bubbler in it, is this bad?