Setting up a new 300 gallon tank need some advice

[rhamilton]

Ok couple questions here, my Skimmer is rated only 500gph so I would need to dial the pump back to 500gph as well? Should I run the skimmer 24/7 or maybe just at night and reduce flow then?

Thanks for the picture there, so both overflow boxes will drain into the sump and with the return going up and over the top should I T it off up top and go in 2 different directions or just have it with 1 output in into the tank? The gate valves are on the 1 inch bulkhead I assume and are these shut unless I need them open? Do you have a pic of the top of the tank with the herbie drain

 

[rhamilton]

Ok couple questions here, my Skimmer is rated only 500gph so I would need to dial the pump back to 500gph as well? Should I run the skimmer 24/7 or maybe just at night and reduce flow then?

Thanks for the picture there, so both overflow boxes will drain into the sump and with the return going up and over the top should I T it off up top and go in 2 different directions or just have it with 1 output in into the tank? The gate valves are on the 1 inch bulkhead I assume and are these shut unless I need them open? Do you have a pic of the top of the tank with the herbie drain

 

[rhamilton]

sorry for the double post, I saw another guide out there I guess the emergency drain is just higher up than the main drain, http://gmacreef.com/herbie-overflow-reef-tank-plumbing-method-basics/#prettyphoto/0/

still need help about how I should run my pump since my skimmer is only 500gph do I need to dial the pump down to that level as well? or just run the skimmer at night and slow down the flow

 

[greech]

Most people suggest a 4 to 6 time system volume turnover through the sump. However, if your skimmer can only handle 500 gph, and 4 times per hour is 800 gph, you are kind of defeating the purpose. I would dial the pump back unless the herbie cannot maintain a full siphon at that flow rate. If that is the case, you can close the valves more but having them as open as possible is best to reduce risk of clogs (then again, that is the purpose of the emergency drains.

 

[greech]

Yes, that site is correct on the herbie diagram.

 

[rhamilton]

Greech I'm getting my stuff in, just about ready to start plumbing, had to order a couple 1 inch strainers couldn't find any at hardware store.

I've got another question I'd like you to answer, I've got my pump in, it's got fittings for 3/4, 1 inch and 1.25 the 90 degree barb into the locline inside the overflow is 3/4 I was going to put a T on my pump and go into both locline with 3/4 with flex hose. Or I was considering just going over the back of the tank with PVC with 1 inch right into the middle of tank and maybe split the return inside into 2 different directions with a Y adapter.

What do you think, I'm just kinda worried going with 3/4 inch into the locline won't give me enough water cycle, and with the 1 inch I could create better flow what do you recommend?

 

[greech]

I would not be the slightest bit concerned using 3/4" return line(s) whether you run them up through the overflow or over the top.

 

[rhamilton]

Thanks Greech, I have plumbed the return on both sides and filled up the sump with water for a test, I was thrilled to see that water pour outta those loclines lol. Put in my new bulkheads too and poured some water down the overflow and all is good no leaks.

I'm waiting on a few pieces to come in so I can finish plumbing it, I ordered a couple Gate Valves will be in later next week. I also ordered 2 Filter socks, so here is another question for you. These are filter socks with a draw string, should i put both of them onto my drain lines, and can I put a bag of carbon in them? will that be effective way to run carbon for now, or I have this egg crate stand, I thought about putting it in the middle of the sump with both drain lines going down to the egg crate stand with the filter socks on the drains and I would have filter floss at the top of the egg crate and a carbon pad underneath it.

What do you think?

 

[greech]

Not sure how your drains are positioned at the sump, but definitely use one sock on both drains if you can (less laundry ). You'll want to have more than 2 socks as they will need to be changed at least once a week. Also, not sure what kind you got but the 100-200 micon mesh socks are much better and easier to clean than the felt version.

I would not recommend putting carbon bags in the socks. Get one of those "stick-on" hooks and stick it on the outside glass and hang the filter back from that so it is suspened and gets some flow through it.

I think I kind of get where you are going with the eggcrate stand but I donlt think that would provide any significant benefit over the bag. Probably not enough eggcrate to matter but everytime I see eggcrate in a tank these days, it is covered in snotty brown algae (something is leaching from that stuff so its not for me).

Eventually you may want to consider a reactor for carbon but not a requirement (IMO, you should definitly consider a reactor for GFO as time/money permits).

Keep it simple and as easy to maintain as possible.

 

[rhamilton]

Yes I got the 100 Micron socks.

I'm ready to go, my dang gate valves won't be here until Friday though, but I was thinking of going ahead and start putting most the water in it and getting a jump start on cycling.

As I've said I've got some live rock from my other tank, I also have some in a bucket that's been sitting for awhile, so I guess it's dead rock for now. I'd like to get the tank cycled as quickly as possible. I've got the live sand as well that came with the little bags of bacteria. What's the best way to get it cycled? Will putting a couple live rocks from my other tank get it going? and with the live sand bacteria should it cycle in a few days

I've used that Bio-Spira before to start my 75 gallon and it worked great but getting enough bottles of live bacteria for my 300 gallons would be costly.