Go to this article that was in a post by
flaringshutter who has successfully treated columnaris in goldfish.
It is scholarly article discussing the disease and treatment in fish.The article has specific directions on using salt dip: dosages, frequencies, etc.
It does discuss antibiotic treatments as well.
http://www.cichlid-forum.com/article...is_disease.php
The above link has a table that gives specific instructions on dosages and measurements to achieve the % solutions that are effective.
The article states that, although antibiotic treatments can be successful in the treatment of columnaris; in the absence of, or unavailabiliy of, antibiotics the salt dip method works well, too.
(Here is an excerpt from the article at that link)
"Finally, if faced with an emergency and you suspect that your fish may be suffering from a virulent form of columnaris disease, and you neither have access to a microscope or an appropriate expert, the ‘broad spectrum effect’ on a variety of microbes, that can achieved by 2 days of repeated salt dips; coupled with large regular water changes; may have wondrous results – and is certainly worth a try."
Dougall Stewart BSc (Hons).
"If new to Salt Dipping"
"If new to dipping fish a good place to start would be with a 1.5-2% salt solution; for more experienced users I would suggest you start with a 3% solution immediately. The solution should be made up in a clean bucket or spare (fishless) tank. Whilst it is preferable to weigh out the correct amount of salt e.g. for a 2% solution one would use 20g of salt per litre of water, the following approximate measure are given for the sake of simplicity.
1 TABLESPOON of salt approximates to 15grams.
Therefore 1 TABLESPOON of salt per litre of water equates to a 1.5% solution
Worked examples (See Table 1 for other strengths):
· If your bucket/tank contains 10 litres of water you would add 13 tablespoons of salt to get an approximate 2% salt solution
· Or - If you place 3 US gallons of water in a 5 gallon bucket you would add 14½ tablespoons of salt - to get an approximate 2% solution.
And so on
· It is important to ensure that the salt is fully dissolved before placing the fish in the bucket/tank and that the water temperature matches the tank from which the fish are taken.
As you will need to multi-dip throughout the day, place a heater in the tank, if you do not want to have to remake new salt solution each time; personally I make a fresh solution for each dip.
Before you place the fish in the solution please remember that:
· The length of time that you can leave discus in the solution varies greatly from a few seconds to 30 minutes
o 5 minutes would be a reasonable average
· The time they tolerate the dip DECREASES with the number of dips performed in a 24 hour period
· The fish MUST NOT be left unattended
· During the treatment your fish may show some interesting discolouration, do not worry this is short term.
Place the fish into the solution as quickly and as carefully as possible - then observe closely.
Initially, the respiration of the fish will increase substantially, 120 gill beats per minute is not uncommon. At some point, the fish will keel over on its side - and it is at this point that the novice should remove the fishand return it to its tank. If you are confident and experienced in dipping you may want to extend the time that the fish is exposed to the saline solution - I have found it effective to leave the fish in the solution until the gill beats have slowed to around 20 bpm - irrespective of whether the fish has keeled over or not.
Once the fish are returned to their tank they should within a few minutes regain their composure. If they appear to be in difficulty, the fish can be supported using your hands and then gently pulled backwards through the water at a slow pace - so that water is forced over the gills.
I have dipped 5 times a day for up to 7 days and there has been no lasting negative effect. It is important that the dips continue until all visible signs of infection are gone."
Here is the link to the discussion thread on AC that the above information was posted by
flaringshutter. It may be helpful to read that thread as well.
http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums...d.php?t=134928
