skimmer settings

dixienut

AC Members
Jun 15, 2006
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Hookstown/Georgetown area pennsylvania
i just set up my used skimmer, coralife 65,

should i use the dry foam or wet foam setting? which is better?

also it came with used media for the bubble diffuser and the tank is full if micro bubles, and i have the output above the bottom and the water flows out over the top of the bubble diffuser, is this normal? i have the printed out direction and they are really breif and direct,.. but is there anything else i should look at?

also the directions say the pump should be only 3-4 inched under the water and it is about 5.5 inches under water measuring from the intake..
 
also, it's been 2 hours and the foam has stopped just wet bubbles, is all the waste gone already?

it's just a 30 long, with just a clean up crew, so far,.. the tank's been up and running since may......

it was foaming good but then it slowed down till almost nothing ....i have adjusted the water level and still wont foam, just loose wet bubles that don't want to go up cone unless i raise the water level higher and make it overflow, am i doing something wrong?
or right,..?

just want to get the tank ready for a couple clowns and maybe start some coral frags, if anyone has any,...
 
It'll take a while for it to break in. What's happening right now is perfectly normal. Just let it be with the bubbles down low even if no foam is being produced. I've found the coralife to be really finiky and it often loses any foamhead if you put your arms in the tank or add anything, etc. If you then adjust it to where you would normally want it to be, once it goes back to normal, the cup will overflow.
And yes, for the HOB style, you are supposed to cut the tubing a little. How much you cut it depends how much air you want in the reaction chamber. it also has to give you a little extra than what they say because not everyone's water level is right up at the top of the tank.
Just let it sit for a while and it should produce a foam head and the microbubbles should go away.
Also, as far as wet or dry, that is up to you. Wet will remove more, but dry is more efficient for the amount that it pulls. If you want to empty the cup more often for the extra power, wet is a good idea.
Good luck with it.
 
the unit wasn't new i got it used, does it still need break in time then? if not then does it need time to adjust to my tank?
 
All units need a break in time if they change tanks (for the most part, anyway). I agree with the wetter skimming removing a bit more. What happens is that the organics accumulate and eventually reach a concentration that causes them to precipitate from solution. That is what you are waiting on in dry skimming. Dry skimming is more efficient from a waste:tank water perspective, but in terms of sheer removal, increasing that rate by wet skimming will theoretically result in more removal overall.
 
thanks, that what i was thinking but didn't know,...i will just hook up the drain hose to a larger container..

if i replace the water that skimmes out to i replace with salt water ot fresh,? since it wasn't evaporation.....
 
Depending upon how much is removed, you may have to use saltwater every now and then. Just test and see what you need at the time. The wetter you skim, the more salt you'll have to replace.
 
thanks thats what i figured,.. i keep it at around..1024
is that ok for corals or ......mushrooms...... i've read that they like 26-27 for real salt water for salinity etc..
 
Well, I personally prefer to keep it around those levels. Keep in mind natural seawater is around 1.0264 @ 77 degrees Fahrenheit. Just make sure you have an accurate and calibrated means to measure your salinity/specific gravity. You'll at least get maximum calcium and alkalinity solubility that way.
 
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