DAVIDFBT
Extinct? Since when?
If you started after Christmas, you could get the old paint off and stain and seal the stand before the 5th. If you do 3 coats of stain and 3 coats of urethane, you could have it done by then.
stain or paint wooden stand?
- Thread starter zzyzx85
- Start date
I found some 80 grit but no velcro backing. I only have 120 grit that has the velcro backing for the electric sander and I think I used it all up yesterday.
Might stop by the BBHS to see if they have any 80 with the velcro backing.
Well, I want the whole setup (tank and all) done by the 5th, not just the stand
.
Might stop by the BBHS to see if they have any 80 with the velcro backing.
Well, I want the whole setup (tank and all) done by the 5th, not just the stand
.If the stand already had a finish on it, and you are wanting to get it done quickly, then paint is your best option. With paint you won't have to finish sand as much.
Just be aware that you'll still need to sand the thing to rough up the surface, and that latex paint over the top of what was an oil based clear finish won't take well unless you really do a good job of sanding. The same would apply to staining, as the stain would not penetrate evenly unless you fully removed the prior finish.... Also, stain by itself is not a good protectant - you'd have to top coat it with an oil based or water based poly.
Again, I think Paint gives you the best results with less work. If you live near a woodcraft store, they can even recommend a dye for an oil based paint... Buy white, add dye to taste, test apply and dry for the right shade before painting the whole thing.
Just be aware that you'll still need to sand the thing to rough up the surface, and that latex paint over the top of what was an oil based clear finish won't take well unless you really do a good job of sanding. The same would apply to staining, as the stain would not penetrate evenly unless you fully removed the prior finish.... Also, stain by itself is not a good protectant - you'd have to top coat it with an oil based or water based poly.
Again, I think Paint gives you the best results with less work. If you live near a woodcraft store, they can even recommend a dye for an oil based paint... Buy white, add dye to taste, test apply and dry for the right shade before painting the whole thing.
Paint makes it what it ain't! If any of your paint, etc. comes out of a spray can you just made more work for yourself. Any paint, stain, etc that is in spray can is too watered down to make it useful on water exposed items. You will end up having to redo it later. Boat paint is a real good paint for exposure to water
DAVIDFBT
Extinct? Since when?
What kind of wood is the stand? I used regualr old stain on both pine, oak and even fiber board and they turned up fine. Are you using spray urethane or urethane in a can?
Good finish depends on good prep, and that you can't rush. Looks like you're working with two different kinds of wood between the frame and the plywood, and they will take the stain differently. With pine you can have problems from sappy knots and with sap wood when sanding and staining with the long grain. Pine is a soft wood but within it there are areas that are much harder and softer than others and these areas will take stain differently.
The "primer" referred to on the can is actually a stain controller, for pine, that limits the differences between the soft and hard areas keeping it from getting blotches. This also causes the whole staining job to appear a bit lighter so try it on the bottom first.
Don't go any finer than the 120 grit on your prep sand 'cuz with pine a finer grit will tend to clog the grain and again restrict the stain uptake by the wood. Always sand and apply your finishes with the grain and between any sanding, whether you paint or stain, use tack cloth to pick up the fine dust that you can't wipe or vacuum off.
In this day and age of low VOC finishes, especially in California where I don't think you can even buy alkyd /oil any more, you'll probably be workin' with water based products. Be mindful that your plywood finish ply (which I couldn't I.D. from the pics) can be sanded thru very easily, and... if it is a luan type, the surface ply may be a tropical mahogany like wood whose grain will tend to raise and get fuzzy from the water in the stain. Again...try it all on a hidden part first so you don't run into any unexpected surprises. Consider it an homage to Mr. Murphy and the wood gods, who are lookin' to get even with every wood worker for cuttin' down trees.
For future reference, you can't beat epoxy paints for toughness, chemicals and moisture resistance. I haven't used this one but it's similar to a local product that I have used on boat refurbs. Epoxy is what people use to paint garage floors and swimming pools, takes a lickin'.
http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategories/3048/Epoxy-Paint-1-Gallon
If possible try staining a piece on the bottom edge first to check your final color and finish when dry. The stain depends a lot on how you apply it so consistency is key.
As far as practicality of finish, it sounds as though you may be a student? If so and this set up is going to see a few moves in its life, return the stain and buy the paint. Much faster, much more durable and easier to repair.
Wear a respirator when sanding and painting. Gloves and eye protection as well. Just like fish, we can soak bad stuff up thru our skin, eyes, mouth and belly button, (fish don't have belly buttons do they?) The reason I've got time to spend on aquariums is because I worked in a cabinet shop where we didn't.
Good luck!
The "primer" referred to on the can is actually a stain controller, for pine, that limits the differences between the soft and hard areas keeping it from getting blotches. This also causes the whole staining job to appear a bit lighter so try it on the bottom first.
Don't go any finer than the 120 grit on your prep sand 'cuz with pine a finer grit will tend to clog the grain and again restrict the stain uptake by the wood. Always sand and apply your finishes with the grain and between any sanding, whether you paint or stain, use tack cloth to pick up the fine dust that you can't wipe or vacuum off.
In this day and age of low VOC finishes, especially in California where I don't think you can even buy alkyd /oil any more, you'll probably be workin' with water based products. Be mindful that your plywood finish ply (which I couldn't I.D. from the pics) can be sanded thru very easily, and... if it is a luan type, the surface ply may be a tropical mahogany like wood whose grain will tend to raise and get fuzzy from the water in the stain. Again...try it all on a hidden part first so you don't run into any unexpected surprises. Consider it an homage to Mr. Murphy and the wood gods, who are lookin' to get even with every wood worker for cuttin' down trees.
For future reference, you can't beat epoxy paints for toughness, chemicals and moisture resistance. I haven't used this one but it's similar to a local product that I have used on boat refurbs. Epoxy is what people use to paint garage floors and swimming pools, takes a lickin'.
http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategories/3048/Epoxy-Paint-1-Gallon
If possible try staining a piece on the bottom edge first to check your final color and finish when dry. The stain depends a lot on how you apply it so consistency is key.
As far as practicality of finish, it sounds as though you may be a student? If so and this set up is going to see a few moves in its life, return the stain and buy the paint. Much faster, much more durable and easier to repair.
Wear a respirator when sanding and painting. Gloves and eye protection as well. Just like fish, we can soak bad stuff up thru our skin, eyes, mouth and belly button, (fish don't have belly buttons do they?) The reason I've got time to spend on aquariums is because I worked in a cabinet shop where we didn't.
Good luck!
foolishfish, I think you single-handedly answered all my questions and concerns. After reading your response, I'll return the wood stain tomorrow (but keep the urethane) and buy black paint, which I saw yesterday at Home Depot.
My main concern was how well pine (and the plywood) would take stain. Given that it was finished before, I felt I was venturing into unknown territory.
While stain may look nicer, it's a lot easier to stain something you know will stain the way you want it to.
My main concern was how well pine (and the plywood) would take stain. Given that it was finished before, I felt I was venturing into unknown territory.
While stain may look nicer, it's a lot easier to stain something you know will stain the way you want it to.
