Starter Kit?

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BryanW3535

Registered Member
Jul 19, 2003
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I have been doing a lot of research through this site and many others and want to make my first tank SW. I am on a tight budget and want to know if this starter kit is a good deal:

"Its BIO-Wheel filters up to 250 gph, and the light/filter combo operates nearly silent, requiring no space behind the aquarium. The included two 5500°K fluorescent bulbs are enclosed in a clear, water-protected housing...

29-gallon Eclipse Show Glass aquarium, Eclipse 3 Hood, submersible aquarium heater, digital thermometer, 3 lbs. Instant Ocean Synthetic Aquarium Salt, hydrometer, fasTest Master Test Kit, water conditioner and instruction booklet."

Is there anything here I don't need or need a better model of?

Also, what are good species to start my first SW tank with? Something hardy but fun.
 
For some fish, that setup will be fine. However, corals and photosynthetics probably won't do well--not enough light.

Live rock and live sand are highly recommended, and I wouldn't put any media in the filter chamber. You may want to look into a protien skimmer--they improve water quality significantly.

For fish--look into smaller gobies and basslets. Avoid mandarin dragonettes (often called mandarin gobies), and scooter blennies (also in the dragonette family). A dwarf angel would make a nice centerpiece fish, but research first and avoid the sponge obligate feeders. Shrimp, hermits, snails, and crabs will all be great. I can almost gaurantee that the LFS will tell you to get damsels--don't. They are territorial little buggers, and will harrass and kill any other fish in such a small space. Clowns--in the damsel family--vary in size with species, but usually confine their aggression to other clowns, or fish invading their chosen host (rock, shell, mushroom--they do not need an anemone and I don't recommend an anemone in your tank).

HTH.
 
did you have luck with the eclipse and do you know if you can change out the bulbs to give enough light for corals?
 
Why do people always say that an anemone shouldn't be in a 29G tank? I agree, the lighting needs to be better, but the size is fine if that is the only big thing you want in the tank. You just have to give it a lot of room or else it will sting everything else around it. Do you see anything wrong with this anemone that has been in my tank for about 6 years now?

2270508762_9b74db3973.jpg


And VAFB huh OrionGirl? Lived out there for 18 years, worked IT for the base for 8 years.
 
first tank as a SW huh? usually when you have a first tank, you learn a lot of hard lessons, loose fish, etc. SW is really going to cost you, especially the price o the fish. sure you don't want to reconsider a nice freshwater?
 
We will just have to agree to disagree on that. My neighbors long tentacle rose anemone is in a 75G tank for the same amount of time and is the same size as mine. Mine looks much healthier than his though.

I am pretty sure mine is in a very healthy environment. I have these tests though if there is any you want me to run right now.. CA, Strontium, Iodine, Silicates, Phosphates, Ni/Na/Am/PH/Alk/Mg/SG/Temp ;)
 
And I don't consider a 29g tank a nano. Also, you are grouping ALL anemones in the same size? Here is my Anemone and it is about 12" fully extended:

http://www.wetwebmedia.com/condyanemones.htm
Condylactis gigantea, the Giant Anemone. Largest species in the range (6-12 inches in diameter when extended).
Click to expand...

My Anemone/maroon clown as babies 5+ years ago. (Yes, that is a yellow tang that went back very quickly)
2264482670_acde21e3f9.jpg


And now:
2233276237_e77f1299b1.jpg
 
That is simply because yours is one of the smaller species available. The popular "hosting" species get significantly larger than that. Most reach a minimum of 20", with others getting much larger. I don't think smaller tanks can maintain adequate water quality for such a large animal, especially considering how much food many of them require.

As far as those tests go, most of those are negligible. There are actually only a few parameters that actually affect anemones to any real extent--pH, temperature, salinity, alkalinity (some say calcium, but I have never noted that, myself). The others are almost meaningless when it comes to keeping these animals "happy."
 
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