Stocking a 75 Gallon...
- Thread starter hope
- Start date
Not really. If they are not breeding, no issues. If they do crossbreed, for the sake of others in the hobby, please don't allow the hybrids to end up in a LFS. This way, when someone purchases a red zebra or cobalt zebra, that's what they are actually receiving.
For diversity, in a 75-gal you could go with 3 to 4 species with 4 fish per species (try to aim for 1male/3female if possible); (or more than 4 fish per species if intending to overstock).
Due to the size bumblee's attain (7-8") you may want to omit these.
In the wild, the red zebra is typically a dimorphic species (blue males, orange females, considered to be the original form of this fish)...the 'orange' morph for both genders has become the most popular/common in the hobby (to the point where it's actually hard to find blue males in many places).
Female saulosi and red zebras bear a similarity and may pose a hybridization potential (not a problem if you don't intend to keep fry)
Power blues are also known as pseudotropheus socolofi.
Of your list the most aggressive species are the power blue, red zebra and bumblebee and all the species on your list are compatible with each other.
Due to the size bumblee's attain (7-8") you may want to omit these.
In the wild, the red zebra is typically a dimorphic species (blue males, orange females, considered to be the original form of this fish)...the 'orange' morph for both genders has become the most popular/common in the hobby (to the point where it's actually hard to find blue males in many places).
Female saulosi and red zebras bear a similarity and may pose a hybridization potential (not a problem if you don't intend to keep fry)
Power blues are also known as pseudotropheus socolofi.
Of your list the most aggressive species are the power blue, red zebra and bumblebee and all the species on your list are compatible with each other.
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This is extremely helpful information - especially the bumblebee info. I'm just glad I found this out now ... It's always best to get "hands on" information instead of going by what you read in articles online. :bowing: I'd just like to thank you all for the great information and if there's anymore that I should know, please inform me 
Very good advice above (from kay-bee).
Thanks for the clarification, I didn't know that. I was assuming blue zebras were being referred to. I'm so used to using the scientific name for cichlids, I'm not up on the common names too much.
And yes, I agree that the ps. socolofi can be quite aggressive. Mine sure was!
kay-bee said:
Thanks for the clarification, I didn't know that. I was assuming blue zebras were being referred to. I'm so used to using the scientific name for cichlids, I'm not up on the common names too much.
And yes, I agree that the ps. socolofi can be quite aggressive. Mine sure was!
hope said:...and if there's anymore that I should know, please inform me
Introduce new africans in groups of 4 or more when possible and add the least aggressive species first. If the more aggressive species are added first they can be quite hard on less aggressive new comers.
This becomes less of an issue if you're acquiring small mbuna (2" or less in size at time of purchase), and more of an issue if adding full grown cichlids.
kay-bee said:
The LFS where we'll be getting them (the only place I'll go anymore) he sells them at about 2 inches for $4.99 each. Right now, he does have a few full grown, but those were brought in by someone and are up for "adoption".
He also makes sure he only has so many on hand, so his tanks don't get too crowded. He's a great guy....small shop and nothing pretty to look at, but he knows his stuff and he really takes care of the fish.
