I used something soft under most of my tanks. Just in case a small piece of gravel or dirt got under it, or the surface is not level. I do it for peace of mind.
Styrofoam Under Tank Questions
- Thread starter jcahow
- Start date
"Actually, done right, the styrofoam should be visible. As others have pointed out previously, it needs to be cut to fit under the entire tank, including the frame. You can paint the edge of the foam before positioning everything so it blends in with the frame or stand. "
The reason I said I would not see the Styrofoam is because the stand I was looking at has wood trim around the bottom of the tank that is high enough to cover the Styrofoam. This trim would also limit the size that the Styrofoam could be cut (on three sides) as the trim is only slightly set back from the tank itself (maybe 1/8").
The Styrofoam could fill out the stand area but would barely extend out past the edges of the tank itself. I am not sure if that matters or whether it would be better to have a stand without any border trim which would allow a larger piece.
The reason I said I would not see the Styrofoam is because the stand I was looking at has wood trim around the bottom of the tank that is high enough to cover the Styrofoam. This trim would also limit the size that the Styrofoam could be cut (on three sides) as the trim is only slightly set back from the tank itself (maybe 1/8").
The Styrofoam could fill out the stand area but would barely extend out past the edges of the tank itself. I am not sure if that matters or whether it would be better to have a stand without any border trim which would allow a larger piece.
I don't know how well the edges of regular construction styrofoam would hold up if only extending 1/8" beyond the frame. The rigid foam insulation or laminate flooring underlayment others have recommended might work better.
If you are using a standard tank and stand, you want to cut the foam to the size of the stand surface. The size I recommended (73"x19") will be about the right size. Mabye a 1/4" less. A standard 72" long tank is about 72.5" with the trim. An off the shelf stand is slighly bigger.
The foam I recommended is very strong and the edges actually hold up very well. Your only issue would be whether you want to see the tank trim if you raise it 1/2". The trim piece on the tank stand is "suppose" to hid the black or oak trim. If you get an oak stand, just make sure you get an oak trim tank instead of the black.
The foam I recommended is very strong and the edges actually hold up very well. Your only issue would be whether you want to see the tank trim if you raise it 1/2". The trim piece on the tank stand is "suppose" to hid the black or oak trim. If you get an oak stand, just make sure you get an oak trim tank instead of the black.
spunjin
Manzanita Supplier
I used styrofoam under all my tanks. I get it from Lowes. I make it 6"longer than the tank. After the tank has been set up for 24 hrs with everything including water. Then I use a razor knife and cut of all but 1/8" and paint it. IME the heater lights do not come on as often as they use to during the colder months. So I think it does help with insulation of the tank.
spunjin
Manzanita Supplier
Ok. My 135 is sitting on a couple of sheets in storage on a temporary stand from my university's biology department. I was wondering what the purpose of that was and then I ran into this thread. Good to know.
I use it under all my tanks also. Moved a bunch of tanks around today and nearly no compression on the foam underneath at all. Tanks had been on the styrofoam for a little over 3 years. I get mine at the hardware store. Made for insulation in the walls of homes.
you can get differnet foams that will compress so if u have a slight warp in a stand get softer stuff if not u can get the harder stuff but i have it on all my tanks and it has to have it under all my warrenteis
