Substrate replaced and tank rebuilt

Day 25 update:

Stuff is growing yes....

Water parameters 2 days after 50% water change:

pH - 7.0
3 dKH
7 dGH
NO3 - 10 mg/L
PO4 - 3.0 mg/L
Calculated CO2 - 8.4 mg/L

At water change I added 2 teaspoons Mg, 1 teaspoon KCl...

I mixed a solution of Plantex CSM+B: 1 teaspoon Plantex to 200 mL water.
I dose 7 mL on a daily basis.

Being concerned about my CO2 being to low, I added 1 teaspoon of baking soda to raise the KH. That was yesterday. Today's water parameters (3 days after water change):

pH - 7.6
4 dKH
7 dGH
NO3 - 10 mg/L
PO4 - 3.0 mg/L
Calculated CO2 - 2.8 mg/L

Well great.....I should have known the pH was going to go up. But I expected a higher KH.....not sure how to handle this one but I keep thinking I have to build a better CO2 reactor.

I added 4 cardina japonica from my 10 gallon into the 55.

My didiplis diandra is slowly dwindling away. This plant seems very delicate and even though it was growing great right after the substrate change, I think I may abandon it. But I really liked the way it looked when it was thriving. Everything else is taking off. My anubias is growing like crazy, as is the cabomba, rotala indica, and water sprite. I had some val left over from before the substrate change and it is starting to regrow very well also. The water onions have large roots coming off the bulbs whereas before they had none.

Here's an updated pic. If you look carefully you can see my lamp and TV in the reflection....oops

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Are you using N and P during the week? By that I mean are either or both testing lower after a few days?
Can't understand why your P is consistently high at every posting you make. I haven't seen it below, I think 2.0 in any of the tests you've posted. You did say that it was low coming out of the tap, correct?
I have to think that it and N will start to drop as the plants fill in. This will be aided by better CO2 content in the water table. You should be looking for at least 15 - 20ppm. 20 - 25 would be better.
Yes, what kind of reactor are you using?
What does your DIY system consist of.....how many bottles, and are they 2liter? No leaks?

Len
 
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N and P are not added at all to this tank as a fertilizer. Test results show very little deviation from 10 mg/L for Nitrates and 3 mg/L for Phosphates throughout the week. Immeadiately after a water change (50%/week), phosphates will drop to about 2 mg/L. Nitrate stays the same.

Phosphate coming out of the tap is between 1.5 and 2.0 mg/L . So it's high to begin with. Nitrate from the tap is 10 mg/L.

About the CO2 setup:

DIY with 2 2L bottles, rotated weekly, with 2 cups sugar to 1/2 teaspoon yeast.

There is always CO2 flowing, no leaks, everything is connected via brass barbs on the top of the bottles into a brass gang valve and then straight into the tank (I know....I need a check valve). However, my reactor is nothing but the impeller from my power head chopping and spitting. There are always tiny bubbles floating everywhere. I know it's not the best diffusion method but have not put together a real reactor yet. I do not like the idea of having a siphon tube in my tank all the time just to diffuse the CO2. I plan to pump it into my canister filter. However, I want to install a diffuser between the intake and the filter. I saw an article on this recently, I'll have to dig it up and get on this very soon.
 
There are a number of in-line reactors out there. I have some information on a really good one, but when I tried to attach pics. and text to this post,
I was told they were too large(pixels) to attach. I'm not real good with uploading stuff.
That would be the way to go since you have a cannister.
I will say this though. I use a power head in each of my 55s for injecting and they do a good job. Both are fed by pressurized CO2 however and get a steady flow of CO2. At about 1 bbl./sec. I get about 15 - 18ppm.
You should be getting better than 2 - 3ppm even with DIY. Do you know your bubble rate?
Keep the plants growing and expanding their mass, and you will see them start to use the N and P. Some people would say you're blessed with N and P coming out of the tap, like you have.

Len
 

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Thanks djlen,

I found essentially the same reactor on GWAPA's website

Before my KH and pH went up my CO2 readings were almost fine...I believe that the peat under the substrate really lowers my KH. It's not too low I guess, 3 dKH but when I tried to raise the KH to increase the CO2 concentration, the pH shot up. This caused the CO2 concentration to go real low.....

Time.....will tell....
 
Let me know, if you go looking for all the parts for that reactor, where you got them.
I looked all over, including HD, and Lowes and have yet to find all the parts.

Len
 
I know this belongs in DIY but it's on topic here. Just an fyi...I used an empty Flourish bottle with a microjet pump to make a simple working reactor. I tried injecting into the filter (too noisy), tried the inline reactor (worked but a p.i.t.a. to clean). If you're into DIY...I cut the bottom of the bottle out, carefully cut the screw top part off, used a piece of rubber (like a washer) to wedge the "adapter" of the pump into the top. Drilled a hole in the top (off center obviously) for an airline connector I siliconed into it (inlet for CO2) and threw a couple boiballs inside and a piece of sponge to block off the bottom. Also a couple holes on the sides to attach suction cups to. The pump slides off and on to the adapter easily, the color of the bottle blends with my dark background, and it all comes out for an easy clean.
 
Clown Loach = Ich problem more often than not.

How long have you had your tire track? I've had mine for about 3-4 months, and doesnt seem to have done too much growing. Oh, and be careful with ich medication with the eel - almost killed mine (turned white!) using the normal medications. Is fine now though.
 
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