SuperMassive Going Pressurized Thread

DJDrZ

DJDrZ

AC Members
Jul 31, 2010
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Collegeville, PA
Well, it seems like lots of my problems (and many others) come from the uneven balance of nutrients in tanks with plants (whether heavily planted or like mine, fish with plants or something in between). The lords of this forum have always been helpful answering the same questions, and now I am going to try to encapsulate the wisdom of the ages into one thread.

So, ask yourself, are you water parameters stable, is your tank having no issues? Then you don't need to go pressurized. Anything else and going pressurized will most likely benefit you and your tank.

Here is a link to what most people refer to as the definitive thread on the subject of pressurized CO2.

The parts are detailed quite nicely in the above link. I don't want to rehash it, but I want to supply links and generate discussion.

First off, everyone understands spending more yields higher quality. Not everyone can spend more, nor does everyone want to. If you are going to comment on this thread please be specific as to your criticisms or your praise.

A CO2 tank: Get the size you need and afford. 10 pound (10#) cylinders seem to be most highly recommended. Where does a newbie get one?
You can buy one from one of the many specialty aquarium stores on line, especially ones that specialize in planted tanks. This tends to be the most expensive route. You can try Craigslist for deals. Another infrequently mentioned, if at all, route is the local beer distributor or homebrew store. You can also go this route online, e.g this. The one key appears to be to make sure that it has the female CGA320 valve. I think this is standard.
As to the grade of the CO2, cheapest possible is fine.
Refills can be done at many possible locations like Praxair, Airgas. Local beer distributors, home brew stores, possibly Lowes and Home Depot, but I have never seen that mentioned.


Next Post: Regulators!
 
Regulators

Once you have decided to take the plunge and you found the tank, it's time to regulate the release of said gas.
One approach to this is to just purchase a package from a well-known retailer.
I don't mean this to be comprehensive, but here is the list of sites I have been looking at:
Drs Smith and Foster
Green Lead Aquaria
Aquacave
That Fish Place
Big Als
Bobs Tropical Plants

Of course, maybe you are more adventurous or just willing to put your own setup together.

So, the first thing you need, the main component is a regulator. There are a ton of regulators out there, and like art, everyone knows what they like! I have read that you should have a dual STAGE as opposed to dual GAUGE. I have read that dual gauge (i.e. not dual STAGE) are prone to end of tank dumps which can gas your fish and of course ruin the whole reason why you have a tank.
I have had some trouble finding out which ones are dual STAGE as opposed to dual gauge.

Sumo Regulators: comes with and without solenoids and bubble counters.
Best Aquarium Regulator: It says its the best, is it?
Aqua Medic Regulator: ~130$ naked; 145$ with solenoid.
Aquatic Life: 150$ with solenoid
Red Sea: 140$
Milwaukee Regulator: ~90 $ with solenoid and bubble counter.

So, what do people think of these regulators? What other ones did I miss?


An ancillary part of this post is the needle valve. Many people like the Milwaukee regulator just fine, but are very unhappy with the needle valve and end up replacing it with a new one.
Either the Fabco NV55 or the Ideal 51-1-12

If you decide to buy parts individually, I recommend using Amazon or ebay to try to find it cheaper. Never hurts to look.
 
If going the Milwaukee route understand that obtaining consistent rates can be difficult and one should invest in a good needle valve to do this. A fabco works really well.


Also diffusion methods is another important factor in order to really get benefits from your system.

I have tried internal reactor's and the misting method with the best results from misting.

The misting method i use is i put a microairstone under the intake of a maxi jet pump and then the blade inside the pump cuts the bubbles up further and creates a wonderful mist around the tank.



A drop checker is also a must. Check ebay because you can often find them for close to $10 dollars the only downside is you have to wait 2-3 weeks for shipping.
 
Nice grouping of info, good job!

I have been using dual STAGE regulators ever since I plunges into the pressurized co2 world and it has been great. I can run all of the bottles until there is not an ounce of gas left and maintain a constant bubble rate into my fish tank.

This is a topic of heated debate on a few sites but the facts are that if you want the most reliable setup you need to go dual stage. The problem and point that single stage proponents point out is that you have to buy a used dual stage regulator so there is no warranty and the risk of failure is on you. IME and IMO ANY used dual stage regulator that looks to be in good condition will outlast and out perform ANY single stage device. There really is nothing inside that can fail. Single stage regulator proponents also claim that with a "quality" needle valve you can forgo the dreaded EOTD (end of tank dump). This is absolutely bollocks, the function of a needle valve is to directly control output based on a given input, it cannot keep a steady flow (bubble rate) unless the output of the regulator is constant. Only a dual stage regulator can do this for you.
 
I have the green leaf aquarium smith regulator with bubble counter and ideal needle valve. It is amazingly easy to work with! :)
 
bsmith said:
Nice grouping of info, good job!

I have been using dual STAGE regulators ever since I plunges into the pressurized co2 world and it has been great. I can run all of the bottles until there is not an ounce of gas left and maintain a constant bubble rate into my fish tank.

This is a topic of heated debate on a few sites but the facts are that if you want the most reliable setup you need to go dual stage. The problem and point that single stage proponents point out is that you have to buy a used dual stage regulator so there is no warranty and the risk of failure is on you. IME and IMO ANY used dual stage regulator that looks to be in good condition will outlast and out perform ANY single stage device. There really is nothing inside that can fail. Single stage regulator proponents also claim that with a "quality" needle valve you can forgo the dreaded EOTD (end of tank dump). This is absolutely bollocks, the function of a needle valve is to directly control output based on a given input, it cannot keep a steady flow (bubble rate) unless the output of the regulator is constant. Only a dual stage regulator can do this for you.
Click to expand...

Can you give examples of readily available dual STAGE regulators?
 
I am by no means an expert, but have been playing with the co2 for a while now.

Tank - I have a 10 pound alunimun tank and its nice and light when carring it as well as positioning it into the stand. If I were to do it again I would most likely rent a steel cylinder. Not many places in my area dont like to fill tanks on a walkin basis. Many beer stores will rent them and offer a walkin exchange. Before you buy check your area for fill stations. Also a steel cylinder can get pretty heavy so if you dont like handeling heavy things buying the aluminum tank might be best.

Regulator- my first regulator was a Milwaukee I think, it lastes about 2 years. I looked for all the avalible options and ended up buying this http://www.aquariumplants.com/AquariumPlants_com_s_Electronic_Co2_Regulator_p/co2.htm

I have had it for about a year now and it works as advertised. What ended up selling me on it was the 3 year warranty.
 
Where does the Flow Go?

So, you have made the decision to go pressurized, found your tank, bought a regulator, now what? Follow the Flow!

As has been noted here many, MANY times, plants only need CO2 when the lights are on. Running your CO2 24 hours a day is wasteful, and if you are putting enough into the tank, potentially lethal to your fish. The simple solution is to have a solenoid on your regulator. A solenoid is a device that shuts off the flow of gas through your regulator. This means you can put your CO2 on a timer and not waste gas during the night. Make sure it is a power-off type (I think that is the terminology) that closes when there is no power, that way during a power outage the gas flow is stopped.
Many regulators come with the solenoid as part of the unit already.
If not a simple google search will fine plenty of suppliers.
I think most people would highly recommend a solenoid.

Now that your system is getting there, you have the tank, the regulator and solenoid to control the flow. Where does it go?

See the Next Post!
 
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