SuperMassive Going Pressurized Thread

Where does the Flow Go II?

Now that you have the CO2 ready to go, where should it go?

First off, it needs to go into tubing. There are many threads on this, but here is a recent one. You can get CO2-proof tubing, or silicon tubing, or use plain tubing. I have not found anything approaching consensus as to what is best. Its probably a matter of what you want to spend.

Once you have the tubing set up, it needs to go into the tank. There are several approaches:
1. Diffuser: ceramic fritted filters that create a fine mist of bubbles.
2. Homemade Diffuser: a combination of designs typically involving a small intake filter modified to chop the incoming bubbles up into a fine mist.
3. Straight into the Filter intake: the lazy person's approach. You put the tubing so that the bubbles go straight into the filter and get chopped up there.

Again, this appears to be something that simply depends on your level or financing and aesthetics. I don't believe there is much of a difference in how the CO2 performs in these different tanks.
 
you can only do the straight into the filter intake if you have a canaster filter. if you do this in a HOB filter then you will lose almost all your co2.

Remember when you have surface agitation this causes the gas in the water to equalize to the atmospheric concentrations and for co2 that's close to 3-5 ppm.
 
Jesus....220.00 that's Ludacris and I aint talking about the rapper neither.
time and patience scouring ebay and craigslist can usually yeild you a smith or victor regulator for 50-100 bucks.

I have now lowered my rating on Milwaukee regulators to "Piece of Junk". Not only does my metering valve blow, my solenoid has failed.

IMO, you can mostly make up for the lack of a dual stage body with premium parts that follow it.

I didnt read through all of your links but since bsmith says they are good, then i agree with him!
 
time and patience scouring ebay and craigslist can usually yeild you a smith or victor regulator for 50-100 bucks.

I have now lowered my rating on Milwaukee regulators to "Piece of Junk". Not only does my metering valve blow, my solenoid has failed.

IMO, you can mostly make up for the lack of a dual stage body with premium parts that follow it.

I didnt read through all of your links but since bsmith says they are good, then i agree with him!

how long have you had it?
 
Can you give examples of readily available dual STAGE regulators?

Im not sure how the staff at APC feels about Ebay links but if you search for dual stage regulators with a cga-320 fitting then they will be able to screw right on to a co2 cylinder.

This is a great thread about dual stage regulators and there are often some great deals that are linked up on there too.

C is about a knowledgeable on this subject as any other I have met. He has helped me and many others find great deals on them and also with questions regarding the subject.

you can only do the straight into the filter intake if you have a canister filter. if you do this in a HOB filter then you will lose almost all your co2.

Remember when you have surface agitation this causes the gas in the water to equalize to the atmospheric concentrations and for co2 that's close to 3-5 ppm.

You can use a HOB filter but you just have to be very mindful of water levels in the tank. Keeping them up to where there is as minimal surface agitation as possible. Also, all you would need to do is crank up the bubble rate and you would be just fine. Not the optimal setup but it is still a widely used layout.

time and patience scouring ebay and craigslist can usually yeild you a smith or victor regulator for 50-100 bucks.

I have now lowered my rating on Milwaukee regulators to "Piece of Junk". Not only does my metering valve blow, my solenoid has failed.

IMO, you can mostly make up for the lack of a dual stage body with premium parts that follow it.

I didnt read through all of your links but since bsmith says they are good, then i agree with him!

This is a common misconception spread by people who sell/promote only single stage regulators (not you coach, specifically). The ONLY way to negate EOTD or other flow discrepancies due to changing bottle pressures is to have a dual stage regulator, period end of report. I even emailed Ideal and Swagelok on the matter and both reps from both companies agreed that no matter how precise/expensive your needle valve is it can only adjust output in correlation to a specific input pressure.
 
This is a common misconception spread by people who sell/promote only single stage regulators (not you coach, specifically). The ONLY way to negate EOTD or other flow discrepancies due to changing bottle pressures is to have a dual stage regulator, period end of report. I even emailed Ideal and Swagelok on the matter and both reps from both companies agreed that no matter how precise/expensive your needle valve is it can only adjust output in correlation to a specific input pressure.
I consider myself corrected then....thanks for the info!
 
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