You must remember if the bottom was glued on top or in the middle of all four panels. Did it sit nicely on top or was it an evil sandwich job
Tank bottom hairline crack solutions, brainstorming please
- Thread starter CWO4GUNNER
- Start date
You must remember if the bottom was glued on top or in the middle of all four panels. Did it sit nicely on top or was it an evil sandwich job
WOW - I cant believe the price you got !!!!! WOWOWOW!!!!!!! DUDE that's a great Price!
AS I remember the 4 sides SAT on the bottom. However, get that molding off and verify before you order the glass. Its not worth the gamble.
Don't guess get an exact measurement. I just re-sealed a tank a few months back. I had to replace 1 pain just as you do. I cut out the pain and cut out the seals but I left the rest of the tank together and did not cut the pieces apart. I just cut the fill seals out and cleaned it all up. Then I set the new piece in place with silicone and re-did all the corner seals. It worked great!!!! I never trusted cutting out one pain and Not re-sealing the entire tank! The silicone between the pieces holds it together and seals it, But the corner seal in the main water seal and it also adds a LOT of strength. I would recommend getting help cause it would be best tio lay a bead of silicone out and set the sides on the bottom. THE go streight to laying out the seals. Bottom first then do the corners from bottom to top. You got warc clean and fast. Silicon skins up quick!
Right now with just what I see its going to need a side pane as well and the frame is going to need replacing but I wont know for sure till I get it turned over. Any idea where one gets that aquarium framing, I have read that its a must or the glass has to be thicker on a frameless. Sigh sigh sigh
Why would you nee a new frame??? If the frame is cracked it can be glued/epoxied.The top might add strength but not the bottom. Is the glass side cracked or chipped? Chips in the glass don't matter that's just looks.
PPS my old 225 had a 3/4 Bottom so I guess thats why It was so much more than yours BUT good for you!!!
OK here is the bottom damage assessment and photo's:
1. Long view below
note the crack and paint that easily comes off like it was painted yesterday. Note bottom glass inside 4 panels and no bottom frame clearance
Closeup of the crack below from the bottom not as long as I had suspected caused by high point hit or load on center due to no bottom frame 1/4" gap clearance.
Below note bottom glass is 1/2 " and inset 1/32" into 4 side panels. Note red comments in photo
Below shows only other damage side hit when apparently shoved or dropped braking chunk out the size of a quarter, note comments in red
Last photo below shows macro shot of chunk (no cracks) missing that should be OK if covered with 1/2 inch and siliconed.
OK, can I do the same thing as archangel77 and kyryah but without removing the bottom glass because I don't have to as the sides are already exposed and I will have silicone on the entire bottom? If so should I order the glass with line up pluming holes or do they not make 2" plumbing fittings? Or should I just get rid of the overflows and forget about the 2" holes that might not line up anyway! Unless of course I use 1" holes to insure a line up.
1. Long view below
note the crack and paint that easily comes off like it was painted yesterday. Note bottom glass inside 4 panels and no bottom frame clearance
Closeup of the crack below from the bottom not as long as I had suspected caused by high point hit or load on center due to no bottom frame 1/4" gap clearance.
Below note bottom glass is 1/2 " and inset 1/32" into 4 side panels. Note red comments in photo
Below shows only other damage side hit when apparently shoved or dropped braking chunk out the size of a quarter, note comments in red
Last photo below shows macro shot of chunk (no cracks) missing that should be OK if covered with 1/2 inch and siliconed.
OK, can I do the same thing as archangel77 and kyryah but without removing the bottom glass because I don't have to as the sides are already exposed and I will have silicone on the entire bottom? If so should I order the glass with line up pluming holes or do they not make 2" plumbing fittings? Or should I just get rid of the overflows and forget about the 2" holes that might not line up anyway! Unless of course I use 1" holes to insure a line up.
Well so far in my research every all glass aquarium assembly or repair had the bottom glass inside the perimeter of the other 4 panels not on top. Are there any others here that can shed light on whether a bottom can or cannot go on top of the 4 panels? also there is a spacing issue with the glass that the small space between panels has to maintain a 1/32" of silicone on anything larger then 75 gallons, true, not true?
I can tell you from my experience you can cap the 4 side pains with one Sheet of glass. If I were you I would cut out the bottom and replace it with a sheet that would "cap" the entire bottom. AS for the thickness of the silicone seal? I don't think that matters as long as its even and the glass is clean when its applied. After looking at those pics it does seem you need a new Plastic Frame. there should be some frame under the bottom glass. The holes are up to you. I am sure you can easily get the glass with holes but get your fitting before you order the glass so you know what size for sure you need the holes if you do that.
I guess that's it - Looks like you got a JOB ahead of you.
Arkangel77
I guess that's it - Looks like you got a JOB ahead of you.
Arkangel77
Thanks Arkangel77 for the reply and input which has helped me greatly as other inputs help me process a solution and decision which has evolved based on what others have said here and looking at the actual problem, why its called brain storming.
After considering all the input so far which has pointed me in the right direction, all the physical facts involving the broken glass, research into glass panel replacement, use of tempered glass bottoms (extremely strong), and much soul searching for guidance I have decided on the following plan:
(1) Clean up the bottom of the aquarium today in the back of my truck and drive it over to Desert Glass to have them make an exact measurement seeing as how the bottom is exposed. Incidentally there really isn't anything wrong with the bottom frame, that's just the way it was made 1/2 strap and no bottom and its intact all the way round, it was the chip I felt before looking that made me assume the frame had been broke or cut off, not the case and reusable.
(2) Order a 71x23x1/2" exact copy of the bottom without reef ready holes and leaning toward tempered glass as tempered glass is 5 times stronger then regular glass especially for stacking rocks and for $10 extra cost its completely worth it IMO. Any concerns to the contrary please advise.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PgEwEiTyYcs
(3) Using a box cutter Cut and Remove inner bottom seal leaving overflows to use as handles to help remove glass. Cut bottom sandwich seal between bottom and side panels only leaving structure of all 4 sides intact for easy replacement of bottom panel, and remove panel, clean up mess. Wait for new panel.
(4) Prep 4 intact panels and new bottom by removing all bits of old loose silicone from the work area and clean with D-spirits or acetone. Lay aquarium on side and install new glass inside 4 panels flush (to not due so may compromise bottom seal as inside placement is much stronger then outside capping). Use 1/32 spacers to set glass panels evenly for silicone wedge seal, use duct or aluminum tape on the inside to hold glass in place while installing silicone. Install tape on bottom where silicone has been wedged and remove spacers and fill spacer voids with silicone, and also fill in side panel chip with silicone (if chip in side panel still leaks after curing and water fill test, side panel will be ordered and replaced much easier for stability then at same time as bottom glass). Stand aquarium right side up on flat strait board and remove inside tape filling any wedge silicone gaps from opposite side, let cure for 48 hours without moving.
(5) Remove remaining inside seals on all 4 panels vacuuming out all bits of silicone and clean area with alcohol careful not to damage new sandwich seal with solvent. Seal entire aquarium in one continuous silicone bead and use silicone spreader tool, then let stand on flat strait board for 72 hours.
(6) Remove aquarium from truck onto DIY dolly stand with flat hard top and place layer of 1" polystyrene closed cell foam between stand top and aquarium and insure aquarium is level to ground using wedges if necessary. Water test for 24 hours at 25% capacity. If leak is detected find source and repair/seal (if leak comes from side panel chip, will stop and replace side panel) with silicone as appropriate. If no leaks fill to 50% for 24 hours, then 100% for 3 days with 400 GPM power head moving water inside.
(7) If successful move inside house and set up with FX5. Total cost increase to aquarium $150 or total of $350 (side panel cost if needed undetermined as of yet but suspect an added cost of $60). Cost for labor is totally offset by OJT experience which is priceless IMO.
Any thoughts please feel free to vent, scold, praise, advise.:thm:
After considering all the input so far which has pointed me in the right direction, all the physical facts involving the broken glass, research into glass panel replacement, use of tempered glass bottoms (extremely strong), and much soul searching for guidance I have decided on the following plan:
(1) Clean up the bottom of the aquarium today in the back of my truck and drive it over to Desert Glass to have them make an exact measurement seeing as how the bottom is exposed. Incidentally there really isn't anything wrong with the bottom frame, that's just the way it was made 1/2 strap and no bottom and its intact all the way round, it was the chip I felt before looking that made me assume the frame had been broke or cut off, not the case and reusable.
(2) Order a 71x23x1/2" exact copy of the bottom without reef ready holes and leaning toward tempered glass as tempered glass is 5 times stronger then regular glass especially for stacking rocks and for $10 extra cost its completely worth it IMO. Any concerns to the contrary please advise.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PgEwEiTyYcs
(3) Using a box cutter Cut and Remove inner bottom seal leaving overflows to use as handles to help remove glass. Cut bottom sandwich seal between bottom and side panels only leaving structure of all 4 sides intact for easy replacement of bottom panel, and remove panel, clean up mess. Wait for new panel.
(4) Prep 4 intact panels and new bottom by removing all bits of old loose silicone from the work area and clean with D-spirits or acetone. Lay aquarium on side and install new glass inside 4 panels flush (to not due so may compromise bottom seal as inside placement is much stronger then outside capping). Use 1/32 spacers to set glass panels evenly for silicone wedge seal, use duct or aluminum tape on the inside to hold glass in place while installing silicone. Install tape on bottom where silicone has been wedged and remove spacers and fill spacer voids with silicone, and also fill in side panel chip with silicone (if chip in side panel still leaks after curing and water fill test, side panel will be ordered and replaced much easier for stability then at same time as bottom glass). Stand aquarium right side up on flat strait board and remove inside tape filling any wedge silicone gaps from opposite side, let cure for 48 hours without moving.
(5) Remove remaining inside seals on all 4 panels vacuuming out all bits of silicone and clean area with alcohol careful not to damage new sandwich seal with solvent. Seal entire aquarium in one continuous silicone bead and use silicone spreader tool, then let stand on flat strait board for 72 hours.
(6) Remove aquarium from truck onto DIY dolly stand with flat hard top and place layer of 1" polystyrene closed cell foam between stand top and aquarium and insure aquarium is level to ground using wedges if necessary. Water test for 24 hours at 25% capacity. If leak is detected find source and repair/seal (if leak comes from side panel chip, will stop and replace side panel) with silicone as appropriate. If no leaks fill to 50% for 24 hours, then 100% for 3 days with 400 GPM power head moving water inside.
(7) If successful move inside house and set up with FX5. Total cost increase to aquarium $150 or total of $350 (side panel cost if needed undetermined as of yet but suspect an added cost of $60). Cost for labor is totally offset by OJT experience which is priceless IMO.
Any thoughts please feel free to vent, scold, praise, advise.:thm:
FLASH! Good news (hopefully). The owner of the tank called me and is bringing back the money and said he had no idea and bought it that way said he received my email and felt he had to come down want to leave me with the broke tank for free. But I told him if he would be so honorable as to do that I will make him a new offer on the tank and still send him home with gas money but that action speaks louder then words. So pay me back first and Ill make you an offer. Im going to give him $50 plus gas, the mere gesture in itself if done deserves favorable recognition IMO.
