tank breaking risks

Shimming involves placing spacers of some sort (wood shims are very common for this application, but I prefer 1/8" aluminum barstock) to level or plumb the junction of two planes. The bottom of your stand and the floor, for instance.

I have tanks that are less level than the 55g that you're describing, and as such I wouldn't take the risk try to shim an active tank.
 
I would have to agree to not try to shim an active tank, it is a greater risk of breaking a seam while manipulating the tank. That is something you do when it is all broken down, and you always shim the floor to stand area (not the stand to tank area). My tank looks like it is out of plumb if you look at the water, but it is dead on... It is the water current that makes it look that way...
 
With the glass tank, the weight and stress goes into the outer perimeter of the bottom (edges).
Try to keep the tank flat as possible.
Localized high (and low) spots is what causes failures in tanks.
Yeah, don't shim under the tank - that's asking for trouble.
Get a nice flat (thick!) board and shim that.
I was able to get a 49" x 19" x 1.5" laminate panel (for my 60G) from Home Depot for *51 cents* cause it was a leftover. :)
Other tricks is to use some (pliable?) foam sheet underneath to take up any irregularities (works better for flat-bottomed acrylic tanks).
How long have you had this tank?
If it's been years, then I wouldn't worry about it...
 
There's also...

For larger tanks they sometimes add a clamp to the top middle, especially for longer tanks, to reinforce the middle, since it lacks the support that the sides have. It's also just extra insurance, and I know it doesn't involve your glue/plastic question, but it may easer your mind a bit. We're getting a 100 gallon that has the clamp. it goes over the top and hangs over the sides, clamping onto the glass on the outside. I'm not sure if they sell them in aquarium stores or if they have to be made, but its just a thought.
 
Cool advice guys.

What about water level concerns? I know that wetting/drying/re-wetting the glue is a big cause of glue trouble. What about at the top of the tank, where evaporation occurs (like on vacations when refilling/waterchanging are not options...) ... and the water level lowers ... is this something to think about? :dive2:
 
That's nothing to worry about. Tanks (and sealant) are made to withstand years and years of evaporation and moist/dry periods. So as long as it is nothing but normal evaporation and refilling of tank water, you'll be fine.
 
The one time I have heard to be wary is if you are buying a used tank and the tank has sat outside for any time. The sun's rays deteriorate the silicone making the tank more likely to unzip.

Not being level isn't a big deal as long as the area the tank is sitting on is flat with no warping or high spots. Some times the floor can be uneaven like that and you might need to use shims to keep the floor from stressing the stand out of square which would be bad for the tank.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
AquariaCentral.com
Top Bottom