Tank Expansion Project

Hello Pete, you're working out one of my future projects for me...great! You're on full steam it seems, going from all purchased tanks to all DIY.
I like it. Trying to get more time for my 99 Gallon to finish, but still a way off, too much work right now and not having Saturday's off is a big handicap here.
Keep up the pictures, will save me quite some thinking... :-)
 
Oh...I'm there Pete...not posting too much lately but following the news. Moving my factory to a new building and that's a load of work.

You wouldn't believe what kind of things you have to do here to get your licenses done....
Yesterday's conversation with Customs Officers to get approval to move went about like this:

Customs Officer: "You have and entertainment budget in your company yes?"
My colleague (in Thai): "Well, not fixed budget really"
Customs Officer: "But you take us out for dinner every now and then yes?"
My colleague: "Well yes, we can do that when we finish moving, quite busy right now"
Customs Officer: "So after dinner we can enjoy some more with ladies yes?"
My colleague: "Mmmmh, shall we finish moving first?"

No joke, that's your average provincial government official...

Cheers...
Luc
 
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Ken cut all new vertical boards, cut some plywood sides, and cut the bottom plywood even for me. I'll be able to assemble the two 170 gallon tanks and put the glass in. The 160 and 215 need sides cut.
 
Here's what I've done so far in the order of completion:

Cut 2x3 lumber for interior frames

48" pieces for top and bottom
1/8" taller than height - (1.5" * 2) = 1/8" + 24" - 3" = 21-1/8" for the side pieces of frame for 90 gallon glass

Cut bottom plywood 48" x factory width

Cut plywood sides 48" x 24-1/8" + bottom plywood thickness

Assemble 2x3 frames with 3" deck screws. Only one screw per join is needed and no glue used

Test fit glass

Attach frame to plywood bottom on factory width. Used liquid nails in between plywood and frame and only a few 2" deck screws. No need to do any more than tack it because there will be 3" deck screws through it later.

Attach first plywood side with liquid nails between it and frame and on the bottom plywood edge. Used only 3 2" deck screws to attach to frame and one or two to secure side to bottom plywood edge if there's a gap between the two. This squishes them together until the glue dries. No need to remove screw after.

Test fit glass again.

Apply small bead of silicone to inside face of frame. Try to stay in the middle so when the glass is installed the bead is flattened but doesn't squish out. The silicone is just a cushion for the glass and adheres it to the frame.

Check the fit to be sure the glass is seated against the plywood bottom. We put the glass in place then I lifted it from the top and held it while Ken put the bead of silicone on the frame. After that I tilted the glass down into place. Have the frame that the glass is going on on the bottom and let gravity do it's thing to hold the glass in place after siliconing.

Weight glass evenly to make sure the silicone is adequately distributed.

Set aside for a few hours.

After the silicon is set, attach the other plywood side in the same manner. Set aside to let the silicone cure for 24-48 hours before working any more on it.

Cut two 2x3 boards for the top outside edge 48" and two 2x3 boards for the bottom edge 48".

Cut 4 2x3 boards 44.5" for the bottom supports.

I've decided to use 2x4s along the outside bottom edge to give more surface to screw the plywood to from the inside.

The top frame of the the tank will be 2x4s as well.

I'm working on the two 170s right now. That's the latest on my progress.

Pics soon.
 
sweet! the corner tank is awsome, i would love to have one of those in my room!
 
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