Tank water is cloudy!

mjparr said:
2. Actually cut down a bit on your water changes ( I would recommend 10% a week instead of 25%) you are actually removing bacteria and stimulating further bloom.
I'm sorry, but regardless of your fish-keeping experience, this statement is completely untrue. Bacteria do not live in the water column, they live in the substrate, rocks, and filter.

Water changes should never be decreased, only increased. With a high bioload, I would switch to 50% weekly water changes in order to handle the high level of pollution the fish are generating.

Do not clean your filter material in tap water. Just swish it in old tank water to remove the mulm (slimy stuff) which can prevent nitrite eating bacteria from doing their job.

Changing the substrate with such a large bio-load removed too much of the beneficial bacteria from your tank, which would account for the bacterial bloom. Add some floss and sponges to your filter for bacteria to colonize on.

5. Forget about phos-zorb junk. You have live plants, let them take care of the nitrate/phosphate load.
I agree about the phos-zorb, however we don't know what his phosphate level is, nor his nitrate level. This is a bit of a blanket statement to make without those numbers.

If the phosphate level is not in ratio with the nitrates, then the algae will out-compete the plants for nutrients and take over the tank.

If you can infidsg35, pick up an AP nitrates test kit and check your nitrates.

Roan
 
infidsg35 said:
I ran tests on my water. My PH stays at 7.0 Nitrites=0 Ammonia=0 GH=6 KH=3 CO2=3 Chlorine=0. These are my numbers every time a run the tests. I NEVER had nitrites or Ammonia test above 0 after establishment.

I just read where you were saying you have CO2 set up. How are you keeping your pH at 7? IME 3 dKH is rather low for CO2 injection. What is your pH and KH out of the tap?

Assuming your KH out of the tap is also 3: if your KH drops to 0 -- and it could when it is consumed via natural processes in the tank -- then your bacteria will be unable to mulitply and support your bioload. Regular large waterchanges, to bring the tank up to the same chemistry as your source water, will help prevent that, but we really need to know what your KH and pH are out of the tap.

Roan
 
Roan Art- I will be picking up a NitrAte kit today on my lunch and will test after work today. I knew the water change statement was wrong. Since my Nitrite lvl is at 0.1 should I do a water change and try to get that at 0? My last filter cleaning I did use tap water. I used the spray gun to get all the dust, dirt, slim, and plant leaves out of the foam. I replaced the Floss and Purigen, and added the Phos-x. That was ummm Tuesday. I dont plan on touching the canister for a while. The only reason I went nuts with the cleaning was all the dirt/particles that was trapped everywhere inside the filter from the substraite.
 
When I change water I add tap water to my bucket. I add Seachem 7.0 Buffer to buffer it to 7.0. Little Aqua Plus mix it up and pour it in.

The Ph out of the tap is 7.6 I dont not know what the KH is. I will test that tonight too..

I started using the buffer cause my GH was realy low(1). It wasnt holding the PH stable. My PH was always 7.6 until adding plants. Then it dropped realy quick to somewhere under 6.0. Fish didnt like that at all! So now that I use the buffer the PH stays at 7 and my GH went up to 6. I believe my KH went from 1 to 3 since also. I started doing this about a month ago.
 
Last edited:
if it was soley a greenish cloud I would agree with Roan Art. The "brown algae" is definitely indicative of a nutient surplus that the plants need to consume better than the algae. My guess is Roan Art's suggestion solves part of the problem.

Stop using the Brite N Clear. It is a band aid not a solution.

It may be the dust from the flourite getting stirred (that is usually a cloud with a red or pink tint though).

It may be a calcium precipitate--that is usually a whitish cloud.

It may be excessive nutrients causing a bloom of bacteria other than the denitrifying bacteria required for the conversion of ammonia and nitrites. There are forms of heterotrophic aerobic bacteria that feed on decaying organic matter in your tank. The janitors in your tank.

My bet is that be a combination of several things going together to create your "grey" cloud. Overstocking, excessive organic material in the water column, a bit of an algae thing, and substrate stirring.

As someone else mentioned, your tank is way overstocked--regardless of size of fish and filtration. Get the bigger tank now--not at some future point--or rehome some of the fish (bala sharks. clown loaches, heck almost everyone of those guys needs something substantially larger than a 29 gallon tank to develop properly). The waste generated by the food and the fish certainly contibute to the issues.

I would rehome the fish. Get fish appropriate for a 29. Kick water changes up to 50% weekly at a minimum. Avoid fish that will stir the substrate given the flourite. Maybe add otos or bristlenoses to work the "brown algae issue".

GAC is not really required in a filter. Especially if you are in the habit of weekly, large volume water changes. Could save yourself some money to spend on other things.

You are turning the water 9-10 times an hour given the combination of internal and external filters. Could it be that the Fluval 2 is contributing to stirring of the substrate and generating "dust"?

The solution to this problem is not more filtration. It is in properly stocking and adding to the size and frequency of water changes.

What is the pH, gh, and kh of the water coming from the tap? Test it after giving it 24 hours to allow degassing.
 
infidsg35 said:
When I change water I add tap water to my bucket. I add Seachem 7.0 Buffer to buffer it to 7.0. Little Aqua Plus mix it up and pour it in.

The Ph out of the tap is 7.6 I dont not know what the KH is. I will test that tonight too..

I started using the buffer cause my GH was realy low(1). It wasnt holding the PH stable. My PH was always 7.6 until adding plants. Then it dropped realy quick to somewhere under 6.0. Fish didnt like that at all! So now that I use the buffer the PH stays at 7 and my GH went up to 6. I believe my KH went from 1 to 3 since also. I started doing this about a month ago.
I would recommened highly that you stop buffering the pH down to 7.0. It causes instability and it could be affecting your KH as well.

Most likely when your pH dropped down to 6, it was because your KH was reduced to 0. Your biofilter needs a source of bicarbonate to survive and reproduce, without that you compromise your biofilter. This is usually referred to as a "pH crash".

My tap water pH is 7.4-7.8 with 1-3 dKH (depending on the time of year). In order to make your tank safe for CO2 injection you really need to add crushed coral and/or aragonite sand to your filter to bring the KH and pH UP, not down.

Once you add the coral, add a level tsp of baking soda mixed with a gallon of tank water to your tank. This should increase your KH to at least 5 as a temporary measure and provide stability until you do another waterchange. Don't use baking soda as a long-term solution, however.

Start injecting the CO2 again and keep an eye on your pH and KH levels. I suggest monitoring them at least daily. I check mine every morning, noon and night when first establishing a tank on a CO2 system or after I make a major change in bubble rate.

The addition of CO2 to any tank will cause a drop in pH. As the PH drops below 7.0, the coral will dissolve into the water column and buffer the KH up, preventing pH crashes and providing a "permanent" cushion for your tank.

Once the coral starts to dissolve and the KH climbs above 5 (or wherever the baking soda landed you), stop using the baking soda during waterchanges. The KH from the coral will hold during changes and provide stablility.

Fish will adjust to change in pH. What they cannot adjust to are sudden changes and TDS.

The only other thing I would mention is the bioload problem. Certainly look at trimming the fish out of your tank. You'll find it far easier to manage everything without such a massive load on the system.

Roan
 
Overstocking is a true and all but explain LFS tanks. They are WAY WAY WAY overstocked. They have clear water with lots of healthy fish.

All my fish are small 1.5 inches right now. Except Rope, Eel, and Bala's are a little bigger.

My fish all get along GREAT. They swim freely around the tank. No-one is territorial. The Pictus's, Loach, and Eel all have there own hiding places. No-one looks stressed.

Because of the bio-load thats why I do 2 20-25% water changes a week. I have a 55 right now waiting to be set up. But dont have the room right this second. Prolly within the month.

I feed the fish sparingly so no food get wasted, also to control there growth.

Thanx for all your help and idea's so far.
 
Roan Art- How much crushed coral? A small bag full? Where in the canister should it go? Or should I put it in the Fluval 2+? Ill run all my tests today and post them from tank water and tap.

Ill get the crushed coral as a buffer. Im planning on doing a water change this weekend.
 
infidsg35 said:
Roan Art- How much crushed coral? A small bag full? Where in the canister should it go? Or should I put it in the Fluval 2+? Ill run all my tests today and post them from tank water and tap.

Ill get the crushed coral as a buffer. Im planning on doing a water change this weekend.
Socks are good :)
For my first tank (36g bowfront) I stole one of my husband's socks, put a couple of handfuls of aragonite sand/coral in it, and stuck it behind the cartridge in the Penguin. Worked great.

With my 75gs, I use a sock in my biological filter (Emporer 400) and a ¼" layer of coral in my Eheim 2026 (mechanical filteration).

Just a note: rinse the coral before you add it, but it will still blow white into your tank the first time you start up. That will go away in an hour or so.

The other benefit of using coral is that it adds calcium to your tank. Great for plants and invertes!

Roan
 
OK Test are in!

Wow over the last 3 days my levels changed ALOT!!!!

In Tank:

NitrIte = 0.2
NitrAte = 5.0
CO2 = 8
PH = 6.8
Ammonia = 0.25
GH = 4
KH = 1

Out of the Tap:

KH = 0
GH = 2
PH = 7.6

Looks like im in desporate need of a water change... I bought some Crushed Coral that I will use instead of the Buffer.
 
AquariaCentral.com