Tank With Just Plants - CO2 Rate?
- Thread starter Roan Art
- Start date
I don't know what the max uptake is. My understanding is that the 30-35 ppm is the max for fish/shrimp/etc. - and some sensitives will be a bit lethargic at that, but do adapt.
There is mucho debate but precious little data going on right now about measuring CO2. APD, APC, and I assume the other plant tank areas are running a bit warm on the topic.
There is mucho debate but precious little data going on right now about measuring CO2. APD, APC, and I assume the other plant tank areas are running a bit warm on the topic.
That's what my understanding was, too, but couldn't remember where I read it.RTR said:
Hrm hrm. Well, at some point the water has to become overstaturated with CO2 to the point where it can't hold anymore, no?
I'll check around and see what I can come up with. I'm pretty sure that 366 ppm is a wee tad more than the plants can use
Roan
I'm running my tank at around 45 ppm daytime levels right now. The fish and shrimp seem fine.
I've read of people on various boards having their CO2 at high levels. Sometimes near or above 100 ppm if I remember right. I'm not sure how high the CO2 has to be before it stops making a difference though.
Aren't you going to go through your CO2 pretty quick at 350+ ppm?
I've read of people on various boards having their CO2 at high levels. Sometimes near or above 100 ppm if I remember right. I'm not sure how high the CO2 has to be before it stops making a difference though.
Aren't you going to go through your CO2 pretty quick at 350+ ppm?
Got pics?
Myriophyllum tuberculatum
Broader pic:
Far left, front: Pogostemon stellatus (pinkish color), tuberculatum, vallisneria caulescens
Back: Limnophila sesiliflora, Rotalla wallichii (hard to see), vallisneria natans
Also in this tank: Blyxa Aubertii, Blyxa japonica
Remember, this isn't a "planted tank" it's just holding my plants until they get acclimated to my water. I will be transplanting most of them out over the course of the next few weeks.
Yes, the bubbles are CO2
Roan
Myriophyllum tuberculatum
Broader pic:
Far left, front: Pogostemon stellatus (pinkish color), tuberculatum, vallisneria caulescens
Back: Limnophila sesiliflora, Rotalla wallichii (hard to see), vallisneria natans
Also in this tank: Blyxa Aubertii, Blyxa japonica
Remember, this isn't a "planted tank" it's just holding my plants until they get acclimated to my water. I will be transplanting most of them out over the course of the next few weeks.
Yes, the bubbles are CO2
Roan
Away wi' yah, too!Captain Hook said:I'm running my tank at around 45 ppm daytime levels right now. The fish and shrimp seem fine.
I've read of people on various boards having their CO2 at high levels. Sometimes near or above 100 ppm if I remember right. I'm not sure how high the CO2 has to be before it stops making a difference though.
Aren't you going to go through your CO2 pretty quick at 350+ ppm?
I turned it down, of course. I just wanted the fun and luxury of cranking it up and being able to say, "Yah, I tried that".
I read that:
1) some people have such high phosphates(?) in their tap that even at 100 ppm, they really aren't as high as their calculations say they are.
2) or their water for some reason doesn't "hold" the CO2 and they are pumping it in and right out.
I think ONE of those two is right, not sure which. Or perhaps a combination of the two. Hope someone can clarify.
Roan
That us in fact what the cuttent debate is about. The grids for pH/KH/CO2 assume that all alkalinity is bicarbonate and that there are no, repeat no, organic acids in the water. In some natural waters, at least the first of those conditions apply, in some the second may apply. With municipal water system water and established tanks with fish, plants, and with myriad supplements, it would be the rare case for both to apply, but frequently the two are not far enough off to make the grid worthless. Unfortunately, for many folks' tanks, the grid is a dream, giving a meaningless numbers.
At the moment, perhaps the most realistic reading is be taking the pH of the tank, collecting a sample of the water and allowing it to age 24 hours and then checking that sample pH. If there is a log difference (one full pH step, say pH 7.0 in the tank, 8.0 in the 24 hour sample), then you had ~30 ppm CO2 in the tank at the measure the previous day.
This requires high accuracy from the tests, so a calibrated pH probe is about the only effective device for such tests.
At the moment, perhaps the most realistic reading is be taking the pH of the tank, collecting a sample of the water and allowing it to age 24 hours and then checking that sample pH. If there is a log difference (one full pH step, say pH 7.0 in the tank, 8.0 in the 24 hour sample), then you had ~30 ppm CO2 in the tank at the measure the previous day.
This requires high accuracy from the tests, so a calibrated pH probe is about the only effective device for such tests.
Last edited:
Nice pics! Those plants have some awesome colours, hopefully they stay that way. Your Pogostemon stellatus (I think) has a beautiful light purple colour to it. The red in the Myriophyllum tuberculatum is also nice.
Here's a thread I've been reading on APC that has a couple people that mention they consistently keep their tanks at 170 and 200 ppm, with fish!
Discussion about a new way of measuring CO2 based on the pH's change from its starting point
Here's a thread I've been reading on APC that has a couple people that mention they consistently keep their tanks at 170 and 200 ppm, with fish!
Discussion about a new way of measuring CO2 based on the pH's change from its starting point
