TDS - how high can it go?

Jannika

MTS Survivor
Mar 17, 2010
1,498
0
36
N. California
I was looking for an instant-read thermometer and found a device that also measures TDS, supposedly within 2% accuracy. Probably more useful for someone with RO water, but after seeing the results, an RO unit might be a good investment. Any recommendations on a good one?

Tap 610
Fridge 601 No more useless $30 filters to buy
20H - 690
20L - 808
55 - 1130 - Cichlid tank with lots of rock, but this seems incredibly high. I did a 50% water change and it was still over 1000.

Another question is, if I wanted to use 1/2 RO water, how gradual should the change be?
 
I assume you're measuring ppm?

Mine here in Cleveland OH, Lake Erie water....
Tap 130ppm, tanks 153-198. The 90 with the high bioload was 198.

Our water here is considered moderately hard, ~8 grains, I believe.

Dont have a test kit right now (tossed all my expired ones) so i can't give you a GH/KH reading. PH is 7.6-7.8

FWIW, the fridge filter is carbon...removes large particles and bad tastes, but not much solids. Invest $100 or so in a "canister" cartridge style water filter and you'll pay a lot less for better carbon cartridges...


I'm wondering if your TDS meter (or mine) is out of cal.....
 
could be something in the tank in the cichlid tank raising the tds.

personally i got mine off ebay. at the time it was the best deal i could fine. a good place too is http://www.thefilterguys.biz/index.htm

i would start with a smaller percent of ro each wc and work your way up. one thing with ro is you will need a storage container to hold the water.
 
I should have specified those readings were ppm. The more I think about it, though, I'm not sure I want to change anything. It doesn't seem to bother the fish.
 
Many fish can handle around 1000 TDS or even higher just fine (you just don't want to move them to water with drastically different TDS without acclimation. So actually you don't want to quickly lower the TDS on your cichlid tank just because you freaked out about the measurement. Do it slowly, if at all. If high nitrates are leading to the high TDS measurement (which they can), then do water changes to lower the nitrates specifically).

Those numbers are pretty normal for people that have hard high alkalinity tap water.
The main reason we worry about TDS is with acclimation because a quick change in it can cause osmotic stress on your fish.
As far as long term housing in water with a specific TDS measurement, this is mostly a worry when trying to spawn because eggs and fry may be sensitive to a certain level. Some species, even as adults, may be more sensitive to high TDS levels, so you need to take the specific species into account when considering what levels are appropriate. You can't really generalize for all fish. If you're fish are doing fine and you've never had problems I actually would not worry too much about it.

TDS itself is a measure of various components (metals, salts, nitrates, etc.), so unless you have something specifically harmful to your fish leading to high TDS that measurement itself means nothing to you as far as long term housing unless it's on the extreme high end (and yours is not necessarily).

One thing the meter may be helpful for, is using it to measure your tap water when you do water changes. The TDS can fluctuate and if you get an extremely different reading than in tank you may want to do several smaller water changes instead of one large one, as it would be less stressful to your fish.
Or if you get new fish that are in water with an extremely different measurement you may want to give them a longer acclimation time.
 
Last edited:
Our City tap well water is very hard here 650 to 750 PPM. As long as it doesn't start getting over 1100 my fish still do OK but at 1300 they start acting funny, breather harder and less active, sitting one one spot quietly between feeding. My TDS increase past tap water are primarily due to replacing evaporated water levels with more tap water. I once used RO to cut it but it was too expensive so now I use better techniques. I now seal up every open area on top my tanks including the sump tank openings with 3/8" neoprene floor padding which is semi rigid but easily cuts with scissors for an almost gas tight seal. The difference is like night and day. Im now losing 1/4 the amount of water through evaporation I once did which is like replenishing with RO since RO or evaporation is the same thing, so controlling evaporation has drastically decease my TDS which is now much more manageable and remains below 900 PPM for 6 weeks between 50% water changes. If water changes are not putting a dent in your TDS you must have a source of fine waste hiding in your tank gravel, sand, canister or sump. My TDs always drops significantly after a waterchange.
 
I feel better after reading your posts - I guess my TDS isn't as bad as I first thought it to be, though I'll be sure to keep an eye on it.

The tank with the high numbers <i>does</i> have a lot of evaporation too.
 
I agree with what everyone else has said, the first tank seems well within a normal amount of TDS rise. The second is a bigger jump than I see but I start with a lower tap TDS, might be time for a water change. Is the big tank an african tank that you might want hard water in? Do you add salt, ferts, minerals (leeching rocks) or have a lot of tannins?

A TDS meter is a useful especially for acclimating new fish or trying to breed soft water species but I think consistant is important as RFG said, avoid big changes. Tap water is much easier than constantly trying to get it "right".
 
Is the big tank an african tank that you might want hard water in? Do you add salt, ferts, minerals (leeching rocks) or have a lot of tannins?

Yes, it's an African tank with lots of rock, wood and a big piece of cork bark that probably contributes. Tried some java ferns but they tore 'em up, so no more ferts.

It's a great little gadget for only $22.
 
AquariaCentral.com