Tests for a Walstad

i would imagine the tds would almost bottom out long before it rises... "mineralizing the soil"... it's common for ph to drop pretty good at the beginning of such tanks (including those that use soil, peat, ada as)...

once it's where you want it, then i'd top off with r/o, distilled, rain... if necessary.

el natural has it's own set of variables. water changes are quite infrequent compared to other methods.

kh/gh can swing over time with no ill-effects. it's instant changes or going too far altogether, that can be devastating. water changes can be done on any system for different end results. if gh/kh is the reason, filter maintenance, vacuuming debris...

i don't think nitrate tests are usually necessary for responsible keepers and co2 should only need be if you're injecting. as well co2 tests can have skewed results the same as any other test if not more. i would still test. at the very least, until things seem settled. knowing what's going on can only help in your success. **** does happen...

i use a saltwater calcium test kit. it gives results. tom uses the good stuff, lamotte, maybe... idk. should be pricey but accurate.
 
plants grow slower because of less light,
I don't understand again (lol). Why do they have less light?

Fishvixen, that sounds AWESOME! I can't wait to do mine. What readings do you test for? Do you test for iron too? I'm wondering if I should get a test for that.

Dun, what test kit do you use? API?

I have well water. All my fishes seem to do extremely well in it. I never have to add anything to it except for a little sodium bicarbonate and Kent's calcium for my shrimp. I even can water my orchids and other temperamental plants with it without any build ups or ill effects.
 
i might be mistaken, i thought that the natural tanks used natural light. i thought that they were placed in front of a south facing window or something.

sorry if i'm confused and messing up your thread
 
yeah, i dont know where that came from. i found that magazine that i thought i had read it in (tropical fish hobbyist - november '09) diana walstad wrote an articlce there and said absolutely nothing about what i just said.
 
Lol. It's okay. I imagine things all the time too. And I'm not crazy :/
 
I don't understand again (lol). Why do they have less light?

Dun, what test kit do you use? API?

I have well water. All my fishes seem to do extremely well in it. I never have to add anything to it except for a little sodium bicarbonate and Kent's calcium for my shrimp. I even can water my orchids and other temperamental plants with it without any build ups or ill effects.
about the light and maybe a couple other things that might come up... this isn't exactly, 100% going to be a walstad tank. there will be differences obviously when you start adding things like more filtration, water changes, column ferts, etc., etc..

seems more along the lines of a t. barr low-tech/non-co2 tank, really. in this event the rules of how you get there are really your own as long as you provide everything necessary. you can add co2 slightly or through excel, add filtration to keep things a bit cleaner, add water column ferts to make up for what the sediment lacks instead of having to know the exact makeup of your soil, etc., etc.... so, lighting doesn't have to be limited. however, done right you will be increasing growth and maintenance vs. not adding ferts and extra light most likely.

yes, mine is an api hobby kit, unfortunately. :shakehead:

sounds like you have some soft, fine, tasty well water. :omg: must be nice. :cry: my water's soft, but not that clean...
 
I could bottle my water and sell it, it's that good! And it's probably closer to real spring water than many of the companies claim theirs' are. Only mine is an underground spring. Which still counts... Technically...
 
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