the infamous 5 gallon diy canister filter. can it be done????

Interesting, I have never seen a five gallon bucket with a screw on lid, that would have potential indeed, the only drawback would be that any plumbing threw the lid would have to be centered, but still very doable..........
the screw on lid would have to be rated for pressure for it to work properly unless you would like to install liquid pipe thread of Teflon tape each time lid was removed. you can also use the barb fitting and the flex line and disconnect from the lid from there to allow it to rotate bu it would also require a external pump or one mounted to the lid with the output hose centered perfectly to remove the lid
 
One thing to consider is that your metal J hook bolts end points may apply too much pressure and ware to the plastic lid during run time if any vibration no matter how small, as metal has a tendency to ware through plastic parts at rub points.

I think you have the right idea but need to find a more purpose built canister. You should look in CL or garage sales for a used or worn out wet/dry shop vac canister which is basically also a plastic bucket but much more strongly constructed especially the lid and seal, and if it comes with wheels you will have the first pull along canister filter.
 
does the pump on the bottom push the water up through the filter media, squeeze it against the lid and then out of the hole on the top? how about a redesign that pulls the water through the filter media and directly out of a fitting at the top of the lid. i imagine that this would cause much less presure on the lid and you wouldnt need to seal that thing down quite as well.

The pump has little to do with the pressure, it is the weight of the water in the display tank exerting pressure when the container is below the tank.
 
does the pump on the bottom push the water up through the filter media, squeeze it against the lid and then out of the hole on the top? how about a redesign that pulls the water through the filter media and directly out of a fitting at the top of the lid. i imagine that this would cause much less presure on the lid and you wouldnt need to seal that thing down quite as well.
you would think that it would be less pressure on the lid but it is not. being under the tank the intake line creates so much pressure because of its height
and i do have the bucket and pump set up as to have the pump pull water in the top of the bucket threw the filter media and up threw a tube on the inside of the bucket. more pics later will reveal this as i put the new pump and substrate in.
 
the screw on lid would have to be rated for pressure for it to work properly unless you would like to install liquid pipe thread of Teflon tape each time lid was removed.

No you would just need an O ring, the catch would be how fine the thread was on the bucket seal............It would perform just like the O ring on an Omni house filter...
 
One thing to consider is that your metal J hook bolts end points may apply too much pressure and ware to the plastic lid during run time if any vibration no matter how small, as metal has a tendency to ware through plastic parts at rub points.

I think you have the right idea but need to find a more purpose built canister. You should look in CL or garage sales for a used or worn out wet/dry shop vac canister which is basically also a plastic bucket but much more strongly constructed especially the lid and seal, and if it comes with wheels you will have the first pull along canister filter.
I am in agreeance with you on this issue. yet still not in my goal to use a diffrent container i will take this into consideration upon my next modification to the bucket and keep you posted after this build is complete and thoroughly tested.
 
The pump has little to do with the pressure, it is the weight of the water in the display tank exerting pressure when the container is below the tank.
im no scientist, mathematician, or physicist but can you please post some information to prove that statement? If the tank is going to force, for example, 35psi into the canister which will put a certain amount of pressure into the lid shouldnt a properly matched pump that is placed above the filter media to suck the water out of the canister remove the majority of the pressure being forced against the lid of the cansiter? In short, it will remove the water from the bucket before it has time to create a few PSI against the lid.
 
No you would just need an O ring, the catch would be how fine the thread was on the bucket seal............It would perform just like the O ring on an Omni house filter...
agen agreeing with you but the omni filter is rated for pressure and has a lip and a seat for the o ring therefor last statement sill stands true
 
what a creative way to secure the lid. i've been thinking about setting one of these up for my pond for a while now, seeing this might finally motivate me to find time to do it
 
agen agreeing with you but the omni filter is rated for pressure and has a lip and a seat for the o ring therefor last statement sill stands true

Like I said I have not seen one of these bucket and said it has "potentail" as for your argument, the same can be said for your bucket as well.....

im no scientist, mathematician, or physicist but can you please post some information to prove that statement? If the tank is going to force, for example, 35psi into the canister which will put a certain amount of pressure into the lid shouldnt a properly matched pump that is placed above the filter media to suck the water out of the canister remove the majority of the pressure being forced against the lid of the cansiter? In short, it will remove the water from the bucket before it has time to create a few PSI against the lid.


Problem is they are never designed that way and for good reason. The siphon flow will always exceed that of the rated pump output, otherwise you run the risk of your pump running dry, cavatation, etc. It will allevaite some of the pressure, just not all of it.
 
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