if you have 35 psi at the lid and you have a resistor(filter media) the liquid would be able to flow faster threw the tube than it would the media. therefore creating your 35 psi agen. and i mean even if you over did it on you pump psi who wants 35 psi flowing directly into there tank with a 3/4 inch diameter pipe. maybe if you had trout.
the infamous 5 gallon diy canister filter. can it be done????
- Thread starter iamvictor2k
- Start date
CWO4GUNNER
USN/USCG 1974-2004 Weps
To a point your correct that a strong pump (600 GPH & head of 6Ft) does place negative pressure (vacuum) in opposition to the hydraulic positive pressure of the tank IF the canister is placed below the tank.
But here is the big rub and why its so very important to have a thick and strong canister with walls and lid that don't breath in and out like a bellows. Between the time that a canister pump is on and then shut down (power out, maintenance) the canister takes a big hit in pressure change. This pressure change can brake the seal on a DIY canister.
For example the FX5 under my 244 gallon aquarium has such a powerful pump and creates so much negative pressure against the tank that while running it crates negative pressure in the water and pull air out of solution a few tiny bubbles at a time and at the end of 24 hours shuts down the pump automatically for 2 minutes. When this happens you can hear an avalanche of water rushing in to fill the canister void crated by the accumulated air and you can feel the canister walls and lid slightly expand but not deform.
But this is the exception to the rule as almost all canister filter pumps only exert a fraction of the water pressure the tank places on a canister beneath it.
ok I went and got a pump that i thought would work and it would have worked but its so frekin loud that you would have to wear earplugs just to view the tank so any suggestions would be awesome.
CWO4GUNNER
USN/USCG 1974-2004 Weps
That's unusual since most submersible pumps are pretty quiet unless there is a malfuction or the impeller is hitting something. Of course if its a washing machine pump I have no idea.
Post the U-tube Video and lets see it.
Post the U-tube Video and lets see it.
You make a good point. That's Why you see a lot of people with a bad seal saying that their canister leaks when it is turned off.
CWO4GUNNER
USN/USCG 1974-2004 Weps
The nails were just there as temp solution to try and tighten up the lid more without getting out the wrench. But in reality an under cabinet canister and lid should be strong enough to only require a few hold down supports at most. If a canister lid requires more due to deforming, its simply isn't strong enough to take the pressure.
I don't mind admitting that mine was the same way working great for months next to and only 7 inches below the tank "top" waterline (only 2 PSI), but would start to leak if placed below 15 inches of the "top" waterline, and terribly hemorrhage water if placed on the floor 50 inches below the "top" waterline.
So I have no doubt your canister will work next to the tank, just like an HOB requires no pressure seal. But a floor canister below a tanks requires the ability to support all the water pressure that tank exerts, just like the tanks itself.
http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=202122&highlight=diy+canister
http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=191499&highlight=lock&page=3
I don't mind admitting that mine was the same way working great for months next to and only 7 inches below the tank "top" waterline (only 2 PSI), but would start to leak if placed below 15 inches of the "top" waterline, and terribly hemorrhage water if placed on the floor 50 inches below the "top" waterline.
So I have no doubt your canister will work next to the tank, just like an HOB requires no pressure seal. But a floor canister below a tanks requires the ability to support all the water pressure that tank exerts, just like the tanks itself.
http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=202122&highlight=diy+canister
http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=191499&highlight=lock&page=3
Last edited:
i understand that you keep saying that the canister if placed under the tank will have to support all the pressure of the tank and that the canister has to with hold pressure like the tank. this simply isnt true. to prove my point get out your gravel siphon cleaner place a 5 gallon bucket on the floor and siphon it into the bottom of the bucket. if your statement is true then there would be no way that you could put your thumb over the hose and stop the water flow. and i know that i dont have to lift the hose above tank level to stop the flow of the water with my thumb. i have a 55 gallon tank and the pressure from that would not allow my finger to hold it. is this a true statement? please provide descriptive information to prove if not.
i dont know if you are under the impression that the blots go into the bucket. none of the bolts actually go inside the bucket. no water contact will be made with the bolts. the J blots go threw the lip on the bucket and secure the lid to its mating surface. it is tightened by washers and nuts on the bottom of the lip. the straight blots are to apply even pressure around the lip and not allow the lid to break its seal. later will be able to replace the straight blots with one thick piece of metal with 4 to 6 holes drilled in them to lessen the about of j bolts to loosen and tighten. its a temperary solution to a permanent problem of the lid being able to buckle and bend under pressure. the pressure created by the water in the line. the hire the tube the more pressure created weather in the tank or out.
