Thick green slimy algae

what's your lighting situation like now? My tank used to be covered with the stuff and a good few days w/o the light and some flourish has my tank nice and neat. (i know this is a RARE case) it worked for me... believe me...i freaked out too. people have had mixed results with different solutions so work your way up to the more "drastic" ones

definitely check your water parameters and make sure you have good water circulation as others have noted. above all good luck!
 
I am new to the forums here, but have been an aquarium keeper for probably 10 years. I just recently got this in my 20 gallon planted community tank. I believe that I got it from a mixture of the wrong spectrum of light plus poor water circulation and a spike of poor quality . I had an issue over Christmas break when I went to visit my parents and in-laws. Due to the fact that I have no timer for my light I had to have my lights turned off for the week. All my plants died from the lack of light. I believe this caused a spike of poor water quality that was remedied after a while. I typically do 20% weekly water changes and my water quality has always been good other then this situation. As a result of my plant die off this stuff started forming in the areas where I have low circulation in the tank. At first I thought it was typical algae, but after looking into it I believe it is a bacteria which makes the shrimp/snails/algae eaters not want to touch it.

Anyway, the way I got rid of it, is by shutting the lights off and not feeding the fish for 3 days. This was not enough time for my plants or fish to die. I would do my typical 20% water changes but twice a week. I caught this early but once it got a foothold about 1/5 of the tank was covered with the slime. It took me about 4 cycles of 3 days off/no food - 2 days on - 3 days off with 1/2 food until it finally went away. Make sure you keep up with water changes when you go through this because when the stuff dies, it can cause your water quality to get way out of line. It worked for me, good luck to you.
 
I have this problem right now in my 55g. I bought some cheap bulbs offline for my coralife light, and now that green algae filled everything, I even have the beard algae on my plants. I just changed out my lighting back to the previous lights, hopefully it will help, but I am going to try Blitzkriegers suggestion too. After changing the lights to the coralife fixtures with the cheap bulbs, ironically all my plants did better for only a few days, then they started dying from all the algae.
 
Cyanobacteria... been around for millions of years and pissing off tank owners =).

That stuff can be nuked out (antibiotics) but the root problem is still there.

Abundance of Nitrate and Phosphate will promote its growth.. just like algae...photosynthesis feeds it also.

The best way to prevent it is to keep phosphates (If non planted tank) at 0ppm and of course the obvious nitrates way down.

Having lots of flow can prevent stagnant areas ...since cyano doesnt stick to areas very well..once foothold though they stay pretty well.

Since you fresh water tank users use tap water...that can be a source of the foods required to push its growth...

Get your hands on phosphate removing media... watch your PH cause it does affect it some on the break in.

And...siphon out what you can....

if you really want to punch cyano in the mouth ... water change with RO water and have those freshwater salts on hand to put in that water..its stripped of all the bad things and good trace elements...changing out with that ...siphon... and phosphates being at 0ppm...that stuff wont last.

Before doing all this stuff i listed.

Check Nitrate and Phosphate ...the readings will be lower than it really is due to that stuff feeding on it to... but seeing 10ppm really means there is a lot more than that...
So if you see readings of like 80ppm of Nitrate..you can imagine how much higher it really is =)

its a common issue in marine... natural way to deal with it is reducing what it feeds on..takes a bit of time as you have to siphon out what does appear...but once foods are gone..it recedes.

good luck..sorry about the Cyano outbreak.


BGA is more of a bacterial infection than an algea problem. (as stated above)
I had it covering about 1/2 of the substrate in my 125. I tried blackouts, and ferts, nothing worked. The ONLY way I got rid of it, and rid of it for good, was to use 1/2 dose of Maracyn for about 4 days. It hasnt been back since, and has been gone for over a year. So if you have it, and want it gone, the only sure fire thing I can suggest is treating it with antibiotics.
 
BGA is more of a bacterial infection than an algea problem. (as stated above)
I had it covering about 1/2 of the substrate in my 125. I tried blackouts, and ferts, nothing worked. The ONLY way I got rid of it, and rid of it for good, was to use 1/2 dose of Maracyn for about 4 days. It hasnt been back since, and has been gone for over a year. So if you have it, and want it gone, the only sure fire thing I can suggest is treating it with antibiotics.

http://www.ucmp.berkeley.edu/bacteria/cyanointro.html

Some info about cyano... Thanks for the input I am very aware of it being bacterial..but its not just bacterial. Its a hybrid algae bacteria.

And in marine dear god do we have to battle this thing often. Thanks to our lighting.

The Nuke (medication) does work. And I don't deny it does. It is a temporary fix. And I believe you had did some maintenance on the tank the contributed to keeping it gone.

To treat for it with antibiotics is fine. I also know from lots of experiences with other tanks that it can be handled without the use of antibiotics. The combination of (red slime remover for marine) and my advise and parameters is a one two punch to the mouth on that stuff. Sometimes I had to help another marine users tank this way cause his problem was so bad.

The blackouts probably had it reduce but soon as lights hit it came back didn't it? (before medication) The root problem you resolved by maintenance and you dealt with the initial symptoms with the antibiotics.


I know for sure that cyano can be kept at bay with holding very strict water parameters. Nonplanted tanks can do it easyer than planted. The reduction of Phosphate to 0ppm and pushing nitrates so low that reading 10 or less will starve it out and holding those parameters will ensure no need of nukes =).

The root problems are usually this::::
A. Overfeeding ..not washing frozen foods off (phosphate heavy from juices).
B. Water sources being tap (phosphate heavy and or nitrate also)
C. Too long photoperiods
D. Poor tank maintenance in general which C falls into.
E. Lack of flow causing stagnant areas in the tank. (Detritus build up)

My usual treatments for problem tanks in my past and friends I have learned to not need to nuke anything unless its very very bad in rare instances.

1. Siphon out all you can
2. Huge water change using RO water
3. cutting back feeding and explaining the 5 min or less rule to them.
*5 min or less if food is still present you over fed*
4.Maintaining reduction of Phosphate
a. by using ro water
b. using phosban, rowaphos media

5. Improving flow positioning or adding to it.

That right there nips it in the bud every time. And with my new reef tank I have yet to even see it even appear.

I even tested out my tank. I purchased some LPS coral from a store that didn't have good salt knowledge. Saved it from its death... it was bleached and had cyano growing all over its body.

I placed it in my tank...next day all cyano not present. And it was turning green again (the bleached parts).

I hold strict controls on phosphate. I do use Ro water I make. I control my feeding. And I also have a lot of flow 4 powerheads..

I know I am marine tank user and we have our differences. But we do share some things in common. Algae and Cyano problems...they are pretty much the same for us. So I figure I share how I battle with it and how other Marine users battle with it.

PS. Hopefully I didn't come off being perceived as condescending.I only want to share methods of battling that junk. I also dont disagree with your use of bacteria nukes.(meds). But if I can avoid using them and suggest it I would. Which i did. :):thm:
 
I have this stuff running all over a 5.5 gal shelly tank, just treated it with marine slime killer last night, hopefully that will give it a kick start to dieing. I know what my problem is... Too many babies! I was so excited to have them but didn't know that they would casuse such a problem. This is my only tank of 10 with this problem. Time to really stepup the H2O changes.
 
I have this stuff running all over a 5.5 gal shelly tank, just treated it with marine slime killer last night, hopefully that will give it a kick start to dieing. I know what my problem is... Too many babies! I was so excited to have them but didn't know that they would casuse such a problem. This is my only tank of 10 with this problem. Time to really stepup the H2O changes.

Fraya you may need to up your water changes for a bit. If you need a better water source (cause we know puget sound municipal water sucks), albertsons or safeway can get you some better water.

Indoor reef in tacoma or Aquarium Paradise in lakewood provide water to. The slime remover works...just be sure to keep those parameters in check..and be aware though you may kill it ...it will introduce decay of the organics and increase a food source for another colony to appear.

I hate the tap water in puget sound. It's incredibly phosphate heavy let alone nitrate. Tacoma uses that run off water...members of the puget sound reef club have had to change out RO membranes monthly in some areas... Like Kent... talk about dirty water...may meet drinking standards but sure is hell on our tanks...
 
ok thanks for all the responses, unfortunately its still covering most of my tank. ive been working on physically removing it. and now im gonna try the cycle of 3 days with no food and light then 2 on like that other guy said and keep up with huge water changes, is 50% twice a week too much?
 
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